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Anyone have tips on clearing paint off of mini's and breaking down glue? Ive got some horribly looking models I picked up (pre-painted) that I want to clear off back to "like-new" condition so I can start over.

kindest regards,

Plastic or metal? A lot depends on this distinction. Superglued parts can often be taken apart without too much damage, and you can use more aggressive paint strippers on metal.

Castrol Super Clean and Simple Green work good for all around removal of
paint and they don't damage plastic. i've soaked tanks in both for weeks and
had no issues.

Acetone if it's metal, and will also eat/weaken superglue.

hope that helps.

I recommend Simple Green for all of the above, metal or plastic. I have left plastic and metal in tubs of the stuff for a month, to no detriment. The best part is when you are done, you can just dump it down the sink. Although I still reuse mine, it doesn't seem to lose it's strength much at all.

Excellent! T hank you all so kindly.

Where can I get Simple Green?

The minis I want to work on have metal bodies, but plastic arms *I think*. I suppose replacing the arms isnt too big of an issue; Ill just buy bitz. But Im not sure if the bodies are indeed metal, some of them feel heavy enough, others don't :(

rogue_artist wrote:Excellent! T hank you all so kindly.

Where can I get Simple Green?

The minis I want to work on have metal bodies, but plastic arms *I think*. I suppose replacing the arms isnt too big of an issue; Ill just buy bitz. But Im not sure if the bodies are indeed metal, some of them feel heavy enough, others don't :(

Most major stores like target, walmart, meijer's, kmart.

it would either be in the auto section(it's a degreaser) or the cleaning supplies isle.

cost would be $10 for a gallon jug.

heck simple gren works as a laundry detergent booster as well. it got out some serious grease stains in my clothes.

I use this paint remover, and everything including glue is vanish in 2 hours



dunno if you have B&Q stores in the US though ...

Simple Green works so awesomely on METAL parts. Soak the parts for a few hours (12 usually does it, but Ive definetly had luck a lot sooner, like 2 or 3 hours), use a tough bristled brush, like a new toothbrush, and scrub it all off! I just used this on Dante's Jump Pack, and it looked as good as out-of-the-blister new!




Adios!

arg. nailpolish remover takes so LOOONG and its hard to get all the paint off, also the varnish. but it looks good once you've done it.

I use brake fluid on metals. Strips paint like nothing else (and the car parts place is closer than the hardware), but you do have to wear gloves as you realy don't want break fluid on your skin (chemicals can be absorbed through the skin and they willeffect your joints after a while).

What do you use for resin? I'm looking for something that won't dissolve superglue if possible.

simple green works best for me

Do the above products work for models that are varnished?

I've got a stack of old OK models from a few years back and they are begging me for a nice new fresh paint job.. :(

hhmmm... never heard of a B&Q in the US. But thank you for the suggestion.

Nail polish remover is probably a good alternative too, thank you. But I think Ill try the very formidably suggested Simple Green.

Dunno about break fluid The smell isnt something I want lingering in my studio.

Simple Green is the best. Just let it soak for a little bit, and paint just comes right off. You can get it at most department stores. I think Michaels carries it too.