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Just wondering how many people use other types of glue as apposed to GW's? I personally use another brand because its cheaper!

ricekake87 wrote:Just wondering how many people use other types of glue as apposed to GW's? I personally use another vrand because its cheaper!

I use testor 's brush on plastic cement for plastics because its the best option.

I use zap a gap for metal to metal or plastic to metal .

GW's product? nono for me , only buy it if you find it convenient.

Zap-a-gap for just about everything

For plastic I use Tamiya Cement Extra Thin.

Revell Contacta Professional with the needle applicator for plastics.
Loctite Gel Control Superglue for metal, resin and mixed.

believe it or not i use $2 superglue with a 3mm hole...AND IT WORKS!!!

Testor's Polystyrene Cement for plastics, comes in a blue tube. Works great with the precision tips.

For metals+resin? Some Cyanoacrylate from the FLGS brand before it went under a bit back.

i use the 2 bottles for a dollar superglue i get at a place called fred's.

stuff works just as well as anything else i've used, and the bottles are a nice shape for scratchbuilding when they're empty

greenskin lynn wrote:i use the 2 bottles for a dollar superglue i get at a place called fred's.

stuff works just as well as anything else i've used, and the bottles are a nice shape for scratchbuilding when they're empty

yes exactly what i said...buy the cheap stuff, support china and destroy the environment the human way!ROCK!

well, in the grand scheme of glue, i can get one bottle of the namebrand stuff for 5 bucks, or 10 bottles of the dollar store stuff that works just as well (and the bottles are part of my plan to make more paint pot kans)

Loc-tite it works great and you can break arms off without any harm ......

swbruni wrote: Loc-tite it works great and you can break arms off without any harm ......

Doesn't sound like it 'works great' to me?

I use the Citadel Super Glue. It is just as good as regular super glue and is way cheaper.

The bottle is pricey but if you look at it as "price per ounce" the Citadel wins by a long shot.

I just buy little tubes of super glue at my local hardware store

If you have a "hobbytown" near you, they sell 1oz tubes of "maxi cure" for a couple of bucks each. One ounce will last me a realy long time, and you can buy this stuff in many different varieties; like thicker or thinner versions as well as versions with faster or slower dry times. They also sell a sprayable accelerator for it.

I use the Lok-tite gel control too. It's just so darn easy and pleasant to work with. Like a prior poster mentioned, you can crack it with enough shearing force without damaging anything as well. I imagine it will be inconvenient if one falls and lands wrong, but the ability to fix a mistake or change things around counterbalances that in my mind.

GW glue is some of the worst so as such I use three different glues depending on what I am doing. If it is plastics then I use testors cement as it melts the plastics together. If it is metals then I use zap a gap green label, and if it is fine metal pieces I use the pink label zap a gap.

I use gorilla super glue found at most hardware stores , I have used just about every glue and find this to be the best , it has a fast dry time has a very strong hold and for plastics it works great I don't like plastic glue cause If I want to change things when a new book comes out I can with out having too cut threw it . And if I do change things pulling it apart isn't that easy its just better than using plastic glue .

It costs around 5 bucks per bottle but you get a really big bottle for the cost .

slann wrote:I use gorilla super glue found at most hardware stores , I have used just about every glue and find this to be the best , it has a fast dry time has a very strong hold and for plastics it works great I don't like plastic glue cause If I want to change things when a new book comes out I can with out having too cut threw it . And if I do change things pulling it apart isn't that easy its just better than using plastic glue .

It costs around 5 bucks per bottle but you get a really big bottle for the cost .

Ive been putting models together since I was 8 (thats my conservative guess, so probably earlier). Gorilla Super glue is the best glue I have ever used to put together models as far as super glue goes. Zap-A-Gap is a close second but that stuff clogs like crazy and you never get to use more than half the bottle before it goes bad. Gorilla super glue on the other hand has a piece of wire about and 1/2 in long that keeps the nozzle clog free. I work at a hardware store and have tried every glue on the shelf. This is the best. I have dropped minis glued together with this stuff that I was all like, "oh great I gotta glue that whole dreadnaught or whatever back together but it stayed rock solid. Also for large surfaces Locktite brush on is good too.

I use E-6000. You can get it at Wal-Mart, $3 for a big tube. It's sort of thick and takes some practice to avoid making a mess, but it has a rock-hard hold. It also has a sort of slow initial set-up, so you have a chance to make fine adjustments before it's too late.

For plastic I use Testers plastic cement. There is really no contest for plastic.

For metal I use GW's super glue. I've tried epoxy, but it doesn't seem to hold as well and it is a pain to mix.

Revell contacta pro with needle for my plastics and for my metals I use vital bond superglue.

Both larger than GW counter parts and both a hella lot cheaper

I have used the 2-for$1 dollar store super glue, but dries slow and doesnt seem to work on metal for me. Also I have always had bad luck with the little bottles drying out after first use.

When given my preference I use the Bob Smith super glues and accellerant. It is superior to the dollar store stuff in every way, and actually comes out to roughly the same price per oz. when i buy it in the medium sized bottle.

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

For plastic I use Testors model cement in the orange tube. It's inexpensive, easy to find, and works very well.

For metal I use Duro brand super glue gel. I far prefer gel type super glue as it sets up much faster than the messy liquid type.

For my occasional white glue needs I use whatever brand of cheap school glue I can get in a bottle at the local Walmart. The bottle on my bench right now is Elmers.

Only a fool would use the GW glues as other brands are as good or superior, easy to obtain, and much, much cheaper.

TR

Zap A Gap for all my metal to metal and metal to plastic needs

I see alot of folks here (as well as amongst my local gaming groups) using Zap-a-Gap. Call me odd, but I don't like the stuff. I much prefer a gel glue to any liquid.

TR

I did use Zap-a-Gap exclusively before Lok-tite. It worked well enough and was definitely strong, but like a previous poster mentioned, it was a beast keeping it flowing.

Zap-a-Gap.

Cheap 'n Cheerful.

Weld-on Three for plastics.
Any old brand of super glue for metals.
4 Minute J-B Weld for large metal joins.

I have similar problems with Zap-a-Gap (tube gluing itself into a solid block), so I'm interested to give this Gorilla brand a try.

Any chance anyone can tell me what store they're buying it at?

Thanks!