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Hello there.

So I was doing quite well with a plague drone, I got to the all over wash part and it really did not go well. I have done washes on a space marine, I found that really easy because it was basically a case of painting into where it was wanted.
The all over wash is not even, i try and touch up and it kind of makes it worse. I was using an army painter monster brush, I had mixed biel tan green, seraphim sepia in equal quantities 4 drops each, 2 drops of vallejo glaze medium and 3 drops of air brush thinner.

I am trying to follow this guide ... http://elementgames.co.uk/painting-tutorials/264-1-day-daemons-how-to-paint-plague-drones step 7 is the issue.If anyone can suggest what type of brush to use or any other tips on how to apply i will be very grateful. thank you

Wide, flat brushes work best for glazing / washing on large areas, just like water colours.

Filberts are wide, flat brushes with a rounded end, also useful. I use mine for drybrushing larger flat areas.

Something like these:



Ideally you want quite soft bristles (not too much 'spring'); this helps the paint get spread rather than get swept or scrubbed off the surface.

Oh that is fortunate that a washing brush is also good for glazing as I need to get one of those too, as you probably remember from the thread about pre-shading.
PS what sort of fibres are on those daler rowney filbert and flat shader please. pps: or better yet what range are they from.

Pretty sure they're synthetic, got them in a bargain set of brushes for £5 at hobbycraft.

Edit: the difference between a wash and a glaze is down to how much you load the brush mostly. Too much and it'll run/flood like a wash. Much less and it'll go on even like a glaze. Using a thicker medium (add glaze medium or clear rather than water) at the paint is more opaque and less susceptible to flood with more in the brush, but it's good practice to just use water and learn the brush control.

winterdyne wrote:
Pretty sure they're synthetic, got them in a bargain set of brushes for £5 at hobbycraft.

Edit: the difference between a wash and a glaze is down to how much you load the brush mostly. Too much and it'll run/flood like a wash. Much less and it'll go on even like a glaze. Using a thicker medium (add glaze medium or clear rather than water) at the paint is more opaque and less susceptible to flood with more in the brush, but it's good practice to just use water and learn the brush control.

thanks again, i went for a couple of system 3 from daler-rowney. I should get a mini i don't really like, to practice things like this on, i poked through the surface of painting and caught a glimpse of this mysterious arcane universe thats part of the fun of modelling, so many things to learn. It will never get boring but it will get frustrating lol.

Textured plasticard is great for practicing by the way, as are really cheap airfix etc. kits.

winterdyne wrote:
Textured plasticard is great for practicing by the way, as are really cheap airfix etc. kits.

oh good idea ive got some pastes i need to check out, so i can texture up the plastic card with those practice stuff on them, double trouble.

redid everything and got to the wash stage again, thanks to your tips and brush suggestions, it went on nice and even this time. Seems as long as you use the right pressure and consistency of paint/wash/glaze it's hard to go wrong oh and of course having the correct amount of paint loaded on the brush.