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So I picked up a Pietta Model 1851 Navy U.S. Marshal .44 Caliber Revolver at a gun show some time ago...

http://www.cabelas.com/pistols-1851-navy-u-s-marshal-44-caliber-revolver-1.shtml

Me, being somewhat of a noob in firearms, stored it improperly, and when I took it out to show someone, it was covered in rust/carbon. I've looked up information on how to get it off and make it look sexy again, but no luck.

I hear some people say use 0000 steel wool, but I tried that and got nowhere. I thought of going courser but people say you should not or you'll scratch the gun up.

I've heard people say use Hoppes 9. I left a coat on overnight, gave it a brushing in the morning, didn't even make a dent in it.

Called the local gun store, guy wants to charge me 45 bucks to clean the thing, and I KNOW that it can be done at home cheaper than that, but I'm not finding any answers regarding how to do it. It seems like it would be a very common task to perform, but I can't find anything helpful on it. All i find is bore cleaning instructions, but I'm not cleaning the bore. Well I am, but I want to clean the outside too.

So what do?

Is it a replica or an original? If its original cleaning it up will destroy its value, and break my heart...

Lmao, if it was original I wouldn't even fire it. Nay, it's a replica.

With hopes it doesnt derail the thread too much, I'd love to get a mauser red9, but I heard those things are so collectable you shouldn't even fire one. What a waste.

You should ask this question on firarm focused sites.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/index.php

Also check for more antique oriented firearm websites.

Frazzled wrote:You should ask this question on firarm focused sites.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/index.php

Also check for more antique oriented firearm websites.

Yeah, there's that. If I can avoid registering for another forum I will, but yeah that looks to be the best route.

Lol, for being a website with a name like dakkadakka I would think everyone here would have firearm knowledge!

It may just require a steel brush, oil, and elbow grease.

Regrettably I had the chance to pick up a three brush set when I was in town yesterday. Had soft, hard, and extra hard or something of that nature, all for 2 bucks.

But yeah, I'm guessing a harder brush might just be it. Registered to that website, so I'll see what I can dig up there.

CLP and elbow grease.

Dissassemble it completely and cover it in CLP. Let is sit, perhaps over night. The CLP should start to break down the rust/carbon. Your weapon will seem to be covered in a nast black grease, which is good because that is all the grime the CLP has broken down. Scrub it with a toothbrush or similar object to break down large build up. Q-tips and an old cotton t-shirt are ideal for cleaning. Long q-tips with the wood stick and a tight cotton nub (like they have in a jar at the doctors office) are better than regular q-tips, but either will do for getting into cracks and such.

You can use warm soapy water but must scrub ALL of it off and coat with CLP afterwards. Water is good for finishing up, but has its hazards. Some folks my be against using water completely, I am not one of those people. Lots of CLP will take a long time to scrub off. You will likely get black grease for some time. I thorough and tough scrub with water will work the last of the grease and carbon out,but you must be sure not to let water remain in recessess.

Finally, after the weapon seems clean, coat very lightly in CLP. If the CLP comes off clear, then the weapon is clean. If it still turning black, repeat the cleaning process.

When you are ready to store it, lightly coat it in CLP to keep rust from building up.

*edit* Oh, and simple green has always worked wonders for me.


I would not use steel wool because you are gonna scratch the weapon up. Tooth brushes and t-shirts.

Is this what you speak of?

http://www.atlantictactical.com/mmCATALOG/Images/clp-12-gun-cleaner.jpg

Also, I don't remember seeing that at my local academy (sporting goods store), would I be able to find some at, say walmart or the like?

Edit - Simple green....hmmm Well i have super clean but I've seen that stuff do terrible things to all sorts of stuff that wasn't a warhammer miniature. I'm rather scared of putting that stuff anywhere near my revolver.

Elbow grease and proper storage next time.

If your lucky the finish won't have pitted on you since Pietta isn't generally known for their quality.

Hopps #9 is what I use to clean all of my guns, its a solvant so its really only going to work on powder buildup and excess grease.

A good wipedown with WD40 should take most of the rust off.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Necroshea wrote:Is this what you speak of?

http://www.atlantictactical.com/mmCATALOG/Images/clp-12-gun-cleaner.jpg

Also, I don't remember seeing that at my local academy (sporting goods store), would I be able to find some at, say walmart or the like?

Edit - Simple green....hmmm Well i have super clean but I've seen that stuff do terrible things to all sorts of stuff that wasn't a warhammer miniature. I'm rather scared of putting that stuff anywhere near my revolver.

If the gun is actually polished steel then there isn't much that can hurt it.

Catyrpelius wrote:Elbow grease and proper storage next time.

If your lucky the finish won't have pitted on you since Pietta isn't generally known for their quality.

