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 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
The high points on the steel blade edge are good, but I would say that they should form entire sections where the flat of the blade also has the light area if this makes sense.

Thanks. So do you mean widen the brightest white highlights? Then maybe widen the mid tone towards the shade?

Jamie Shred wrote:
He is looking awesome Maxwin.

Think im finished with the nmm steel. What do you guys and girls think?

Hilt looks fantastic. Would add some more greys and whites to the upper flat of the blade to accentuate. I tend to use daler rowney or liquitex inks to do the smooth color transitions so they may help

Cheers Freya, i think thats what QAR was suggesting too so will give it a go.

Yeah the lights need to be on the flat of the blade rather than just the edges. I like to 'checkerboard my light areas too, so where there's light on one side of the blade, the corresponding opposite side would be dark, then have most of the blade edge white to show the sharpness.

Almost completed now, just some more layers into the gems and anything I think needs a bit of tlc which I'll do tomorrow then its paintbrush down for a good couple of months sadly.

I'm calling the iron golem finished. I think I'll lose my mind if I work on it any longer:



There are some more photos and a little bit of discussion in my P&M Blog. I need to get some better photos for my final update, though.

 JoshInJapan wrote:
I'm calling the iron golem finished. I think I'll lose my mind if I work on it any longer:



There are some more photos and a little bit of discussion in my P&M Blog. I need to get some better photos for my final update, though.

Amazing! @w@

@Josh stellar work man! You’re definitely getting better at it looking forward to the final picks.

Proof that the whole model is built and primed:

Death Korps of Krieg sentinel conversion (enamel weathering and new brushes, including a set of makeup brushes):


Heavily inspired by the artwork from Scythe and Iron Harvest 1920+.

Gotta hustle if I aim to finish it in time and practice some enamel weathering at the same time.

Edit: listed the new techniques as well, so they are all in one post.

Week to go!
Keep the momentum up everyone, we got this!


Any ideas for the final round of this cycle? February is up for debate, and then we return to the classic Space Marine to reboot the new round in March.

Well, Wayland Games have certainly screwed me for this month's entry. Word to the wary, if they say 'Restock expected: Available to Order' don't bother. I was promised their shipment was expected to arrive 'mid-week' - that was 2 months ago and 2 weeks ago for 2 separate orders I, and a family member, have placed - both yet to arrive. Understandably Covid has had an effect, but their copy-paste assurances are misleading. Anyway, rant over - I'll be voting, but I'll have to withdraw my entry for this month (Unless I can enter it next month....?)

The snakey guy is done.


This Grey Bones material is much better than the older White Bones. Some details on the head and the quiver were a bit indistinct, but overall the level of detail is comparable to older plastics. The limbs and bow, being slim parts, are bendy, but there was no distortion on my figure. I didn't find any mould lines. The material is "grippy" enough that I could push-fit some parts, but I had to superglue others. There is a noticeable seam between the upper and lower body that would have been easy to fill with poly cement if this had been HIPS. Overall the is a good enough material, but I still prefer HIPS or white metal.

Base-coating with Reaper's Brown Liner paint worked surprisingly well. It flows well and gives good single-coat coverage. I'll be investigating these Liner paints further.

Final images are in the spoiler.

Might try and squeeze in some nicer pics before the end of the month, but here's something at least. Vampire Lord from Bloody Sword Miniatures, on a base from Basic Aid. Following Freya's excellent lead I too went for a limited palette approach as the trick, the Vampire itself is done with a total of 7 paints (Vallejo inks in brown, red, purple, green, blue and skin tone, and a white paint for mixing highlights ). The base I did use a few more on, but there's a bonus trick there as I took a shot at stained glass... which I feel I missed the mark on quite spectacularly, but an attempt was made!

Overall, it's not quite the muted, unsettling Gothic Horror vibe I was shooting for, but I think the style and base still sell a nice narrative for him. Bonus pic with a couple of the Hunters I did back in November, probably about to realise that hunting Vampires was a terrible career choice.

Hi all, I'm loving some of the work I've seen so far this month. Keep up the good work.

I've been chipping away at my own chaplin but work took a hit when I damaged the model by dropping the book that sits on the top of the bike. I then rolled my chair over it busting it good and proper. Took me about a week to work out a suitable replacement and look at it again.

Get it fixed I did though and manged to put in a few hours. Still much work to be done in the last week but I'm a lot more positive about him.



