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Made in us
PanOceaniac Hacking Specialist Sergeant





Youngstown, Ohio

Hello all,
I am looking for some advice. I am painting Ultramarines and I have been intrigued by the idea of using Quick Shade. I would like to try it, but I don't want to screw up one of my minis in testing it, so I thought I would reach out to the great community of painters here to see what you think.

So the question is this: Is Quick Shade a bad idea on a model like the SM?

My fear is that it will either darken it too much (one example I had with washes is that it darkened my Ultramarine to look like a Crimson Fist), or it will will not stick and shade the mini properly.

Any thoughts, advice, and opinions are welcome.

# of Unpainted/Unassembled > # of Painted models.  
   
Made in de
Dipping With Wood Stain





Hattersheim, Germany

Quickshade comes in three tones, so it should be possible to find one suited for your needs. Maybe after priming you could try basecoating your model in ultramarine blue and then use either the light shade or medium shade. This shouldn't darken to overall color too much.

My FLGS did a tutorial, when the new Blood Angels Codex came out. On the pic you can see, that the dipped mini (right) doesn't darken too much compared to the undipped one (left).

http://www.fantasyladen.de/bastelecke/011/Dragonred_2.jpg

Hope this helps,


IK-Painter

Check out my Warmachine and Malifaux painting blog at http://ik-painter.blogspot.com/

As always, enjoy and have fun! 
   
Made in us
PanOceaniac Hacking Specialist Sergeant





Youngstown, Ohio

That is good to know. I usually prime black and airbrush my base color of Ultramarine Blue. In my wash experience, I was using Mordian Blue and Badab Black wash and my marine went from a proud member of the Ultramarines to a proud member of the Crimson Fists.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/08/04 18:05:50


# of Unpainted/Unassembled > # of Painted models.  
   
Made in au
Stormin' Stompa






YO DAKKA DAKKA!

That's pretty much exactly what will happen if you put a black wash over anything. - it gets darker. I'm not sure what you were expecting.
   
Made in us
PanOceaniac Hacking Specialist Sergeant





Youngstown, Ohio

Arctik_Firangi wrote:That's pretty much exactly what will happen if you put a black wash over anything. - it gets darker. I'm not sure what you were expecting.


I thought it would darken it a little, but it darkened it a little too much for my liking.

# of Unpainted/Unassembled > # of Painted models.  
   
Made in au
Stormin' Stompa






YO DAKKA DAKKA!

With plated armour you're often best off applying the wash exclusively to recesses. It isn't going to do any 'fake highlighting' if the base colour is not light enough to generate contrast with the shade you're applying, and is basically wasted on flat areas.

You can water down your washes too - it reduces its depth and 'goopiness', making it handle and shade a bit differently.
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Alot of folks will tell you that Quickshade or other dips are not good for models with broad expanses of armor like space marines. I think that all depends on what kind of results you are going for. Take a look at these galleries/tutorias from Armypainter using blue marines to get an idea of what the dip will do and if it's right for you.

Single ultramarine with dark tone
http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=74&Gallery=Crystal Blue: Space Marine

Same thing with a terminator
http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=21&Gallery=40K Assault on Black Reach: Space Marine Terminator

Dark tone (the black'ish one) is probably what you want to go with for blue armor. You can experiment with strong or soft tone, but that'd be like putting a brown wash on blue, and that's not usually what you want. Depending on how you apply it and how vigorously/thouroughly you shake or remove it you'll likely get results somewhere between the two above.

One last thing to consider. If you haven't painted them yet, I'd advise you to use a lighter shade of blue than you originally were planning on and/or basecoat in white. I dip nearly all my models, and I find that a white basecoat and lighter shades make the model "pop" more and increases the fake-highlight effect that you get where the edges look lighter because the dip flows away from them.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/08/04 18:44:04


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My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

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Made in us
PanOceaniac Hacking Specialist Sergeant





Youngstown, Ohio

Another question with Quick Shade Dark Tone - does it have a brown pigment to it? I was looking at the gallery images of it being used on white and (either by the lighting in the pic or it just being me) it looks like it gives a brown coloring to it.

# of Unpainted/Unassembled > # of Painted models.  
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

I can't say catagorically that there is absolutely no brown in Dark tone, but AP says it is a thin black pigment. http://usshop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=1

This squares with what I've heard elsewhere regarding a Dark Tone substitute being Minwax Polyshades Tudor, which is a thin black pigment mix that gives a greyish tint to wood.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in us
PanOceaniac Hacking Specialist Sergeant





Youngstown, Ohio

Gotcha. Is Quick Shade also a sealent like Purity Spray or Testors Gloss Coat? After seeing some pics, I am thinking I may like to brighten a few details post-dipping and am wondering if it would still take paint over the shading.

# of Unpainted/Unassembled > # of Painted models.  
   
 
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