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Made in us
Dakka Veteran







I'd like to request assistance with finishing white primed miniatures. I consistently end up with bright white hidden nooks and crannies. With black primer, this is never an issue since these odd angles look fine as dark shadows. However, these same areas when primed white show up as glaring errors. It wouldn't be such a problem, but I can check & fix 10 times and still end up with these defects, so much so that I would rather just prime black.

In the past, I have been successful with white primer when completely inking over Kroot mercenaries. However this was easy because the model was primarily skin.

Any help is appreciated.

"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

What colors are you using for basecoats? I use a wash of Liquitex Paynes Grey, which will flow nicely if you add some water and glaze medium and it should cover up those little misses

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran







Ifurita wrote:What colors are you using for basecoats?

Thanks for the help. Basecoats for my latest models are the Reaper Master Series' Templar Blue (medium purple-blue) and Honed Steel (medium silver). I wasn't clear in the original post-- primary problem areas are in the regions where two colors meet--for example the inner edges of a leather strap as it lays against skin or armor. In this example, the primary areas of armor and leather will be fine, but in the "joints" between the two areas, I keep finding new angles of white marks.

I use a wash of Liquitex Paynes Grey, which will flow nicely if you add some water and glaze medium and it should cover up those little misses

I've washed with black ink before, but this was too severe--I never thought of grey. I'll try it today. Excellent idea, thanks.

"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." 
   
Made in gb
Lord Commander in a Plush Chair





Beijing

I always use white undercoats because it;s easier to paint up the highlights and use bright colours. Sometimes I use a thin black wash on the model first to fill the cracks black and leave all raised areas mostly white (examples of my stuff are in the "Witchhunters!" thread). I wouldnt't spraying a model black that isn't going to be almost entirely black at the end.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/06/25 10:22:57


 
   
Made in us
40kenthus






Chicago, IL

All of my figures are done with white primer & a brown ink wash. Works very well in applying a base coat to all the belts, pouches, skulls and knives that come on most models.

Terrain, Modeling and More... Chicago Terrain Factory
 
   
Made in us
The Last Chancer Who Survived





Norristown, PA

What I would do is just thin out your paints a bit.. like, do your basecoat like you normally do, then take that same color and add a little water.. so the water will help it flow better into those cracks and fill them up. Or you could also try the new GW washes too.

 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

Definately thin your paints a bit. Paynes Grey is a deep blue-grey. here's what it looks like over basecoats

   
Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

Thinner paints for better flow. Finer brush heads for better control where features meet on the model.

 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran







The minis are looking better already. (and frustration levels are dropping) Thanks for the help!

"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." 
   
 
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