Hopps #9 is what I use to clean all of my guns, its a solvant so its really only going to work on powder buildup and excess grease.

A good wipedown with WD40 should take most of the rust off.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Necroshea wrote:Is this what you speak of?

http://www.atlantictactical.com/mmCATALOG/Images/clp-12-gun-cleaner.jpg

Also, I don't remember seeing that at my local academy (sporting goods store), would I be able to find some at, say walmart or the like?

Edit - Simple green....hmmm Well i have super clean but I've seen that stuff do terrible things to all sorts of stuff that wasn't a warhammer miniature. I'm rather scared of putting that stuff anywhere near my revolver.

If the gun is actually polished steel then there isn't much that can hurt it.

i think he bought in that condition with the idea to clean it. I may have read that incorrectly.

Whats CLP?

Breakfree CLP, its a light oil much like WD40.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
WD40 is what my gunsmith recommended, so its what I use. It also has the added benefit of being easy to find.

To the OP, if this replica is going to be an entry into antique or replica firearms I highly suggest finding yourself an able gunsmith.

I guess I kind of use "CLP" as a generic term

Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative. Breakfree, DW-40, Remmington Gun oil (this and the DW-40 should be at walmart) are all pretty much suitable.

There's no easy way around this one i'm afraid, Get yourself the LOTR trilogy, put it on the TV, and start scrubbing away.

Also keep in mind that if you ever take the thing out and shoot it, black powder and most of its substitutes are corrosive. You will need to clean it once you bring it home, and start off by taking it down to component screws and dumping it in a bucket of water, then pulling parts out and cleaning and drying normally. Failure to do this (Windex is acceptable, since it contains water, but I find the bucket better because it's kinda hard to miss spots that way..) post-firing will result in you being here again.

Enjoy the pistol!

SOFDC wrote:There's no easy way around this one i'm afraid, Get yourself the LOTR trilogy, put it on the TV, and start scrubbing away.

Also keep in mind that if you ever take the thing out and shoot it, black powder and most of its substitutes are corrosive. You will need to clean it once you bring it home, and start off by taking it down to component screws and dumping it in a bucket of water, then pulling parts out and cleaning and drying normally. Failure to do this post-firing will result in you being here again.

Enjoy the pistol!

on the positive you don't have to shoot black powder. there are a variety of better substitutes IIRC.

Regarding the superclean, I was thinking of giving the cylinder a bath in the stuff and seeing what happens. Someone had already been dry firing it before I got it, so two of the nipples mushroomed out and make putting percussion caps on difficult.

So how long would you say I should submerge it?

Edit - It's kind of wonky and I intent to replace it anyways so that was the point in submerging that particular part.

You need to clean your firearm?

It's going to be really hard to clean it and not damage the paint. I suggest you strip it and start over. If its metal, use acetone. If it's plastic, use Simple Green.

You'll have to repaint, but it will look much better when you're done with it.

If you're struggling, may I suggest http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

Grakmar wrote:You need to clean your firearm?

It's going to be really hard to clean it and not damage the paint. I suggest you strip it and start over. If its metal, use acetone. If it's plastic, use Simple Green.

You'll have to repaint, but it will look much better when you're done with it.

If you're struggling, may I suggest http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

Um...what? Might want to read just about any part of the thread before you post yeah?

+1 on the CLP/WD40 and Rem Oil. Ditto on the Toothbrush (Get the stiffest/hardest brush you can find for rust removal) and cotton swabs/t-shirt.

As for firing.. Most collectors actully want an old gun that CAN be fired. Not that they will ever fire the thing, but if it shoots it is considered to be worth more.
However, if you do put round through it, make sure you clean it as soon as possible after.

helgrenze wrote:However, if you do put round through it, make sure you clean it as soon as possible after.

This was my first blackpowder based gun, and man that thing gets nasty after a single shot.

I can't believe Im the first person to suggest this (unless I missed it); white paper.
Soak with CLP (breakfree is in fact the brand name for this product) or rem oil, or birchwood casey synthetic gun oil. And rub the surface with plain white printer paper or butcher paper (unwaxed).
There is an actual product with a red coating on thin cloth that is actually made for this that can be ordered through DoD supply chains but I'll be damned if I remember it's tradename.
The paper will pull off the surface rusting, and then polish out the surface. Hard to scrub places and spots deserve toothbrush scrubbing.
If you really want to go the easy route there is a rust and blue remover.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1083/Product/RUST_and_BLUE_REMOVER
Also made by BC. Which is really what you SHOULD be using, as you prep to reblue or case color ( you will reblue) I'm aware it was silver before but it needs to be protected.
Be willing to help you further if you happen to have pics or your current supplies you already have. The gunsmiths 45 dollar offer was quite generous for the work entailed in removing surface rust from the stamped surface on that pistol.