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Made in gb
Plummeting Black Templar Thunderhawk Pilot





Wisbech

Looking for inspiration/tips with painting a pink dress on a bretonnian prophetess.

I've never painted pink before, so I've no idea where to start. Want to go for a really pale pink, like it's a really light, thin material.
   
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Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Tangentville, New Jersey

Okay, for starters, I prime everything black, but that's just me. I build up several coats of Screamer Pink for a good base and then drybrush with Fulgrim Pink:



I'm sure there's probably all kinds of contrast paints and speed paints you could use, but I figure this is a good place for you to start.


 
   
Made in gb
Plummeting Black Templar Thunderhawk Pilot





Wisbech

Oooh.

The shading is maybe a little dark for my tastes, but as a starting point that's great!

Looking at that, I might skip the screamer pink, start with straight fulgrim, give it a light wash for the shading and to darken it all, then drybrush with fulgrim.
You've given me a good place to try from!!
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User






Saw this one a while a go while looking through a site, it's not pink but shows an example of super thin material, you can see the skin underneath.

https://www.elgrecominiatures.co.uk/collections/songs-of-war/products/idril-wisdom-star-bust

pinterest might have some examples, I can't go on there at the moment I'm afraid or I'll be there for hours looking at awesome painted mini's saving pics for later to try out.
   
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Buttons Should Be Brass, Not Gold!






Soviet Kanukistan

To OP: I was given the following advice for highlights and shadows:

Colour Value is how close to white / black a colour is: They indicated that while traditional guidance is "go to white, go to black" for highlights / shadows... this only works for colours which sit in the middle of the value chart. If you are highlighting / shading a light colour, the number of jumps in values to white is few, while the jumps in value are high - in order for the light midtone to not be overpowered by the shadow, it becomes necessary to shade an equal number of jumps in values from your midtone to the highlight.

e.g. - for the red midtone, you'd jump up and down one stage, assuming you're highlighting to white... for the green midtone, you'd jump up and down two stages (H = highlight, S = Shadow), assuming you are highlighting to white.



I painted this zombie with a very light colored dress a few years ago. It was the first time I was trying to enact the guidance I had received on controlling value. The shadows are very light. The colour control isn't quite there and IMHO, some of the shadows are still too dark.



Here's the same model desaturated to remove all hue (colour) leaving only the values. This shows how the model will "actually" read from a light/dark perspective.



Hope this helps. Happy painting!
   
 
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