Switch Theme:

Death Korps of Krieg- any tips & advice?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in it
Pauper with Promise





Naples, Italy

Hello Dakka!

I am starting a new DKoK army (for the joy of my wallet) and I am really excited about it. After a week of spasmodic wait, I have finally received my very first DKoK miniatures: an Infantry Squad, Firing. Needless to say, they are beautiful (even if a damn shoulder pad has gone missing ).

Today I started assembling them. I am quite well-trained with plastic and metallic minis, but this is my first experience with Forgeworld and resin, so I am a bit scared of doing something wrong and regretting it for the rest of my gamer life (I know: I'm a bit dramatic, but I think you will understand).

So, all of you, do you have any tip, hint or advice to give about assembling (or painting, as well) DKoK resin models? Every contribution is welcome .

Also, what do you think would be better: to paint a full assembled model or to paint separate parts and then glue everything? I'd prefer the latter option (I want to paint those Kriegs the best I can) but I've heard that DKoK minis sometimes need to be adjusted with some green stuff. It would be a shame if, after great efforts, I had to repaint some parts.

[Thumb - P9060067.JPG]
Getting to work

[Thumb - P9060069.JPG]
Neat and tidy organization is the key for success

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/09/08 10:50:06


'Some may question your right to destroy ten billion people. But those who understand realise that you have no right to let them live.'

-In Exterminatus Extremis 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





Blackburn, Lancashire

I haven't had too much experience on the assembly side of things - just the one Vermin Lord so far - But I've painted quite a few FW infantry pieces.

1 - Make sure you scrub all of the miniatures with warm soapy water. You don't have to be too careful with them on the whole, they're pretty tough, but if you get a soft-ish toothbrush then all should be fine. This is to get the mould release agent off the resin.

2 - Don't rush in to anything when you're painting. If you're given the option, build the primer slowly, a light dusting, dry, light dusting, dry and so on 'till covered, then leave them for a day and then give them a rub over with your hands. Maybe even scrape them a little with your nail. If the primer is flaking off then there is still release agent on the model and your finished paint job would have flaked off. Not a nice experience.

3 - I would say build them before painting. One of the reasons being exactly what you stated - They don't always go together so seamlessly. Also with having to stick them with superglue you could end up with superglue burn marks on the paint which you'll have to paint over again (A white faded effect - I'm sure you've come across it before?).

4 - Unless you're giving them a GD or Box Art standard paint job, give them a good spraying of matt varnish once done to make extra sure the paint stays in place.


I may be a little OTT with it but I am very paranoid about the paint flaking back off once the job is done which is, unfortunately, an all too real possibility.

www.facebook.com/warandpieces

warandpieces@outlook.com 
   
Made in us
Stabbin' Skarboy





Los Angeles

As above. Be aware that resin is more brittle then plastic so it dont take to knife cutting as well. Use snippers and a jewelers saw to make your cuts. I suggest tools from StyleX, links in my signature.

Primer should be allowed plenty of time to set. And yeah paint after building. Good luck my man.

All my work is done using StyleX, Professional Model Tools
http://www.stylexhobby.com

My 1850 pt. Ork army: Big Boss Badonk-a-Donk and 'da Dakka Dudez
Eye of Terror San Diego Tournament: Best Painted
Game Empire Pasadena RTT : Best Painted x 4
Bay Area Open: 2nd Best Presentation
Anime Expo '14: Best Presentation/Hobbyist
Feast of Blades Qualifier: Best Presentation(Perfect Score)
 
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Charleston, SC

Follow everything thats been said already. From my own personal time with some krieg minis, they can be a pain to get fit right, do that first before you paint and prime them, or you will regret it.

Oh stop complaining, its for the greater good... Now get in the box!

Owner of R.S. Commission Studios. PM For a quote. Link in profile. 
   
Made in it
Pauper with Promise





Naples, Italy

Well, thank you, people.

I'm paying maniacal attention to cut the sprue properly and all the rifles are still in one piece (even if I snapped a trench tool)

War&Pieces, regarding the 1st thing you pointed out, I actually had washed them... slightly. I soaked the minis in soapy water (using a stainer, of course), rinsed them and repeated the process a couple of times. I didn't use a brush, though.
Do you think I had to?

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/09/08 04:20:23


'Some may question your right to destroy ten billion people. But those who understand realise that you have no right to let them live.'

-In Exterminatus Extremis 
   
Made in us
Stabbin' Skarboy





Los Angeles

Its not required. Feel the resin in your hand, if it feels slippery then you should wash it again. You are washing off oils and residue from the inside of the mold when the resin sets up. I work in an FX shop and cast all day Primer should stick fine to it as long as it got a washing.

All my work is done using StyleX, Professional Model Tools
http://www.stylexhobby.com

My 1850 pt. Ork army: Big Boss Badonk-a-Donk and 'da Dakka Dudez
Eye of Terror San Diego Tournament: Best Painted
Game Empire Pasadena RTT : Best Painted x 4
Bay Area Open: 2nd Best Presentation
Anime Expo '14: Best Presentation/Hobbyist
Feast of Blades Qualifier: Best Presentation(Perfect Score)
 
   
Made in it
Pauper with Promise





Naples, Italy

They were still a little bit oily, so I rewashed them, this time using a brush. I think they will be fine now.

Thanks for your comments

Time to stop talking and get to work

Here's the very first of the bunch (I have decided to paint the backpack separately):
[Thumb - P9070078.JPG]

[Thumb - P9070079.JPG]

[Thumb - P9070080.JPG]

[Thumb - P9070081.JPG]

[Thumb - P9070077.JPG]


'Some may question your right to destroy ten billion people. But those who understand realise that you have no right to let them live.'

-In Exterminatus Extremis 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





Blackburn, Lancashire

I absolutely love the look of these guys. They almost bring a joyful tear to my eye. Very nice work on the build.

I definitely need to get some of these some day.. Hopefully that isn't what 'Some Day' usually means.

www.facebook.com/warandpieces

warandpieces@outlook.com 
   
Made in gb
Shas'la with Pulse Carbine





Someone may have told you already, but any bent parts can be easily manipulated back into shape by boiling some water and putting it into a small container like a glass or cup while you work, any piece that's bent or whatever, just dip it into the water for a few seconds and then gently move it back into shape, once it cools down it will be hard again in about 20-30 seconds. This technique can also be used to move parts slightly so that they fit together better.
   
Made in it
Pauper with Promise





Naples, Italy

@War&Pieces - Thanks. I love their design too. I can't wait to paint them all

@ Bobug - Fortunately, it is written (tiny) on the piece of paper that ForgeWorld pass off as instructions. So, after a few moments of panic, I managed to move the bent pieces (a huge lot) back to shape. Thank you, anyway.

'Some may question your right to destroy ten billion people. But those who understand realise that you have no right to let them live.'

-In Exterminatus Extremis 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: