Switch Theme:

Struggling to Paint Heat Damage  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Violent Enforcer




Charleston, SC, USA

I'm struggling to find a way to paint minor cosmetic damage from heat. Mainly, I intend to use this effect around the edges of my Assault Marine's jump packs and possibly on some heavy and normal flamers. Any suggestions?

=====Begin Dakka Geek Code=====
DQ:80-S++G+M-B--I+Pwhfb06#+D++A+++/hWD-R+++T(T)DM++
======End Dakka Geek Code======
 
   
Made in au
Hard-Wired Sentinel Pilot






Sydney

I use Chestnut, Flesh wash and Black Inks Mixed together, but not watered down. Paint it onto the area that you want, and then blend it with the main colour. After that, paint the tips of the Jump pack/flamer black. This also works well for Oil on metal components Ive found.

Armies Owned: Iron Warriors, Tau


Undead Titan Log
Malfred: Terminator Armor has always had room for extra boobage.
Drake_Marcus: It's true- that's why the Space Wolves love termie armour so much. The whole "bear" thing they've got going on is just a thinly veiled cover-up of their huge, hairy cleavage. 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

I blend a little bit of grey and black and streak it back from the exhaust, with more black at the orifice, more grey further back

   
Made in us
Violent Enforcer




Charleston, SC, USA

wow, I've been dry brushing tinbitz, but the result has been fairly hit and miss..

=====Begin Dakka Geek Code=====
DQ:80-S++G+M-B--I+Pwhfb06#+D++A+++/hWD-R+++T(T)DM++
======End Dakka Geek Code======
 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Tin bitz with a brazen brass drybrush over top.

There is an attitude that not having an insanely optimized, one shot, six stage, omnidirectional, inevitable, mousetrap of an assassin list army somehow means that you have foolishly wasted your life building 500 points of pure, 24 karat, hand rolled, fine, cuban fail. That attitude has been shown, under laboratory conditions, to cause cancer of the fun gland.

- palaeomerus


 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Vallejo model color Smoke works well too.

   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Lancaster PA

I use a black dry brush that is heavy around the orifice and lighter moving away from it, then go over that with a brown dry brush that is pretty dark and not terribly heavy. Works nicely for Seraphim jet packs and flamers.


Woad to WAR... on Celts blog, which is mostly Circle Orboros
"I'm sick of auto-penetrating attacks against my behind!" - Kungfuhustler 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Fixture of Dakka






Chicago

I've used vermin brown drybrushed over/around the tips, and then black, lightly, over that.

   
Made in us
Disbeliever of the Greater Good




Bakersfield, California

tamiya smoke effect X-19 really looks pretty good for an oily smoke effect
   
Made in pt
Sinewy Scourge





Porto

I use a sort of "ink drybrush" around the exhausts. Black ink, flat of the brush, done. Could use a brownish ink, too. I think that heat shouldn't be considered damage, in that it doesn't destroy the paint. If you're aiming for this kind of look, then it's a bit trickier.

If you were asking about heat damage on surfaces, I'd use the unreal tournament game as reference. Some burns and scorch marks are perfect (replicating them is a bit harder though).

anonymous @ best Warhammer Miniature wrote:i vote the choas dwarf lord as they are the greatest dwarfs n should get there own codex


 
   
Made in us
Torch-Wielding Lunatic




Knoxville, TN

I second the vermin brown thing. In the WH codex it even recommends to drybrush vermin brown, then chaos black the very tip of the pipe/gun in order to make it look realistic.

Every servant has his place, no matter how lowly or modest. To know it is his greatest comfort, to excel within his greatest solace, and his master's contentment is his greatest reward. -Codex Administratum  
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: