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I need to strip the paint off of some of my models as I accidently spilled a tub of white paint over them ( my bad). Does any one know of any good ways or products to do this? They are all finecast models if that matters.
Cheers

for UK I think people like the Fairy Power Spray... I've heard really good things about it and I wish they sold it in the US. Also, toothbrush.

With products I use, I have to soak them for a while. The Fairy Power Spray is suppose to be great with not much soaking, but you'll still need to use the toothbrush to dislodge the paint really well.

Tha tproduct looks good! so what just spray it on, leave it for a bit and the use a toothbrush to get everything off?

Yes, that's it. I've use it on GW plastics, metals, and even Vinyl models and there had never been any damage. I even left a vinyl model in soak for a month and had no damage to it. The paint kind of strings up, so it's quite messy but very effective.

Word of warning. I used it neat to clean the paint on my garage door. By the time I had sprayed down to the bottom of the door, the spray on the top of the door had caused the paint to bubble.

I also use the old head from an electric toothbrush. The action the toothbrush gives it is even more effective than a manual, and it comes of quicker and easier.

What do you suggest to mix it with then? Just water or something else?

If it is an enamel paint then Testors Paint Remover works well but it will weaken glue (except wood glue from Elmer's), the top layer of plastic will get a bleached look and may slightly weaken the top layer of plastic if the model is soaked for too long (happens at about 10 minutes). With acrylic paints I've had limited success with it. You can buy this product for fairly cheap from Hobby Lobby (about $10 USD for a 1/2 pint bottle).

To remove paint, pour the Testors Paint Remover into a bowl or cup high enough to completely submerge the model. Place the model so it is completely submerged. After about 5 minutes, remove the model and use a toothbrush. The enamel paint should come off easily (if it doesn't, soak it for a couple more minutes). In the hard to get areas use a toothpick. The acrylic paint will not come off as easily as enamel. For fine detailing, use a sharp hobby knife to carefully skim it off and any decals. Rinse the model with warm water and towel dry before putting into storage.

If a limb falls off, you can use Elmer's Wood Glue to reapply it without having to shave off anything (great for pieces that have to fit a certain way) but you will have to hold it in place for about 15 minutes before it can support itself. A blob will do, use a toothpick to remove the bleeding and running glue. Don't dry your fingers in it.

I rarely make such statements but since I have tried nearly every so called good advice I am pretty confident that I found the best stuff to unstrip miniatures.

Mellerud acryl cleaner. That stuff dont stink, wont harm your minis nor yourself and is easy to use. It strips acrylic paints pretty good and usually let the undercoat untouched. Mellerud should be available in the UK as in other europe countries - dont know about the states.

I either soak mine in Simple Green for 24 hours and toothbrush off the paint or soak them in Greased Lightning Orange Blast for around 16 hours.

Sorry to add another suggestion but this is what I do.

1. Place models in a tub where they will all fit

2. Pour on dettol until covered

3. Add a small amount (roughly 20 drops) of Vallejo airbrush thinner

4. Leave for a day and scrub like a mad man

James811 wrote:

2. Pour on dettol until covered

Maybe some more information on the Dettol type? as I've watched reviews in the passed and they all recommend a spercific type.



If you want to use fairy power spray (green spray bottle) you want a air tight container to keep it in.
I would recommend 12-24 hours for thick paint, might need to go through the process 2 or 3 times, depending on paint etc.
-Spay the power spray all around the model liberal coat.
-Put model in air tight container
- wait 12-24 hours and take out, use toothbrush to remove paint. do not run under water until your happy you've got off all your going to get off.
-Run under water and use toothbrush to remove any excess spray.

I advise wearing protective gloves, expecially in the case of stripping many models. your hand isnt going to fall off or anything but the primary purpose of these cleaning agents is to combat grease, which also removes oil from your skin, I've had a few days of skin dryness and peeling when not using gloves.

An electric toothbrush makes a lot of difference, Im currently using one which only cost a few quid, picked up from Wilko's

If your removing really thin paint, I've managed to get thin paint off after only 30 mins of soaking.

