Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

thanks for another great video!!

les i saw from some of your videos what brand or where did you buy those rotating Paint trays you have?

Nice video. I subscribed to you on youtube, whach mine they aren't about warhammer though. You area very good painter. What exactly are foundations paints and why do you use the airbrush paints with out the air brush.

Ravenum wrote:thanks for another great video!!

les i saw from some of your videos what brand or where did you buy those rotating Paint trays you have?

Thanks! I got them from thewarstore in the paint section under storage or something.
http://www.thewarstore.com/paintierpaintstorage.html

Pennywise wrote:Nice video. I subscribed to you on youtube, whach mine they aren't about warhammer though. You area very good painter. What exactly are foundations paints and why do you use the airbrush paints with out the air brush.

Thanks! Foundation paints are heavily pigmented paints. They are made to have good coverage and minimal transparency in less coats than regular paint. I use the airbrush paints because they are nice and have smaller pigment than the others, but just because it's called an airbrush paint doesn't mean it's not also fantastic when applied with a brush.

Ok, well they look great on the SM.

Hey Les,

I really enjoyed this tutorial and all your tutorials for that matter. I had a few questions on this one in specific that I was hoping you could answer. I was under the assumption that you sprayed your Vallejo varnishes through your airbrush before and after your washing step. I was wondering, did you thin the varnishes before spraying or are they good to go out of the bottle? Also, do you also use them as your final sealant varnish? If so, how do you like them?

I am trying my hand at some pre-heresy emperor's children and am very interested in your controlled wash technique you used in this video. I want a dark wash in the deep crevices/shadow areas but I am finding that if the wash gets anywhere I didn't want it, it darkens the VGC Royal Purple to nearly black. Thanks for the help!

OMG LES!! Lol didn't know you were a member.

Awesome video, great as always.

CicatrizESP33 wrote:Hey Les,

I really enjoyed this tutorial and all your tutorials for that matter. I had a few questions on this one in specific that I was hoping you could answer. I was under the assumption that you sprayed your Vallejo varnishes through your airbrush before and after your washing step. I was wondering, did you thin the varnishes before spraying or are they good to go out of the bottle? Also, do you also use them as your final sealant varnish? If so, how do you like them?

I am trying my hand at some pre-heresy emperor's children and am very interested in your controlled wash technique you used in this video. I want a dark wash in the deep crevices/shadow areas but I am finding that if the wash gets anywhere I didn't want it, it darkens the VGC Royal Purple to nearly black. Thanks for the help!

Thanks!

a. Varnish - Sprayed directly from the bottle not thinned. I use Krylon Matte Clear as the final varnish.
b. Trouble with Washes - pin washing (as my scale model buddies call it) that is shown here will fix the problem you were having. A couple coats of varnish will protect the model. But a water based varnish like the Vallejo stuff only allows a couple seconds of correcting flaws before the Alcohol eats through it and you risk damaging the paint under it. Solvent based Varnish (canned spray stuff that tells you to use in a ventilated area) will buy you more time.

Tazay wrote:OMG LES!! Lol didn't know you were a member.

Awesome video, great as always.

A member? Here on Dakka? Have been for a while, ever since I got back into the hobby I love it here hehe. And thanks for the compliment!

LBursley wrote:

CicatrizESP33 wrote:Hey Les,

I really enjoyed this tutorial and all your tutorials for that matter. I had a few questions on this one in specific that I was hoping you could answer. I was under the assumption that you sprayed your Vallejo varnishes through your airbrush before and after your washing step. I was wondering, did you thin the varnishes before spraying or are they good to go out of the bottle? Also, do you also use them as your final sealant varnish? If so, how do you like them?

I am trying my hand at some pre-heresy emperor's children and am very interested in your controlled wash technique you used in this video. I want a dark wash in the deep crevices/shadow areas but I am finding that if the wash gets anywhere I didn't want it, it darkens the VGC Royal Purple to nearly black. Thanks for the help!

Thanks!

a. Varnish - Sprayed directly from the bottle not thinned. I use Krylon Matte Clear as the final varnish.
b. Trouble with Washes - pin washing (as my scale model buddies call it) that is shown here will fix the problem you were having. A couple coats of varnish will protect the model. But a water based varnish like the Vallejo stuff only allows a couple seconds of correcting flaws before the Alcohol eats through it and you risk damaging the paint under it. Solvent based Varnish (canned spray stuff that tells you to use in a ventilated area) will buy you more time.

Hey Les, I finally got my hands on some of vallejo's varnishes (I wonder if there is some kind of distribution problem because I've noticed a lot of places are sold out or don't carry a lot of their product line) and tried my hand at the pin washing you did in this video. Unfortunately, the only washes I have are GW's and they just weren't giving me the capillary action you had and like I have seen in some videos (notably ScaleModelMedic's).

I was wondering if the water you used to water down vallejo's inks was your water/flow aid mixture or just straight water? Are the ink's a big difference in how they act compared to GW's wash or even your home made wash you sold? I'm just disappointed with my results with the GW wash's capillary action. Any suggestions?

Thanks again!

p.s. saw your new tutorial up and it's pretty awesome and inspiring me to become a better painter/try new methods

CicatrizESP33 wrote:

LBursley wrote:

CicatrizESP33 wrote:Hey Les,

I really enjoyed this tutorial and all your tutorials for that matter. I had a few questions on this one in specific that I was hoping you could answer. I was under the assumption that you sprayed your Vallejo varnishes through your airbrush before and after your washing step. I was wondering, did you thin the varnishes before spraying or are they good to go out of the bottle? Also, do you also use them as your final sealant varnish? If so, how do you like them?

I am trying my hand at some pre-heresy emperor's children and am very interested in your controlled wash technique you used in this video. I want a dark wash in the deep crevices/shadow areas but I am finding that if the wash gets anywhere I didn't want it, it darkens the VGC Royal Purple to nearly black. Thanks for the help!

Thanks!

a. Varnish - Sprayed directly from the bottle not thinned. I use Krylon Matte Clear as the final varnish.
b. Trouble with Washes - pin washing (as my scale model buddies call it) that is shown here will fix the problem you were having. A couple coats of varnish will protect the model. But a water based varnish like the Vallejo stuff only allows a couple seconds of correcting flaws before the Alcohol eats through it and you risk damaging the paint under it. Solvent based Varnish (canned spray stuff that tells you to use in a ventilated area) will buy you more time.

Hey Les, I finally got my hands on some of vallejo's varnishes (I wonder if there is some kind of distribution problem because I've noticed a lot of places are sold out or don't carry a lot of their product line) and tried my hand at the pin washing you did in this video. Unfortunately, the only washes I have are GW's and they just weren't giving me the capillary action you had and like I have seen in some videos (notably ScaleModelMedic's).

I was wondering if the water you used to water down vallejo's inks was your water/flow aid mixture or just straight water? Are the ink's a big difference in how they act compared to GW's wash or even your home made wash you sold? I'm just disappointed with my results with the GW wash's capillary action. Any suggestions?

Thanks again!

p.s. saw your new tutorial up and it's pretty awesome and inspiring me to become a better painter/try new methods

I'm also very interested on this. I was thinking about using a more simplistic form of just Paint + Distilled Water + Acrylic Medium but if the results are better with that formula i might expend a little more for it.

Your video tutorials are awesome man, thanks for continuing to add those.

Ive seen your stuff on you tube...you do some fantastic work and even better tutorials!