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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Hi everyone,

I've used Zap-a-Gap for years, but it's not bonding too well with the metal miniatures I have (makes sense). So, I am wondering how everyone put's together their metal minis?? Money isn't a concern, I just want to do it the right way rather than have it painted and the arm falls off.


Thank you!
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

I struggled with different superglues for years. I know use Gorilla Brand Superglue exclusively. It has a bit more "give" to it and doesn't snap quite as easily.

On to your actual question. The best way to assemble metal models is to drill and pin every joint. I use paperclips, some use brass rod, whatever floats your boat.

Then use either your superglue of choice, or decide to never worry about that joint again and use JB Kwik two part epoxy. It's available at Home Depot and sets in about 5 minutes.
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

From some one who is finishing up a Sisters of Battle army (every thing is metal)

1: Wash with mild detergent to remove oils, dish soap is fine.
2: You may need to pin some joints. Get a pin vice and drill a hole into each piece. A short piece of brass rod or paperclip will provide reinforcement.
3: I don't know how that glue works, but I use Gale Force 9's super glue, Works well and comes in a good bottle that keeps the glue good.
   
Made in us
Xenohunter with First Contact




Indianapolis, IN

As it's already been stated, you should always give metal minis a good scrubbing with dish soap and a toothbrush before painting them. Do this after you've cleaned up the mold lines a bit, as that will produce metal dust which will interfere with the gluing process.

Next, pin your models! Pinning is so easy and worth it that I don't know why so many have an issue doing it. It's super easy, takes an extra minute, and costs very little. Get yourself a pin vice with several different size bits, and, of all things, plain metal paper clips. Use thicker gauge for heavier components.

Another method not mentioned is to score the surface joins of the two pieces you are wishing to connect. It's as simple as taking a hobby knife and lightly scoring the inside of the join. This creates a greater surface area for the glue to adhere to and increases the bond of the glue to the metal. I do a simple cross hatch design like this # . Super easy and effective.

I also only use Gorilla Super Glue anymore. The stuff is awesome. It's the same price as the glues you get at the hobby shop, but it's a little bit thicker of a formula. It takes less glue to glue the same components, in my opinion. The thickness of the glue also just feels more secure than other glues I've used. You can also find it most retail stores, so you don't have to make special trips to the hobby shop just for glue.

What is best in life? To crush your enemies, to see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentations of their women. Grrr.  
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

One option that hasn't been mentioned yet is including epoxy putty in joints, as an adjunct to CA glue. While it doesn't add the same resistance to torque as a pin, a little blob of GS guarantees good, even contact between faces that might otherwise have a sloppy fit. Just apply superglue to each side of the join, add a small ball of mixed putty to one side, and squish the two firmly together. Excess GS can be trimmed away and the resulting seam smoothed down before the putty cures (just be careful - CA is a to clean off of your tools, if any has leaked out with the putty) - no additional gap-filling step required!

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




When scoring the mating surfaces I like to do a crosshatch pattern on both sides. Really gives the glue something to grab on to. And the mix of GS and superglue has held my models for years.
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Broodlord






I use a combination of pinning and scoring when I assemble metal miniatures, I also use JB Weld rather than glues.

 
   
Made in us
Tunneling Trygon






Just assembled some very top heavy metal models. Was using Krazy glue Advanced Formula and I just let the glue sit for a bit. Bad it in the joint and let it breath for a little bit. Minute minimum, so it starts to kinda gel up. A bit of pressure, the smallest of turns and you can feel the glue grab hold. It locks in and then even the top half of the Red Terror doesn't fall off when I set it aside.

Alternatively, build a scaffold out of small Legos. Holds it in place while the glue dries enough for the intial bond. Don't judge me. It works.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/08/29 18:12:35


 
   
 
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