I still need to wash a few things and the chaplin needs some highlights on himself but I'm actually quite happy with how he's coming together. Also I got a new set of brushes in which I'm loking forward to uisng.

Cheers. K

@ Paradigm: Room for improvement maybe, but your miss is not as spectacular as you think. While not looking particularly translucent, the stained glass certainly reads as stained glass rather than, say, a mural. Stained glass relies on external illumination for its appearance, so maybe its just dark outside in you vignette? The vampire is awesome though.

@ kryczek: It's a neat fix, and now you have a unique bike. Are you planning to drill out the bolter barrels?

 Nevelon wrote:
Any ideas for the final round of this cycle? February is up for debate, and then we return to the classic Space Marine to reboot the new round in March.

How about something like "Function over Form"? Basically models that aren't really showy, but rather brutally efficient and/or ugly, yet strong. Could include nearly any Space Marine vehicle, most Ork stuff, or anything else that looks to be designed to be functional rather than overly decorative.

Or, perhaps, "Soldiers of Fortune". The theme would be irregular forces that are more likely to fight for the highest bidder rather than taking up the cause of an empire or nation.

Just some ideas.

Here are my troglodytes. These are Tom Meier sculpts from 1983. They're currently available from Ral Partha Legacy.

My new technique here was to undercoat in black, drybrush gray, drybrush white, then wash with brown. I think it turned out pretty well for a quickpainting technique!

@Pariah Press: Nice troglodytes. I think I have a few of those somewhere at the bottom of a box. Speaking of which, how about "paint something you've had lying around for a long time" as the theme for February. It would bookend nicely with this month's theme, and every hobbyist has something that's been waiting for attention.

@Turaxa: Thanks and yes I think I will. Hadn't thought about it till you mentioned it.

Had a crack at widening the highlights onto the blade edge. Is this along the lines of what you were describing QAR and Freya? Made a start on the nmm gold too, it seems easier than steel but thats probably because im using it on small parts. As always feedback is most welcome and appreciated.

Lovely Cape work there

Jamie Shred wrote:
Had a crack at widening the highlights onto the blade edge. Is this along the lines of what you were describing QAR and Freya? Made a start on the nmm gold too, it seems easier than steel but thats probably because im using it on small parts. As always feedback is most welcome and appreciated.

I'm obviously not an authority on the technique, but I think you should extend the highlights all the way to the centerline of the blade.

Well, this is me:

3D printed/reaper bones, part painting translucent models. Playing with marbling, too. Fairly happy.

Poll for February:
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/795661.page#11040668

Here are my final photos:







No new work on the model itself, but I did adjust the contrast and color balance for these photos. As usual, all I see are the flaws. Lessons learned:

1) I need to get over my unreasonable fear of contrast. NMM need to go from black to white and I've never been able to make myself paint with that broad a range. I'll try to work higher contrast into my work from now on.

2) Blending takes a long time, especially on flat surfaces, but the results are worth the time. It's not like I don't have enough painted models to play pretty much any game I already own, so I'll be spending a little more time blending my layers from now on.

3) I need to think more about light. This model is a mish-mash of shapes and surfaces, and I think I got the highlights generally correct, but they don't like up very well from part to part.

All in all, this was a mostly-successful second attempt at NMM. I still need a lot of practice,but it's not as scary as it was before I started.

Another nights work done, a few washes and some more highlighting done. And I broke him again but hey now it's an excuse for a conversion methinks.



Lots of tidying still to do but I'll get to that tomorrow.

Cheers, K

kryczek wrote:
Another nights work done, a few washes and some more highlighting done. And I broke him again but hey now it's an excuse for a conversion methinks.



Lots of tidying still to do but I'll get to that tomorrow.

Cheers, K

Looking good. The skull helmet is particularly well done.

@Jamie Shred - He's looking good, NMM can be tricky, I sometimes use photoshop to try things out before painting and as has been said before you should try to have the shaded transition on the whole flat surface like this, keep up the good work!


I thought Abaddon had a lot of gold detailing, Roboute said 'hold my flaming sword'
Almost done, probably another day shading and highlighting the blue and gold...

Cheers maxwin, that photo shop really helps. I feel your pain with gullimans gold trim as i painted him up a few years ago.

That Photoshop is what I was trying to explain. It shows the checkerboard effect I was getting at. I would have a line of pure white in the middle of each lit section too, perpendicular to the blade edge.