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So I gave some chipping fluid a shot tonight for the first time and I am in need of some tutelage. It didn't come out quit as expected.

First some pics and then on to my issues

http://i.imgur.com/Ej4wLes.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bobNe13.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eEjleMy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4MURamp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/w088XBN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1rpx2I9.jpg

So the first major qualm I have is there are numerous spots that all coats of paint came off, including the black primer coat. Is the a problem with my application of Matt varnish or something else? Missed varnish spots, too little varnish, or too mush pressure removing the top coats?

Second: what I've seen from others work spots appear more spotty (smaller chunks removed) than the large chunks I have removed in my attempt The large chunks of removed paint just don't look right. Did I again use too much pressure, not apply enough chipping fluid, or did I put in too many coats after the fluid.

Do you think this model will be salvageable with some technical weathering paint I have coming from GW in the mail? If this is not salvageable will simple green be sufficient in removing all the paint layers for another attempt? Any other tips for me with this?

Sorry for potato pics.

Hey there I have recently been experimenting with chipping medium as well so I'll chime in. How are you applying the medium with a brush or an airbrush? In some of the pictures I see some glooping in areas and that is 1 of 2 things from what I've experienced A. The medium is too thick B. you used too much water. I found that if I applied it using a brush sometimes my paint would actually begin to chip prematurely when I would layer up with watered down paints. Since applying 2 thin coats with an airbrush I haven't had this problem. I also have never used varnished under the medium, just an undercoat the medium en the topcoat before chipping. I use a q tip , lightly wet one end and keep the other dry, spot wet areas and lightly drag the dry end across to chip. You can see the effect I've gotten in my gallery.

I'm using an airbrush. For chipping fluid applicatiom I used a 3:1 ration of fluid to Vallejo thinner. Should I be using water instead or dilute it down some more? When you say too much water do you mean in the initial application of the fluid or when attempting to chip the final product? After you said it, I did run into the feeling of pulling the coat off when applying the metal paints with a brush which were applied watered down. I'll need to gain more airbrush control I think. I like your affects, very much along the lines of what I want to see. Thanks

PriorofDeath wrote:
I'm using an airbrush. For chipping fluid applicatiom I used a 3:1 ration of fluid to Vallejo thinner. Should I be using water instead or dilute it down some more? When you say too much water do you mean in the initial application of the fluid or when attempting to chip the final product? After you said it, I did run into the feeling of pulling the coat off when applying the metal paints with a brush which were applied watered down. I'll need to gain more airbrush control I think. I like your affects, very much along the lines of what I want to see. Thanks

When I said too much water I was talking about when you go to chip. I over watered some areas which then led to big chips instead of small ones and some "gooping" in the recesses. When I thin my chipping medium down I use liquitex flow improver but I'm sure vallejo works just as well if not better. I don't bother with thinner too much, flow improver and water gets me where I need to be every time.

Thanks, I got it stripped and drying. I'm gonna it another shot tomorrow and put your advice to use. It's much appreciated.

PriorofDeath wrote:
Thanks, I got it stripped and drying. I'm gonna it another shot tomorrow and put your advice to use. It's much appreciated.

No problem man. Remember to use a test mini, the one I used was the free liberator from last years first AoS White Dwarf. Always remember art isn't an exact science

zeragrin wrote:

PriorofDeath wrote:
Thanks, I got it stripped and drying. I'm gonna it another shot tomorrow and put your advice to use. It's much appreciated.

No problem man. Remember to use a test mini, the one I used was the free liberator from last years first AoS White Dwarf. Always remember art isn't an exact science

Impatience and bravado got the best of me. Out of all the models I got kicking around I went full tilt into my army. Ha-ha. Oh well lessons learned. Cammorough wasn't built in a day.

Edit: so true are your words on art and one I have always struggled with. Slowly I'll learn to let go.

PriorofDeath wrote:
So the first major qualm I have is there are numerous spots that all coats of paint came off, including the black primer coat. Is the a problem with my application of Matt varnish or something else? Missed varnish spots, too little varnish, or too mush pressure removing the top coats?

I don't have a huge amount of experience with chipping fluids but I'm going to guess if your under layers are getting removed and you aren't applying excessive pressure then maybe your under layers aren't tough enough?

What are you using as a primer, base colour and varnish prior to applying the chipping fluid?

I find Vallejo PU primers to not be as tough as spray can primers, if I want my primer to stick good and proper (like if I'm masking) then I tend to use either a spray can primer or a lacquer primer. A guy at the local shop said he also liked applying an enamel primer but I've never tried that myself, in general acrylics don't stick as well to enamels (though maybe the enamel primer is different).

For your varnish, you want to use a gloss varnish and ideally a tough one. Not all gloss varnishes are created equal, I haven't tested them all so I can't tell you which ones are best and which ones are worst, but I know from testing what I have that Humbrol Clear forms a much tougher shell than Vallejo's acrylic resin gloss. The reason you want a gloss instead of a matte is because 1. Gloss is tougher and 2. You use water to soften the chipping fluid, matte varnish can actually soak up water where as gloss tends to repel water.

