Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Has anyone used the Vallejo White wash or Pale Gray Shade or Light Grey wash? I am looking for a a wash to shade white fatigues (not armor). Think snow theme cadians for the cloth parts.
If anyone has a way to paint white cloth that isnt, layer up from grey with 5 coats i would love to here it.

How does it dry? Does it pool bad? General thoughts? Pics of models with the colors used would be welcomed as well.

These are the three in questions. I plan to use the Panzer Aces Splinter Camo as base color with a an off white drybrush to highlight the wrinkles in the cloth then use a wash to get the recesses.

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Pale-Gray-Wash-17ml/dp/B001TLRUXO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=pale+grey+shade&qid=1568901492&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ76501-White-Wash-35ml/dp/B00AOL8IKY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=vallejo+white+wash&qid=1568901508&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Light-Grey-Wash-35ml/dp/B00AOL8GVU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=vallejo+white+wash&qid=1568901516&s=gateway&sr=8-2

White wash is bright white and not useful for shading, more for snow and ice / frost effects.

Vallejo wash is stronger than Citadel washes, they tint the models more.

The grey wash for Cadian fatigues on white could work but I think the grey is not dark enough to create depth. Especially when the armor is a bit darker. It won't work on vehicles.

I would think that GW contrast paint is a better solution. More contrast.

White is not easy to paint.

White is surprisingly easy actually. Pure White is crap and should never be put on a model as a primary color. I even hesitate to use pure white for spot highlights because of how it works.

First..

Pick your white:
Cool- Your shade is blue, your base color is a blue-white-grey (like Celestra Grey or the Space wolf highlight color for a more blue). Your wash is going to be a blue for a strong COLD grey or a mix of grey and blue washes (or Citadel Contrast!.. thinned) for a "cool" grey. Highlight will be Uluthan
Grey and then Ulthuan Grey + White 50/50.


Neutral White: New Corax White (which is actually neutral grey) Shade with thinned Grey Contrast, high light with 50/50 white/corax. Always thin bright colors with a medium rather than just pure water, helps reduce chalky effect.

Warm Grey offers a lot of options. But you want to start out with something like Wraith Bone or Screaming Skull, shade with thinned skeleton horde and highlight with pallid witch flesh then 50/50 pallid witch + white. This will make an slightly off white antique white look, possibly porcelain white.



To make it universal

Cold: very light blue-grey base, shade with blue/grey mix, highlight with even fainter blue-grey-white mix

Neutral- light medium gray (needs to be neutral grey!), shade with slightly darker neutral grey, highlight with white-neutral grey mix

Warm- very light tan or flesh tone or bone, shade with a sepia like shade, highlight with a very pale flesh with white

I've had some success with Vajello Game Color Cold Grey, washed with Citadel Contrast Apothecary White, worked up with Cold grey and Vajello Game Color Dead White.