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Made in de
Regular Dakkanaut




My main army are necrons, and in stark contrast to having only a handful of resilient troops, I decided to build up a 'nid swarm army. Problem is, I don't really have the time needed to paint 100+ figures. So I looked for ways to speed up the painting process while still getting a good end result. I finished my first test termagaunt yesterday and would like to hear your comments and thoughts before I finalize on what I've got here. I like the green/bone scheme a lot, I'm not too sure about the base though; I've got a cityfight table in the works and want my 'nids to have fitting bases, but can't decide on wether I should go for grey or black base rims.



   
Made in us
Veteran Wolf Guard Squad Leader






Minneapolis

Black IMO, i think that would look pretty sharp.

The Carrion Corsairs - A Dark Eldar P&M Blog

Know thine enemy.
You are known to him already

* Sermon Primaris, the Ordo Xenos

 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Tilter at Windmills






Manchester, NH

I agree with FPS that a black rim will look sharper. It allows for a clear differentiation between the completed base surface and its edge. Having them the same color looks sloppier and unfinished, IMO.

The exception to this is if you just intend to use the figures on one table at home, and are matching the bases to that table surface. In that case, having the edges and surface blend together is best, and adds to the illusion that the figure is standing on the table surface.

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Made in de
Regular Dakkanaut




I decided to go with a lighter green instead of the dark one, and think it looks lots better now. Gonna do the bases with black rims as you guys suggested, but I didn't start working on them yet.



   
Made in us
Veteran Wolf Guard Squad Leader






Minneapolis

I like it, that army is gonna look real slick on the field.

The Carrion Corsairs - A Dark Eldar P&M Blog

Know thine enemy.
You are known to him already

* Sermon Primaris, the Ordo Xenos

 
   
Made in eu
Infiltrating Broodlord





Mordheim/Germany

Jup, I really like dipped nids, makes me jealous inside and all.

Greets
Schepp himself

40k:
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Made in us
Crazed Witch Elf




Albuquerque, NM

Really good looking. Isn't there a technique to reduce the shine? Like a Matt varnish or something?

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Made in us
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin





Livermore, Ca

how do you dip nids?
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Oniwaban






Looks great! Of course, I'm doing the exact same scheme, dipped and all.

If you can find any old Camo Green spray on the web, it will speed your painting process up quite a bit. I've found none (got it from an FLGS), but you could try forums too.

And thank you for the demonstration of the right base color! I was going to go with a desert or jungle theme with a reddish rock, but the urban color contrasts much better.

Infinity: Way, way better than 40K and more affordable to boot!

"If you gather 250 consecutive issues of White Dwarf, and burn them atop a pyre of Citadel spray guns, legend has it Gwar will appear and answer a single rules-related question. " -Ouze 
   
Made in us
Prescient Cryptek of Eternity





Mayhem Comics in Des Moines, Iowa

It pained to be massive ends when I found out the Camo Green spray was only a temperary item, given I'd been base coating all of my `Nids with it. I am NOT base coating that many gaunts by hand, been unable to find another spray that decently matched the Camo Green, and has pretty much made me stop painting my `Nids.

 
   
Made in us
Veteran Wolf Guard Squad Leader






Minneapolis

Aduro wrote:It pained to be massive ends when I found out the Camo Green spray was only a temperary item, given I'd been base coating all of my `Nids with it. I am NOT base coating that many gaunts by hand, been unable to find another spray that decently matched the Camo Green, and has pretty much made me stop painting my `Nids.


Quit cryin' its called a tank brush.

The Carrion Corsairs - A Dark Eldar P&M Blog

Know thine enemy.
You are known to him already

* Sermon Primaris, the Ordo Xenos

 
   
Made in nz
Raging Ravener





There's nothing new under the sun

My Warriors, from about a year ago (and I thought my colour scheme was so original too ):




Viperion

I'm sure there will be a 15 disc super duper blu-wiener-ray edition that will have every little thing included. - Necros, on Watchmen  
   
Made in us
Pyromaniac Hellhound Pilot






I'm still amazed that you consider that a "quick" paint job. I've been painting on and off for years and consider myself an adept painter, but those look awsome! Though I've been painting all these years, it wasn't until recently I started messing around with special effects like cry brushing and highlighting. Granted, IG can be done in plain schemes and still look nice, I wish I knew how to do them betterer.

Just because anyone agrees with anyone, doesn't mean they are correct. Beware the thin line between what is "Correct" and what is "Popular." 
   
Made in de
Regular Dakkanaut




Here's a tutorial, Skinnattittar. It's faster than it looks, which was the appeal for me - I don't have the time to paint 100+ models, but really wanted a 'nid army, so I looked around for ways to speed up the painting process before buying a single model. I spend a lot more time on my necrons.

By the way, the warriors look great, Viperion!
   
Made in nz
Raging Ravener





Thanks, I'm really happy with the way the Chitin worked out, but the bodies are kind of blah as they're only one colour + wash (I didn't dip mine but I did use lots of brown ink + liquid wax and a big brush so it's more or less the same effect

Viperion

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/01/29 21:25:59


I'm sure there will be a 15 disc super duper blu-wiener-ray edition that will have every little thing included. - Necros, on Watchmen  
   
Made in us
Pyromaniac Hellhound Pilot






I was thinking of something applying more towards IG, but it's still impressive.

