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Hey guys, I have a necron gauss pylon on the way, I was wondering if I need to pin it or is it not as necrssary as more fragile titans?

If so can I have a quick rundown?

Rule of pinning large resin models: when in doubt, pin it. It's much better to do a pin that isn't strictly necessary than to omit a pin and regret it when your model breaks.

At times, a normal pin might not be sufficient, so you might consider looking at small lengths of brass rod to reinforce some joins better.

It's a b**** to transport. I'd magnetize it to the base, if nothing else then just for transport. Use strong magnets, I'm happy with two 1/4" by 1/8" disc magnets on both sides.

The fins on the side of it are easily knocked off and also make it fill annoyingly large space when traveling /storing it. I'd magnetize those too, or at least pin them.

To build on Peregrine's (excellent) suggestions, I'd suggest you use two pins offset side-by-side where space makes this possible on large pieces.

This not only strengthens the joint, but makes it much easier to correctly align the pieces if you want to disassemble it for transport and storage (or for repair, in case of breakage).

For something like the pylon, it'll also prevent the long curved pieces pivoting around a single pin.

torblind wrote:
It's a b**** to transport. I'd magnetize it to the base, if nothing else then just for transport. Use strong magnets, I'm happy with two 1/4" by 1/8" disc magnets on both sides.

The fins on the side of it are easily knocked off and also make it fill annoyingly large space when traveling /storing it. I'd magnetize those too, or at least pin them.

Cheers Tor, I never would have thought to magnetize something that big. I played with magnets for the first time today, and I think I'm going to continue this run of luck and magnetize it. It wont be moving during the games anyway.

Thanks guys!

Cheers!

I'll post some pictures of my magnetization adventures with the pylon when i get home from vacation (I got my model second hand, had to improve on previous, quite poorly done magnetization attempts).

It's not the best model to start earning magnetization experience from, simply from the fact that the magnets needed to hold something that good, are so strong that its tricky to do it well.

I wanted to make sure I had an as good connection as possible between the magnets of the base and the gun, ie no air between, and an as flat angle as possible.

I did the following:

* Prepared a hole for the magnets in the base socket. Used an electric drill with an 8mm drill bit, (my magnets are 1/4"), usually I only ever drill by hand, but these are so large, that a simple electric drill was ok and way faster.

* Filled the hole with some greenstuff, and pressed 2 magnets into it until they were even with the flat surface, and removed excess greenstuff (think I actually used milliput, but same same.

* Let it cure over night

* Prepared a new hole in the bottom of the gun part. dripped some drops of water into it to make the greenstuff not stick. Then squeezed magnets in, removing excess greenstuff. Then while the greenstuff was still fresh I pulled the gun out of the base. This causes the magnets to be torn out and to take the greenstuff with it (which is now a perfect inverse shape of the hole.)

* I then carefully separated the magnets from the socket, keeping the attached greenstuff intact. I know that if I now put the magnets with the greenstuff around it back into the hole, I'll have a perfect connection Let it cure over night

* I didnt wnt to let the greenstuff cure with the two parts connected, in fear that it would attach to the already cured grenstuff of the other part.

* Next day I glued the solid greenstuff shape with magnets inside it, back into the hole, and when cured, I had a perfect connection with the magnets of the base and the gun.


Reading all this it sounds like a lot of trouble, though it wasn't really, it just sounds like a lot when you try to explain it in words.

Should you later have second thoughts or regret or want to redo the magnetization, the model is so big and plain that its perfectly doable to dig the magnets out and redo it better, and easily repair all damage.

torblind wrote:
Cheers!

I'll post some pictures of my magnetization adventures with the pylon when i get home from vacation (I got my model second hand, had to improve on previous, quite poorly done magnetization attempts).

It's not the best model to start earning magnetization experience from, simply from the fact that the magnets needed to hold something that good, are so strong that its tricky to do it well.

I wanted to make sure I had an as good connection as possible between the magnets of the base and the gun, ie no air between, and an as flat angle as possible.

I did the following:

* Prepared a hole for the magnets in the base socket. Used an electric drill with an 8mm drill bit, (my magnets are 1/4"), usually I only ever drill by hand, but these are so large, that a simple electric drill was ok and way faster.

* Filled the hole with some greenstuff, and pressed 2 magnets into it until they were even with the flat surface, and removed excess greenstuff (think I actually used milliput, but same same.

* Let it cure over night

* Prepared a new hole in the bottom of the gun part. dripped some drops of water into it to make the greenstuff not stick. Then squeezed magnets in, removing excess greenstuff. Then while the greenstuff was still fresh I pulled the gun out of the base. This causes the magnets to be torn out and to take the greenstuff with it (which is now a perfect inverse shape of the hole.)

* I then carefully separated the magnets from the socket, keeping the attached greenstuff intact. I know that if I now put the magnets with the greenstuff around it back into the hole, I'll have a perfect connection Let it cure over night

* I didnt wnt to let the greenstuff cure with the two parts connected, in fear that it would attach to the already cured grenstuff of the other part.

* Next day I glued the solid greenstuff shape with magnets inside it, back into the hole, and when cured, I had a perfect connection with the magnets of the base and the gun.


Reading all this it sounds like a lot of trouble, though it wasn't really, it just sounds like a lot when you try to explain it in words.

Should you later have second thoughts or regret or want to redo the magnetization, the model is so big and plain that its perfectly doable to dig the magnets out and redo it better, and easily repair all damage.

And your connection is strong? would you be able to pick it up at the gun and lift the base with it?

Yes, definitely.

Though 1/4 by 1/8 is quite big. 2 on each side gets really strong. I don't use these magnets for anything else except doomsday cannons and ghost ark ribcages

Since the pylon will stand up right and never move, you can probably make due with less and be just as happy.

I wanted it to not get wobbly, it already was when I got it and it annoyed me. Had it been my own sloppy magnetization work I probably wouldn't have cared that much.

Cool I'll get some on order then. Thanks Tor