Switch Theme:

Ungluing stuff  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel







I've just agreed to buy three pre-assembled sentinels from Mad Doc Grotsnik's Crypt Of Crap thread, which I want to loot for my orks for a planned conversion idea. Since it's for orks, I'm not too worried about damaging the models as long as it's only slight, but I wondered if anyone had any ideas about how to unglue models? I know I could use the hammer/dog/boot/hacksaw approach, but does anyone know of a subtler method that would work with minimal damage?

 
   
Made in us
Veteran Wolf Guard Squad Leader






Minneapolis

Plastic models that were assembled with polystyrene would need to be cut apart. The best tool in the history of ever is easily a Dremel rotary tool, its fairly cheap and i use it on everything.


The Carrion Corsairs - A Dark Eldar P&M Blog

Know thine enemy.
You are known to him already

* Sermon Primaris, the Ordo Xenos

 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Scyzantine Empire

I'd ask the Doc what kind of glue he used. Superglue breaks up after an overnight dip in Purple Power or (ick!) brake fluid, but FPS is dead on about polystyrene glue - commonly referred to as "model glue", "plastic glue", or "plastic weld". It pretty much melts the plastic peices together and has to be cut to separate.

Them's da brakes when buying used models, though. Some of the used guardians I picked up were useless for the conversions I actually bought them for for that very reason. It did, however, give me justification to buy a batch of new models...

What harm can it do to find out? It's a question that left bruises down the centuries, even more than "It can't hurt if I only take one" and "It's all right if you only do it standing up." Terry Pratchett, Making Money

"Can a magician kill a man by magic?" Lord Wellington asked Strange. Strange frowned. He seemed to dislike the question. "I suppose a magician might," he admitted, "but a gentleman never could." Susanna Clarke Jonathan Strange & Mr. Norrell

DA:70+S+G+M++B++I++Pw40k94-D+++A+++/mWD160R++T(m)DM+

 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Agreed with FearPeteySodes on the plastic glue. If however, the models were put together w/ a CA (Cyanoacrylic or 'superglue') then taking it apart will be lots easier. There are some of the strippers that will loosen up the CA glue that have previously been mentioned on these boards. Barring that, there is always putting the model in a freezer and then literally snapping the glued part off (Freezing makes the CA glue brittle IIRC). I like using a flat edged exacto blade and tapping it lightly into the joint, most parts will pop right off if you take your time with it.
   
Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel







Fair enough. Looks like it will be my trusty dremel of destruction then! Thanks for the tips.

 
   
Made in au
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine





Melbourne, Australia

If I need to take something apart, I often use a hobby knife thrust (carefully) into a crack and then twist. The torc can generally break the bonds, or at least break it along the bond for plastic glue.

There are 10 types of people in the world - those who understand binary, and those who don't.

My work in progress thread 
   
Made in gb
Horrific Hive Tyrant





London (work) / Pompey (live, from time to time)

good news: if its super glue you can use a small blade to getly break the seal and take it apart without damage.

bad news: if its plastic glue, then it will be a solid bond.

more good news: since plastic glue melts the plastic together it also makes it weaker, you should be able to cut down the glue line without any probs.

Suffused with the dying memories of Sanguinus, the warriors of the Death Company seek only one thing: death in battle fighting against the enemies of the Emperor.  
   
Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel







I guess when they arrive, I'll have more of an idea how best to separate them, but it's good to know that the dremel/knife trick should be able to do it.

 
   
Made in gb
Horrific Hive Tyrant





London (work) / Pompey (live, from time to time)

im forever buying stuff from friends
so allways taking it apart as soon as i get it.

plastic glue may have a strong hold as it is, but with a blade it cuts straight through it.

for a little test, find an old mini you dont need, drop some platic glue on it and leave it overnight.

in the morning take a blade to it and you will see how easy it is to cut through thanks to the glue breaking down its compound.

Suffused with the dying memories of Sanguinus, the warriors of the Death Company seek only one thing: death in battle fighting against the enemies of the Emperor.  
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Burtucky, Michigan

yea but if you end up doing the blade style, be REALLY careful. sometimes the plastic gives out easier then you think and youll do what I did once, pushed harder then I should of and the knife was stuck strait up in my knee..... not fun
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: