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I just bought a Dremel tool, as it should come in handy for a few gunsmithing operations and to do small works a grinder or such won't be precise enough to do, and I got wondering: can a Dremel be of some use in modelling as well? Does anyone use one?

I've got one, and tend to find that even on the slowest settings it's too much for plastic.

I never owned a Dremel, but I found that a cheap, low powered rotary tool like you sometimes get in the supermarket (got mine from LIDL in Germany for 25 €) is pretty useful for drilling, sanding and also cutting of bigger stuff.

Back when metal models were the norm, they were incredibly useful. Not used mine on plastic.

As Nevelon said, they’re bloody good on metal models.

But if like you’re working mainly if not exclusively in plastic and perhaps the odd resin piece? Less so, because the materials are soft enough that a Dremel feels like overkill.

For resin, it's not just useless it's outright dangerous. Dremels create a lot of dust, and you do NOT want resin dust around.

For plastic minis, it has uses here and there, but as has been said they can be overkill in a lot of places. Even at it's lowest setting Dremel type tools can easily build up enough heat to melt plastic.

For metal minis they're priceless.

As to precision, that depends entirely on how steady your hand is, and how small the tool bit your using is.

When I converted the IOB high elves to DE, my dremel was quite useful for removing bows and HE iconography, but required a very delicate touch to pull off.

Yes it is amazing, I use it to cut inlays. Drill barrels etc. Worth it.

I'd say rotary tool, yes- Dremel, no. B/C Dremel has parts that are proprietary so you have to use THEIR bits with it.
I have a Chicago rotary #40457 that has 3 speeds I bought from Harbor Freight that has lasted me forever. I want to get a keyless chuck so's I can swap whatever I need in. Up at the college, they have these nice flex shaft tools for Metals (Jewelry).. buuuuut they're a bit on the expensive side.

Yes, it is very useful in the hobby when you do conversion work.
2 Dremel tools (battery and corded) burned out on me fairly quickly when I was making some knifes, so now I get cheap cheap rotary tools and don't waste money on the Dremel brand. But yes, Dremel tool is useful in the hobby, Especially with the cord/pen attachment.

The tool I am using here is from WEN.







Automatically Appended Next Post:

 TheChrispyOne wrote:
I'd say rotary tool, yes- Dremel, no. B/C Dremel has parts that are proprietary so you have to use THEIR bits with it.
I have a Chicago rotary #40457 that has 3 speeds I bought from Harbor Freight that has lasted me forever. I want to get a keyless chuck so's I can swap whatever I need in. Up at the college, they have these nice flex shaft tools for Metals (Jewelry).. buuuuut they're a bit on the expensive side.

Oh yeah, HarborFreight is the beezkneez. I have 2 of those $7 Warriors, still work.
As of today -

And something new... damn it, should of stayed away, now I want it.

I've had 3 or 4 Dremels over the last 25 years, you don't have to use "their" bits. Any 1/8" shank bit works, and they make an adjustable collet for drill bits.

Nowadays, I don't use it as much for hobbying, but there's a round carbide cutter/engraving bit that's REALLY useful for making holes in necks for headswaps. Also a 2" sanding pad disc with various grits of sandpaper is super useful for removing puddle bases and flatening the bottoms of feet when you want to remove tactical rocks. The .95mm carbide milling bits I buy in bulk for pinning have a 1/8" shank and I use them in both the Dremel and in a regular pin vise, depending on how precise I want the hole.

So yes, they are very useful, but only occasionally. Get a basic corded model like the 3000 series (or generic equivelant), my first one was cordless and it was worthless even with a spare battery. My current one I've had for over 15 years, bought the one that came with a flex shaft attachment. The Dremel stays plugged in at my hobby desk 24/7, the flex shaft hasn't left the storage case in probably 14 years.

I build my sci Fi terrain from toys and the Dremel is amazing. The 543 cutting/shaping bit is the key. It's a steel disc with cutouts and abrasive. It's an expensive bit at nearly 20 bucks but it lasts for years.


You can easily cut even thick plastic toys apart and then smooth the edges with the side of the blade. You can also easily add dings and gouges and with a soft touch even add a bit of surface texture.

A Dremel loaded with a 543 hangs at my workbench always.

 Eilif wrote:
I build my sci Fi terrain from toys and the Dremel is amazing. The 543 cutting/shaping bit is the key. It's a steel disc with cutouts and abrasive. It's an expensive bit at nearly 20 bucks but it lasts for years.


You can easily cut even thick plastic toys apart and then smooth the edges with the side of the blade. You can also easily add dings and gouges and with a soft touch even add a bit of surface texture.

A Dremel loaded with a 543 hangs at my workbench always.

Now that you're saying it, the cheap plastic crap toys I bought for trash terraini'g could probably use a Dremel instead of the metal saw I used this far.

Great insight so far, I see I probably didn't waste my money on this!

I use mine a fair bit. Sure a pin vice can do most jobs on plastic, the dremel is just quicker.

 Maréchal des Logis Walter wrote:

 Eilif wrote:

A Dremel loaded with a 543 hangs at my workbench always.

Now that you're saying it, the cheap plastic crap toys I bought for trash terraini'g could probably use a Dremel instead of the metal saw I used this far.

Great insight so far, I see I probably didn't waste my money on this!

For sure! I formerly used saws as well. The time savings is immense. The regular disposable cutoff wheels can cut plastic too, but they're not as effective and the smaller radius makes the angle a bit less effective. They are thinner though and will preserve more of the material you are cutting.

The 543 is the best plastic cutting/chewing bit I've found, but know that with it you're always going to lose 2-4mm of material.

Yey, Just as with the stander angle grinder or saw, one should be wary to factor in the width of the blade into the numbers!

For mold lines and burrs on big plastic kits (Sector Mechanicus), the Dremel is good for quick removals.

I'd be VERY careful using a dremel to remove mold lines; one slip and you've obliterated some bit of detail.

These models don't have a lot fo details, especially in the large flat areas I use the rotary for.
But yes, caution is required.

One other use, a gaming acquaintance I knew said he would use his Dremel to polish metal figures before painting. IIRC, he said it gave him a better painting surface.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Maréchal des Logis Walter wrote:
Yey, Just as with the stander angle grinder or saw, one should be wary to factor in the width of the blade into the numbers!

Indeed. With a Dremel -especially a steel bit like the 543- some of the cutting action is often also melting. Not a problem for the sort of Toybashing I do, but that can result in an additional couple millimeters of lost material.

Luckily, after the initial cut, the 543 can be gently pushed sideways against the cut to smooth the surface and whisk away the melted material.

 Eilif wrote:
One other use, a gaming acquaintance I knew said he would use his Dremel to polish metal figures before painting. IIRC, he said it gave him a better painting surface.

In fact, theoretically, plastic and even metal surfaces should always be either polished and/or degreased before painting or even applying primer! Although when it comes to modelling, I'm myself guilty of not doing it

When I get time I'm my hands to carry on trash terraining, I'll definitely try to give the dremel a go as plastic toys cutter. But right now, I'm restoring a gun, angling the roof of a garden hut, making locker mounts for a shelf... I'm all over the place