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Im going to get into infinity, although I worry about the models. For some reason whenever I get a metal GW model, I end up messing it up and have a painted mini with chips everywhere. Now, whoever painted a metallic GW model and an infinity one; was Infinity's easier to paint with at all, or are they still a challenge?


thanks!

Infinity models are much easier to assemble and paint because they still have lead in them.

All GW 'white metal' models had the lead taken out of them because of the dangers of little Johnny sucking head......s of metal minis <looks round furtively>

The slightly porous quality this gives to the surface makes superglue and paint adhere better, although if your models are going to take a lot of handling or be transported (and so in and out of figure cases a lot) I would still recommend a matt varnish when you're done.

I'd look forward to it, though - they are stunning to paint

I'd take issue with Chimera_Calvin's assertion that they're easier to assemble. The lead content of the metal has no bearing on its ease of assembly except that the metal is slightly softer, so that cutting, clipping, drilling and converting is a little easier.

Corvus Belli's Infinity range tends to be sculpted into more elaborate poses than GWs. I consider this to be a strength that really explores the possibilities inherent in metal casting, drawing on the experience of the mainland-European large scale casters like Andrea Miniatures, Romeo Models and Knight Models, but it also means that there are often contact points between parts that are too small or delicate to drill for a really solid, pinned joint (off the top of my head, I recall that getting the swords to stay on the Domaru's belt, given the tiniest of locating nubbins, was a complete pain in the posterior).

You may want to invest in a superglue accelerant and be aware that these joints often remain fragile once set.

However, it's also worth noting that most of the common light and heavy infantry models are one-piece castings and, so, very easy to assemble (but almost impossible to convert).

As for painting, the tips for avoiding chipping on metal models are the same for Corvus Belli pieces as they are for Citadel miniatures: start with an all-over primer coat, using a properly-formulated primer spray. I use a variety of sprays but none gives better long-term knock-resistance than Citadel Colour, like it or not.

The Corvus Belli miniatures have a more realistic scaling than GW, making many of the details extremely small and difficult to pick out, but the models also favour simple painting techniques, such as damp- and dry-brushing, washes and dips, which emphasize their fine detail, although they don't make as much of the possibilities inherent in the designs, obviously, as freehand painting will.

Once painted, if you suffer regular chipping from transport and heavy use, spray on a gloss varnish first, allow this to dry fully (usually takes 24 hours) and then re-varnish with a satin or matt spray.

Models dipped in Army Painter QuickShade or a homemade equivalent will already have a gloss finish that will protect the model very well against heavy use and regular transport. It's also worth observing that a gloss finish (even sprayed on, although a dip is better) will help to reinforce the strength of those fiddly joints I mentioned at the start.

R.

Makes sense. Didn't know that the models have lead (or that games workshop had models with lead in them), but if that helps then its much better! Thanks for the info (and LOL to Chimera_Calvin's joke )

For clarity: most metal wargaming and collectors' miniatures are made from a lead/tin alloy (a.k.a. "white metal") including a variety of other metals in various trace quantities.

Citadel miniatures have, for a number of years now, been made with a lead-free alloy that retains the same degree of detail without being toxic. It has, however, been more prone to flashing and is noticeably harder and more brittle.

Of course, Citadel is now no longer manufacturing white metal miniatures, so the debate becomes moot. They weren't the only manufacturer using lead-free alloy, but I'm not entirely sure who else does at the moment. Corvus Belli certainly doesn't.

R.

Corvus Belli used to be lead free but the supplier of the metal stopped doing it as there wasn't enough demand for it.

It's a shame, I did like that it was fully lead free and I'd hope it'll return to that. The metal was excellent for working with, I haven't noticed any difference working with their old lead free and their newer <5% lead content metal.

precinctomega wrote:Citadel miniatures have, for a number of years now, been made with a lead-free alloy that retains the same degree of detail without being toxic. It has, however, been more prone to flashing and is noticeably harder and more brittle. [...] They weren't the only manufacturer using lead-free alloy, but I'm not entirely sure who else does at the moment. Corvus Belli certainly doesn't.

There's nothing wrong with a little lead in minis, assuming you don't spend hours upon hours sucking on the things. The actual lead content is usually pretty low and they're usually destined to be completely covered in paint, anyway (if not varnish, as well). The move to lead-free alloys was made, as I understand it, primarily to make models appear "safer" so they could be marketed to a younger audience without parents (with their pocketbooks) crying "irresponsible!" I know that Reaper moved to a lead-free alloy a while back, but with rising tin prices they've introduced the P-65 Heavy Metal line, which uses their original white metal formula, allowing the same sculpts to be cast in equal, if not higher, detail at a lower cost. If you come across two visually identical reaper minis in the same store for different prices, they're likely cast from the same mold in the two different materials.