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Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




United States of England

Hi Guys

I'm relatively new to the whole miniatures painting arena! these are my first tries at painting some Marines. Please let me know what you think!!

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/delephont/DSCF0007-3.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/delephont/DSCF0006-2.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/delephont/DSCF0011-4.jpg


Man down, Man down.... 
   
Made in de
Rampaging Carnifex






Franconia

I've eaten enough Ultras to tell you, you should clean your minis better before you paint them. No critics on the paint job.

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Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




United States of England

What do you mean by clean? removing mould lines?

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Clean those mold lines off next time. You're clearly putting a lot of time and effort into the painting, so you might as well clean the minis up first.
   
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Eternally-Stimulated Slaanesh Dreadnought





Up your nose with a rubber hose.

Yeah, make sure you clean those mold lines, but honestly (especially for a first outing) the paint job is so well done, I doubt too many people will notice. Good stuff, especially the fellow with the axe.


"Don't have much use for a poop droid." - Iorek
"Elusive has a bloodhound like capacity for finding hugely ugly minis." - tortoise
 
   
Made in us
[ADMIN]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Los Angeles, CA

Posted By Delephont on 02/13/2007 10:00 AM

Hi Guys

I'm relatively new to the whole miniatures painting arena! these are my first tries at painting some Marines. Please let me know what you think!!




Relatively new? What the heck does that mean?

Your painting is better than 85% of experienced miniature painters out there, so what kind of background do you come from where you can bust that sort of quality out without experience? I'm curious.

In case you couldn't tell: I'm very impressed with your paint jobs. My first models looked like they were crapped out of a dog that eat a bunch of paint:

 

 


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Made in gb
Stern Iron Priest with Thrall Bodyguard




The drinking halls of Fenris or South London as its sometimes called

Thats some sweet painting. How did you do the Blue? I love the highlights.

R.I.P Amy Winehouse


 
   
Made in us
Tunneling Trygon





I like the highlighting, it's very aggressive to go to white like that, but it works nicely.



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Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Alexandria, VA

wow. you either: a) spent a huge amount of time reading tutorials/guides or b) you are some sort of art student. very good job either way, even if i'm wrong.

yakface: You know that terminator still has a place in your heart....
   
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Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

One critique... lose the red on the storm bolter. Red on such a dark figure with white hilighting should be an accent color (such as on purity seals). It's one of the peeves I've always had about the older Ultra color schemes. Incidently, the UM Terminators in the Codex are older plastics and not the new stuff. That's why the have the old color scheme.

Perhaps a bit more silver incorporated into the terminator model somehow since that's the secondary color of the 1st company.

 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




United States of England

Thanks for the pointers guys, its much appreciated! As for the mould lines, you know I can get so bloody heavy handed that I'm affraid to remove detail by filing out mould lines. If anyone has any pointers on how to do this without scrubbing the featires or details please let me know!

In terms of the "quality"...LOL....I find that most of the work is done by the miniature itself, in terms of raised detail etc. I know that older miniatures didn't have as much detail as the more modern ones and painting those would have been hard! I did try to follow the "How to paint Space Marines" guide, but its really pants...its like its written for kids who are happy to achieve a "so so" gaming standard of paint apps. I was looking for display standard, so I actually went out and bought a few "pro painted" miniatures and tried to learn from them. Theres a load of techniques I'd like to master like Non Metallics and dipping for example.

Breotan
Yeah I see your point about the red, in my own personal taste though it does stand out. What colour would you suggest for the bolter?

Beef
I start with a Chaos black undercoat, then a base coat of Regal Blue. I then add a broad highlight of Ultramarine blue. Next up for the main highlights is a smattering of Ice Blue ( where the light would fall ) finally finished with a line of Skull White.

Man down, Man down.... 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




Hi Delephont

These are very nicely painted. Well done.

With regard to the mould lines, yes people are right that you should remove them, however with painting like this you can get away with it for the first batch. The mould lines on these photos are very subtle and not hugely noticable.

The best way to carefully remove a mould line on a plastic figure (incidently the easiest to remove mould lines from , metals a bit tricker, and resin is a b*tch)  Is to take a scapel blade and hold it horizontally with the cutting edge facing down and carefully run it along the mould line. By drawing/dragging the sharp blade over the surface you can shave off the mould line without eating into the figure.

Don't try to slice into the mould line with the blade pointing either towards or away from you as your likely to cut into the model at the same time. If you use the above method dragging the blade across the surface you will naturally stop at any areas of raised detail as the raised sections will act a s a brake and stop you.

This is the easiest and quickest way i've found. The key is to use very light pressure when skimming the surface, you don't need to push too hard into the model.

I'm looking forward to seeing more. And don't forget that ultimately they are your models. So use the colours you like. But if your thinking of different colours for the bolter casings (personally i dig the old school vibe) you could try black which is the " in vogue" colour of the moment.  

Edit: Don't use files to file the mould lines off as you will end up scratching away other surface detail. If you run a scapel blade over a recessed detail (such as armour plating lines) then you won't remove that detail at all.

   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




United States of England

Gundammecha

Thanks, I'll definately try this on the next group of warriors, after all, if I'm gona spend the time on these guys I may as well go all the way!

Thanks again
Delephont

Man down, Man down.... 
   
Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

Posted By Delephont on 02/14/2007 1:39 AM

Breotan
Yeah I see your point about the red, in my own personal taste though it does stand out. What colour would you suggest for the bolter?


I like black casing with metal parts for my Marine weapons.  It's one of the easy ways to help bring a cohesive look to your army should you incorporate variant colors somehow.  For example, I'm working on a Deathwatch Kill Team, but instead of painting them all black with chapter colors on a shoulder pad, I'm leaving them in their "original" chapter colors and using the Deathwatch shoulder pad, bolter, and base to tie them together visually on the table.  Chaplains, Apothecaries, Techmarines, and other special models will be painted differently from your basic dark blue marines and the weapon colors I described go nicely with all of them, regardless of how their armor is colored.  This shows on pages 58 & 59 of the Space Marine codex.

But this is only my opinion and if you have something you like better, then the right decision is obviously to go with what you want.


 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut






Excellent start!

Welcome to the hobby



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Made in au
Lethal Lhamean






These are awesome, first ultras Ive seen that I really like..
   
 
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