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I think they are great, and they mean my reaper bones Kickstarter pile is getting attention again.

I've found one coat gives a pastel finish, and two gives a much bolder colour. A few details picking out with normal paint and results are good. Needs reasonable brush control otherwise you will be spending a lot of time tidying up, but they are a great tool for getting models I'm not fussed about individually done.

 timetowaste85 wrote:

 osjclatchford wrote:
Guys, come on now, I said "you could PROBABLY mix shade and colour to make your own"

The key word here is probably. I've not nor shall I try this.

It was an attempt at humor for dramatic effect. Not to be taken literally. I mean who would actually do that?

It’s because multiple people HAVE tried it, sounded smug about it, and generally showed off what amounted to be trash in comparison while sounding proud of themselves. So people have done what you’ve just suggested. And it generally sucks.

not surprised it sucks. is mental to even attempt it. daffy bastids! talk about waste of money!
twas unaware that this had actually happened...

and, you know, I'm not sure if that's funny or just plain sad! LOL

you'd have to be a bit of a self righteous, egotist to do that at all, to be brutal but honest.
at the end of the day if you want contrast, then buy contrast. I guess the point I was making really is that you should make sure you know what it really is you're getting first as I know many that buy first and regret later... and you what they say; 'regrets are a waste of good drinking time'...

I can say for certain that the Contrast paints let me make just as much of a mess of painting as they did when doing Base and Wash.

Tbh, I'm sure I'm doing something wrong, I mean apart from painting Imperial Fists that is, and just need more practice at it.

Because wash and done is still BS even with Contrast Paints?
I love the one's I have. But I have yet to use them to "paint" a model.

I love the snakebite leather, I use it as a controlled shade on leather, I then highlight.

I've used the aqua and the various blues and all of them have a purpose.. they are like extra useful "shade" washes but they stay where I want them like the Army painter ones.

For imperial fists there is a youtube video on the process to get a good version with the new shades. It is either of the yellows (depending if you want orange-tinged shadows or tan tinged shadows) you then finish up with regular yellow paint. It looks pretty damned good. But one and done? No way.

I accidentally got some light colored paint flecks (don't know how but whatever) on a finished part of a black-blue. I took the Leviadon Blue and.. fixed.

Their stay-put and stronger pigment open new options. I thinned mine with Vallejo Flow Aid and I got a great new ink wash...

Are they as "advertised"? No, not really. Not if you want a respectable army. Good enough to get em on the table top.. sure. But you don't just slop it on. You actually have to move it about with the brush and think about it as you do it.

The only demo video I saw was painting Ultramarines, and with that being a dark blue, it doesnt suffer as much but its also a little harder to see whats being done.

I'm certain I just need more practice at it.

Its going to be one or more of wrong brush, wrong amount of paint or improper application onto model.

For the Fists, i'll probably just stick with trying Averland with shade carefully applied to the grooves and inner edges of the pauldrons.

I’ve been using them to paint up a regiment of freeguild crossbow men as a test, and I’ve been flip-flopping on whether or not I like them. Getting good results out of them takes some practice, as applying them either too thickly or thinly will spoil the effect.

I had almost decided I didn’t like them, but then looking at my nearly tabletop-ready 10 man regiment that I had painted in only 3 hours, I was decidedly sold. Some of the colors are especially excellent, like Wyldwood, Darkoath Flesh and Skeleton Horde. Others, like Cygor Brown, definitely need to be thinned down to get reasonable results. But overall, I’ll definitely continue using them for speed painting, and I’ll add them to my arsenal for painted textured surfaces for more detailed work.

After having primed my Guardsmen grey, I decided to try Wraithbone highlight on the fatigues, then use the Contrast paint. Overall result is a darker red, but it's comparable to my regular paint job. It also works well over metallic paints; the guy on the right has the Aquillas painted with Ironbreaker and Stormhost Silver, then a layer of Snakebite leather. Easy brass effect.

I get the impression they're best suited to organic textures like skin and leather.

I cannot tell you how much I hate painting skin, for some reason, so I'm looking forward to picking up some fleshtone pots and going nuts on all the minis I've been putting off for that exact reason.

Nothing else bothers me, love painting uniforms and armour, it's just skin that drives me crazy so I don't care if it's any good so long as I can fire some on and get back to painting the stuff I like lol

I also have some stray poxwalkers I think you could generate some fun effects with easily, looking forward to experimenting with those.

Copied my comment from the N&R thread -

Tried out the red and yellow, as they're shades not covered by Army Painter Quickshades, and I'm sold.




https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/777075.page

Along with just slopping them on, they work quite well for more controlled touch-ups as well. Very impressed with just how good they are.

They won't completely replace Quickshades for me, as I like the control of the less opaque pigments in most of the Quickshades, but they're certainly fun.

I have to say, that's a far better yellow than I expected based on what I'd seen elsewhere.

That's over a silver base. Gives it a metallic sheen, but it's a nice, bright yellow.