Just because anyone agrees with anyone, doesn't mean they are correct. Beware the thin line between what is "Correct" and what is "Popular." 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





To knock out the resultant shine that polyurethane dips or washes yeild, the best product by far is a spray known as Testors Dullcote. Just shop for it online, I got my tin from ebay and have been very pleased with the results. Most dippers swear by the stuff, I'm just using it to protect my army without altering the look (although I'm highly tempted to quick paint some nids by washing them with satin polyurethane).
   
Made in us
Freaky Flayed One




Detroit,MI

My nids were reversed. Dark angels green carapace and bleached bone skin.I wish they made bleached bone spray again.

妖魔鬼怪快点跑 
   
Made in us
Brainless Servitor






The closest ive found to bleached bone is oxford white spray

Proud believer of full iron models


What was that *full metal warlord looks at plasticard one*

Oh really well take this*sticks homemade TCCW(sharp piece of iron) through plasticard titan

I thought so.... 
   
Made in us
Brainless Servitor






Also what do you think of dipping a red and white eldar grav tank any advice would be appreciated

Proud believer of full iron models


What was that *full metal warlord looks at plasticard one*

Oh really well take this*sticks homemade TCCW(sharp piece of iron) through plasticard titan

I thought so.... 
   
Made in de
Regular Dakkanaut




Trag-Oul wrote:Also what do you think of dipping a red and white eldar grav tank any advice would be appreciated


The way dip runs means it will come out in big splotches on large, smooth surfaces like eldar vehicles. The colours themselves are okay for dipping, but I don't think the result would look like you'd want it to look.

Also, progress report!

   
Made in us
Infiltrating Oniwaban






Oooh, I like the four-winged tyrant. Nice touch!

And it looks like you're not overdoing the dip, either. Good work.

On a side note, even with mass-production 'Nids, applying some heat and bending the tails does wonders to make them look more individual. That straight-tail thing really bugs me (ahem).


Infinity: Way, way better than 40K and more affordable to boot!

"If you gather 250 consecutive issues of White Dwarf, and burn them atop a pyre of Citadel spray guns, legend has it Gwar will appear and answer a single rules-related question. " -Ouze 
   
Made in us
Brainless Servitor






Nice stuff I take it your gonna try and get it up to endless swarm potential?

Proud believer of full iron models


What was that *full metal warlord looks at plasticard one*

Oh really well take this*sticks homemade TCCW(sharp piece of iron) through plasticard titan

I thought so.... 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




NJ

Trag-Oul wrote:Also what do you think of dipping a red and white eldar grav tank any advice would be appreciated


You'll end up with a darker red and tan instead of red and white.

I'm working on a Tau force and did a test dip on the bases. I found that it was faster for me to brush on the stain than to dip and shake. The brush also gave me much more control of where the stain sat so it should help with the problems associated with dipping vehicles.
   
Made in us
Brainless Servitor






Flagg07 wrote:
Trag-Oul wrote:Also what do you think of dipping a red and white eldar grav tank any advice would be appreciated


You'll end up with a darker red and tan instead of red and white.

I'm working on a Tau force and did a test dip on the bases. I found that it was faster for me to brush on the stain than to dip and shake. The brush also gave me much more control of where the stain sat so it should help with the problems associated with dipping vehicles.


That sounds pretty good for my foot soldiers the red and tan is great and im going for a really dark red

Thankyou again

Proud believer of full iron models


What was that *full metal warlord looks at plasticard one*

Oh really well take this*sticks homemade TCCW(sharp piece of iron) through plasticard titan

I thought so.... 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block




Mooore please. Your making some great progress. It takes me over two weeks to finish 7 Shoota boys...
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




NJ

strafed wrote:It takes me over two weeks to finish 7 Shoota boys.


Unless you are going for a significantly high quality, I'd suggest the dip method. You could do 5 times that number, including assembly in less than a week. Not to mention the fact that they'll have a nice protective coating as well.

As for the Nids, I really like them.
Can you describe your method for shaking the dip off?
I'd also be interested in what type of solution you used. Minwax?
How long did it take for your minis to dry? Mine are taking days to finish. Any ideas for getting the minwax to dry faster?
Did you hit them with anything to dull them down? I'll be trying Testor's dull coat spray.
   
Made in de
Regular Dakkanaut




Samrock: great idea about the tails! Too bad I'm already in the middle of painting the last gaunts (for now at least), but I'll keep it in mind for when I expand the army to 1.500 points!



Flagg07 wrote:
strafed wrote:It takes me over two weeks to finish 7 Shoota boys.

As for the Nids, I really like them.
Can you describe your method for shaking the dip off?
I'd also be interested in what type of solution you used. Minwax?
How long did it take for your minis to dry? Mine are taking days to finish. Any ideas for getting the minwax to dry faster?
Did you hit them with anything to dull them down? I'll be trying Testor's dull coat spray.


I don't really dip the models, but apply the stuff with a large worn-out brush. Since I'm in germany and have no clue what to buy, and didn't want to try half a dozen different floor waxes until I found something I'd like, I settled on Quick Shade (Soft Tone) from The Army Painter. It's expensive at 20 Euros, but it looks like one can will be enough for my entire army. Also, the Soft Tone dip is very light and subtle for a dip, so I avoid the usual huge brown splotches associated with the technique. The stuff takes about a day to dry, and doesn't shine too much, so I don't do anything else to the minis afterwards.
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




NJ

Thanks for the info. The link may prove useful as well.
   
 
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