Bad point about FPS is its more expensive than Dettol, the good point is your models do not smell like dettol once stripped hah

I've only had one paint type I couldnt strip, and im not sure what it was. I buy a lot of my models on ebay so I do spend a considerable amound of time stripping. In this case, it was sonme sort of primer they used and the model retained its black undercoat, this did not cause me a problem through, and the layer was incredibly thin.

 Nem wrote:

James811 wrote:

2. Pour on dettol until covered

Maybe some more information on the Dettol type? as I've watched reviews in the passed and they all recommend a spercific type.

This stuff is what I use



It works fantastically but it makes your miniatures smell like a hospital.

You can leave them in there for a days and it shouldn't hurt.

I also have a far amount of success with this stuff



You can pick it up for a quid in Poundland or Asda.

I spray my models in Fairy Power Spray then pop them in an old jam jar and whack the lid on. When I fish them out to scrub off some of the spray remains in the pot as a liquid. Next time, pop models in, quick top-up spray, lid on. Next time, there may be enough liquid to just drop the models into. Saves wasting a lot of Power Spray if you do this. You could just pour the lot into the jam jar and just submerge models every time... up to you!

Fairy Power Spray really is the best UK option. It's fantastic.

Avoid Dettol. You have to rinse with more Dettol, not water, or the paint turns to a greasy mess. Horrid.

 JohnnyHell wrote:

Avoid Dettol. You have to rinse with more Dettol, not water, or the paint turns to a greasy mess. Horrid.

Even doing that mine turns into a goopy mess no matter what and there's still tiny bits of paint left over that texture the thing.

I'm having great success with methylated spirits as my only other option (it also works well in combo with dettol I must say as dettol gets the majority off, but getting majority off may as well be none of it) is importing simple green from the UK which apparently isn't TOO expensive.

Best of luck OP.

I've had limited success with Dettol. It does the job admirably with regards to the loosening of old paint [on metal, plastic] but it's an absolute disaster to remove. You have to scrub the miniatures clean inside a solution of neat Dettol otherwise it'll turn into a sticky mess that rapidly becomes impossible to properly clean. Then there's the smell...

I've had most success with Fairy Power Spray.

Hello, greetings from Colombia. I have a plastic Beechcraft Bonanza by Lindberg which is 60 years old. I'm restoring it and i have to eliminate the white enamel paint it has all over it. I have tried alcohol with no luck. Enamel is an oil base paint and it dissolves with thinner which at the same time, dissolves styrene!! : What do you recommend me to use? Please try to give me no brand names of products unavailable here such as "Dettol" which is completely unknown here. Thanks a lot!!

Im in the U.K and can vouch for Fairy Power Spray .

- I run each model under tap , get em wet , then just shake excess water off.
- Next hold model and spray liberally with fairy power spray all over , get a good foam up.
- Place in an old plastic take away tray , whack on the lid
- check after about 2hours , scrub with toothbrush and rinse under tap.

If it needs more repeat above steps.

I would advise against leaving models for more than a couple of hours at a time before rinsing off and checking.

I lost a small amount of detail on sm chestpiece after leaving in soak for about 24hours.

Power spray costs about £4 a bottle i think , but does last a long time.

I've had good results with dettol but it smells and is a pain cos you can't rinse under a trap until all the paint is off. If fairy power sissy is available I'd give that a try! I'm gonna have a go with it this week I'll let you know the results!


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I've find dettol is bad if you get it on your skin as well....don't know about fairy power spray though. My vote is to try them both and see what you get on with the best!

FAIRY POWER SPRAY
FAIRY POWER SPRAY
FAIRY POWER SPRAY
FAIRY POWER SPRAY
FAIRY POWER SPRAY

this stuff is a godsend it's about £2 from wilko's and I haven't had anything it wouldn't strip. Can't vouch for its safe use on fine cast though!!!
I even use it watered down 1:1 with water to clean my airbrush it's truly the best thing I've tried beats dettol and brake fluid hands down

IF it's available in Columbia, Powerspray is the thing. Used neat it even took the paint off my garage door, and I don't doubt it'll do the same to the car if you spill it.

It should tackle enamels with ease, but you may have to import it.

I've tried it on Vinyl and it removes the paint but does not harm the vinyl, so it should be OK on finecast. As ever, the advice is to try it on a spare section of sprue first.