Ell wrote: Because of this I want to put detail into the models and don't mind spending the time to do so. I've decided to buy a box of tactical marines as my first set as they seem rather accessible compared to more detailed/complex models.
Sounds like a good idea, but remember that you won't get any better at painting complex models by painting easy models. Obviously don't go out buying an expensive imperial knight to start with, but don't be afraid to push yourself. It's the only way to learn.
IMO, you should try practicing glazing and layering on space marines, as they have some great smooth surfaces to experiment with.
Ell wrote:- I was thinking of getting the Essential Citadel Brush Selection kit to start off with (contain M and L basecoating, M shade, S and M layering and an M dry brush as well as an M texture tool for £30)
The whole purpose of a drybrush is to get ruined by being caked with dry paint, so it's pointless to pay that price for them. Get some super cheapo junk brushes at your hobby store for drybushing, and that will be all that you need. Throw them away when they are ruined, and replace them afterwards with brushes of the same dirt cheap price.
GW tools are usually there as a convenience item, and are pretty much identical in quality to the cheaper army painter brushes.
I would recommend picking up army painter brushes as your first brushes for the heavy work, as they are quite good (they also come in sets that are cheaper than citadel).
Master's brush cleaner is what most people use to wash their brushes, so go with that for your cleaning needs.
This video can show you how to keep a good brush point:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9RHiaBLtGw
Make sure to also keep the covers that come with the brushes, as you can put them back on to protect them when not painting.
Ell wrote:Then after painting the marines up the best I can with them, I intend to buy a detail brush from another supplier as I can't justify the cost of GW's. Any suggestions?
I would recommend the Army Painter brushes if you are still looking for good quality, as they are great for what they offer and are identical to citadel brushes, but cheaper. I would recommend getting them in sets, as it's better value.
Ell wrote:After watching videos from channels such as Tabletop Minions and Teri Litorco I know to make a wet palette to conserve paints and that I should probably get a hobby knife, clippers and a file/sander from a craft store to save on cost.
That's perfectly fine. I did the same thing
Ell wrote:- Should I buy citadel plastic glue or gorilla glue?
Neither. For plastic, use Tamiya extra thin cement OR Revel contacta professional glue. Be careful, because it sets quickly!
For metal, any type of super strong glue that you see in those dispensable...uh... I forget the term. Basically they are those glues in mini toothpaste packets that you get in packs for cheap with words like "super bond" and "strong hold". You know what I mean. Those are what you want to use for metal, and I haven't noticed a difference in price. Pick whatever is available to you.
Ell wrote:Does this all seem alright or am I off the mark? I am missing anything essential?
You could pick up a pin vise for drilling into metal miniatures in case you need to pin anything, but I doubt you'll need it for
GW stuff. It's more for those big metal units, like you see in Infinity. Still, it's a valuable tool in a painter's arsenal.
Also, pick up some methylated spirits to strip your miniatures. This allows you to buy stuff off of ebay for practice (or just to save money). Most people on this site will recommend dettol antiseptic, castrol superclean, or simple green for stripping -
This is bad advice.
Meths is significantly cheaper, and it will work in less than an hour vs other products. It's fine with plastic and metal, too. Not sure about resin, so be careful with that. It won't destroy detail unless you leave stuff in it for a week apparently, but I have plastic miniatures sitting in some methylated spirits right now for like their fourth or fifth day, and they're fine. Make sure to use your common sense with vapours by using an old toothbrush and doing your stripping deeds in a well-ventilated room, of course.
This video explains more on why to use methylated spirits:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SsWOYMialA
Ell wrote:I've heard I should wash a sprue with lukewarm water and fairly liquid before working with the plastic, is this true?
Not too sure, but it's more out of habit rather than necessity. You see, you need to wash resin before using it because of the release agent, and so people must also apply this logic to plastic. In all honesty, it will depend on who is making what plastic molds, but it isn't really necessary for plastic.
I don't wash my plastic, if that helps. No need to, and I've even primed metal miniatures second-hand without any issue. But, you must ABSOLUTELY wash resin.
Ell wrote:Would anyone be able to tell me what this cream-like colour is in the paint scheme and what I should use to shade and highlight it with?
There are numerous ways to shading and highlighting. The first thing you learn in miniature painting is that many different painters have different painting styles. Some people completely throw away washes, going for a dark colour, mid colour, and light colour in layers. Others will just slap on a basecoat, wash, and then just call it a day. The reason I am telling you this is because a wash is basically just a watery paint that settles in the recesses of a basecoat to give it a "shade colour" underneath, so don't worry about what specific colour is underneath. Just keep the mid tone in mind, and what colours you would personally use to shade and highlight it.
The cream colour is most likely rakarth flesh, with layering of pallid wych flesh. That's what my citadel mobile app is telling me when it comes to parchment, so it must apply to the shoulder pads too
Ell wrote:- Is there any advice or tutorials for a paint sheme like this where the colours are split down the middle?
Duncan has one, I believe. Sorry I can't be more specific :(
Ell wrote:I realise this is extremely ambitious for a newcomer but I would rather give it a go, do it badly and learn from it than settle for a scheme which doesn't match how I want the marines to look. Plus, as I said I'm looking to be into the modelling/painting side of things more than the actual playing.
I salute you. You have a great attitude, and that attitude will take you far in your painting. Feel free to post more if you ever need help, as everyone here is happy to lend a bit of advice.
Ell wrote:- With this in mind, what paints would you recommend?
Vallejo Model Colour, hands down. Wide variety of colours, and it's cheaper than citadel (yet it has more
ml and it's identical, if not superior quality). As I write this, Citadel has actually added another price increase to their paints, which is yet another reason to ignore citadel. The paint is great, but the price isn't for what it offers.
Ell wrote:- I've heard citadel sprays aren't the best quality so should I undercoat with something else?
I use Vallejo polyurethane black surface primer. You can brush it on by hand quite liberally, and it will shrink onto the miniature. When it comes to spray primers, I don't have the patience to use them properly, but here is a basic video outlining on how to use any spray primer on miniatures:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCenxgOW-fs
Ell wrote:- I was thinking of undercoating the marines grey so I can work down to the cream colour of one side and work up to the dark red of the other.
You personal preference, respectively. I prefer a black undercoat as I go from dark to light, but you do you.
Ell wrote:- Would Vallejo paints do the job or should I stick with citadel or a mix of both? I'm definitely going to be getting some nuln oil or "liquid talent" as I think I'm going to be needing all the help I can get
.
Vallejo will do A-okay, so just find the substitutes or mix the colours you need. If you have any favourites from the citadel range, by all means, include them!
Don't get nuln oil, though, as you can use Army Painter Dark Tone Ink, which is cheaper and comes in larger quantities. It's also identical.
Ell wrote:-Oh, and I know to thin my paints as instructed by Warhammer TV's lord and saviour, Duncan.
Thinning paints is only half the battle. Duncan is good, but if you want to expand your knowledge, here are some very helpful Youtubers to follow for guidance:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtysRnFm_YLNPapiT_NstZ4_oWg5trFRC
https://www.youtube.com/user/SDubist