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Made in no
Liche Priest Hierophant





Bergen

I sometimes get this problem. But on today's batch it was profound.

Why does it crackle so much?

[Thumb - PXL_20230905_070737865~2.jpg]


   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Moustache-twirling Princeps





Gone-to-ground in the craters of Coventry

Was the model fully dry before spraying?

6000 pts - Harlies: 1000 pts - 4000 pts - 1000 pts - 1000 pts DS:70+S+G++MB+IPw40k86/f+D++A++/cWD64R+T(T)DM+
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"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw (probably)
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Made in no
Liche Priest Hierophant





Bergen

Yes. They stayed over night.

How ever as I live in Bergen, Norways most rainy city, could it be the most in the air? I did them in the garage underneath a roof. However the rain today is more like a cloud then water droplets.

I always suspected it could be oil on the figure from the printing. But does water do this?

I will just paint over with a brush.

   
Made in gb
Crafty Bray Shaman




Anor Londo

Yes, the amount of moisture in the air will definitely affect spray paints.

Good luck with any re-sprays!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2023/09/05 09:26:41


 
   
Made in it
Master Engineer with a Brace of Pistols





Northumberland

High humidity will affect your spraying, and Citadel white spray is particularly affected by it.

One and a half feet in the hobby


My Painting Log of various minis:
# Olthannon's Oscillating Orchard of Opportunity #

 
   
Made in no
Liche Priest Hierophant





Bergen

Well most of it is white. I will just go over with a brush I think.

   
Made in gb
Angry Chaos Agitator






There's always so many explainations for the failures opf GW spray cans; not shaken, humidity, temperature etc. etc.

Bottom line is: they aren't very good sprays. They are very temperamanetal and inconsistent.

don't buy them if you can avoid it

my two pennies

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2023/09/05 13:02:04


 
   
Made in no
Liche Priest Hierophant





Bergen

This really went to hell. Did another pass at them today when they where dry and the rain had stopped. But all of them are backed - the details are obscured. And you can see the cracks from before still there. Hard to make out eyes, ridges etc.

   
Made in gb
Storm Trooper with Maglight





Re-undercoating a bad undercoat rarely goes well. A bit late to tell you that now, I know.

When undercoating, especially with GW sprays, it’s worth bearing in mind the humidity of where you are. This can be looked up on Google. Just because it stops raining doesn’t necessarily mean that the humidity levels are right for spraying. Humidity should be about 40% to 50%.
   
Made in us
Veteran Knight Baron in a Crusader





Too humid. I live in Florida where it's always 80%+. I use my spare bathroom to prime. Just turn on the vent fans, do a couple quick passes, and leave the room. It's 74F and 45% humidity which works great. I haven't had a bad result with any sprays since I moved my priming indoors in the AC.
   
Made in no
Dakka Veteran




As someone living on the west coast of Sweden I suspect we have pretty similar weather to Bergen. I never spray outside anymore. Either too high humidity or its too windy. Maybe a couple of days in the summer where it is both dry and no wind but not exactly worth it to wait up to 11 month just to prime some minis. I mostly spray in the building's cellar/storage or in an empty area next to our gaming club (which is in a huge basement of a small mall so lots of unused indoor space). About same temperature and humidity year round so perfect for using spray paints.

If you can't find a good indoor location to use rattle can sprays I would go over to either airbrush primers or just normal brush on primers. Not worth the cost and headache to try to use expensive cans if you don't have a good place for it.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





shmvo wrote:
There's always so many explainations for the failures opf GW spray cans; not shaken, humidity, temperature etc. etc.

Bottom line is: they aren't very good sprays. They are very temperamanetal and inconsistent.

don't buy them if you can avoid it

my two pennies


Have you tried the current batch of GW sprays? I wanted to hate them, so I tried every other brand I could easily get my hands on in the land of Oz, Liquitex, Montana Gold, Montana Black, Vallejo, Tamiya, I even went down the road of swapping caps around to see if it was a cap issue as I know different caps produce different results... and I circled back around to GW being my go to, even if it is more expensive than the others. Well, I also like Tamiya, but that's even more expensive than GW, and more appropriate for scale models than wargaming models.

The GW sprays seem to be at a higher pressure than all of the above, and get better atomisation so the "dot" size on the model is smaller. I've used them in a range of weathers and only got a bad result once when it was cold and humid and I didn't preheat the can and left the model outside in the cold for a few minutes before spraying it which I think meant moisture was a problem.

Maybe they are more susceptible than others to humid weather, depending on the solvents and atomisation I could believe that, but they're far from bad sprays.

Anyway, to the original question.... if the weather is bad then I make sure I preheat the can, step outside, spray them, and immediately step back inside. If the weather is REALLY bad, then I spray inside but use a fan at an open window to blow the fumes straight outside. Be careful, because spray cans produce a much larger cloud of paint than airbrushes normally do, so be aware of what's behind the model when spraying and extraction hoods designed for airbrushes may not be capable of containing the cloud of paint from a spray can. That's why I just use a regular and reasonably powerful fan rather than my airbrush station.
   
 
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