I'd also suggest washing the miniatures with warm soapy water prior to painting (to get the primer to stick better) is a good idea and giving the varnish a couple of days to cure to a hard shell will probably work better than going straight over it with the chipping fluid.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
I don't have a huge amount of experience with chipping fluids but I'm going to guess if your under layers are getting removed and you aren't applying excessive pressure then maybe your under layers aren't tough enough?

What are you using as a primer, base colour and varnish prior to applying the chipping fluid?

Primer is Vallejo Model Air black Surface Primer (70.602). Base color is GW rhinox hide, spot highlighted with evil sun scarlet, and troll slayer orange. Varnish is Vallejo Matt Varnish (73.214). I think part of the problem was some excessive fore with over water saturation.

When I stripped the model I had no issues dipping it in simple green and wiping chunks off with bare fingure pressure on parts of the model. I didn't wash the model and have played with it as bare plastic a few times. Hand oil may have been an issue as well.

I'll give some glass varnish a shot as I have a small bottle of it. I think I have the varnish about a half an hour to cure. I'll leave let it cure much longer on my next attempt. I'll look into the humbrol clear as well as I'd like the rest of my vehicles to be weathered and not so prestine.

I use the the AK Interactive Heavy Chipping fluid over a the same Vallejo primer. Ensure that the model is clean before priming (especially resin).

Let the primer dry overnight. Although I have use varnish over the primer, I eventually found that this is not necessary but the overnight drying period is with a non-rattle can primer.

To get the chips, I have a very stiff bristle brush that I have trimmed down to just the nub. It works well to get big patches or scratch marks. If you use just a regular brush to apply water, you may be saturating too large an area. I also use hot water and paint it on in a few areas, wait 20 seconds and start chipping. I used to try to apply the base coat/highlight and do the chipping in the same day while it was still fresh but it still works even after it dries overnight.

Once you have finished your chipping, let the model dry overnight as well. I sometimes will come back in and paint a bit darker rust in the center of each chip to get even more depth.

 Rickfactor wrote:
I use the the AK Interactive Heavy Chipping fluid over a the same Vallejo primer.

While I'm sure it's possible to make Vallejo primer work, it is one of the weakest primers I've personally used so I'm typically inclined to recommend swapping to something more resilient when using techniques that can potentially lift it and damage the paint job.

I gave up on Vallejo primer entirely after a model I spent some 40 or 50 hours on prep, priming, basecoating and masking had chunks taken off it when I removed the masking and then I found a lot of people had the same problem. The model was washed in warm soapy water first, I waited several days between primer and the first layer of paint and then another couple of days between that and masking it.

Maybe it was my fault, maybe I left a couple of finger prints on the model between cleaning it and priming it, I definitely don't deny that.... BUT, since I have swapped away from Vallejo primer I've never had a problem with paint lifting, not even on models I completely forgot to wash, not even on models I masked as soon as I'd finished cleaning my airbrush (instead of waiting days to cure), not even when I used heavier duty masking tape (that people would recommend not using because it would tear up most paints).

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

 Rickfactor wrote:
I use the the AK Interactive Heavy Chipping fluid over a the same Vallejo primer.

I gave up on Vallejo primer entirely after a model I spent some 40 or 50 hours on prep, priming, basecoating and masking had chunks taken off it when I removed the masking and then I found a lot of people had the same problem. The model was washed in warm soapy water first, I waited several days between primer and the first layer of paint and then another couple of days between that and masking it.

That sounds bloody horrible. What are you using as a primer these days?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Rickfactor wrote:

To get the chips, I have a very stiff bristle brush that I have trimmed down to just the nub. It works well to get big patches or scratch marks. If you use just a regular brush to apply water, you may be saturating too large an area. I also use hot water and paint it on in a few areas, wait 20 seconds and start chipping. I used to try to apply the base coat/highlight and do the chipping in the same day while it was still fresh but it still works even after it dries overnight.

Once you have finished your chipping, let the model dry overnight as well. I sometimes will come back in and paint a bit darker rust in the center of each chip to get even more depth.

How warm of water, tap warm or re-shape resin warm? You paint the water on the section you wanna chip like a thin was then go to town chipping?

Hot tap water. I just paint it on and scrub it off with a different brush. The "scrub" brush I use has very stiff bristles like a non-soft toothbrush. There are two versions of the chipping fluid from AK. I use the heavy as I am doing vehicles, walls, etc. If I do anything smaller, I go with the hairspray and salt technique.

Had a take #2 today.

https://m.imgur.com/a/h7Upx

Overall I'm happier about it. I'm still not totally sold. Still having large sections come off but about 80% of it came along well with no damage to the undercoat this time, so thats a bonus. I don't know if I'm gonna keep this up with the rest of my vehicles and reavers. I think I'll make that decision after I get some AK Heavy chipping fluid and give that a shot on one and see the difference, if there is any.

I appreciate all the tips. Another question though. Does the evenness of the chipping fluid coat affect how much it chips and how easy it chips along with how many coats are applied over the chipping fluid?

Thanks again!