Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

ok i want to do heavy barding for a skeletal steed here are a couple ideas I have:

First the effect: layered plating similar to what you see on the regular horses for the Empire Knights. on the front and back of horse only and a blanket inbetween.

1) Green stuff, (blanket easy not a problem) my fear is will the armorshaped green stuff keep its shape? perhaps I should let it set to harden a bit before i start?

2) plastic sheet (from plastistruct) .blanket would be green stuff again. the armor would be heated then molded strips of plastic, fear again is that the plastic would not keep its new shape.

anyone got some ideas? or do you think one of the above will work.

Thanks for the Help

Hey mate! I'm not much of a sculptor but Green stuff should keep it's shape after its used, but yes you should let it harden for a little while before you start sculpting, Im not sure of what time it is exactly. Heated plastic works just as well, I did a conversion of a Rhino that was ripped up by a carnifex and it has it's doors bent up, I used the heated method. Worked well for me. Hope this helped in any way!

all info on the subject is helpful. thank you goof

i would use brown stuff for the armour plates actually. green stuff dries more rubbery than hard and is very difficult to get into straight angled shapes.

brown stuff is another type of putty that will dry much harder. and you will be able to get a nice sharp edge.

no matter which one you choose i would give the armour its basic shape when sculpting, and then whait till it dries. once it dries sand/file it down so it is smooth and has hard edges to make it look like armor.

tyler

I've never had green-stuff dry "rubbery". The consistency and final effect are entirely dependent on the ratio of the two components (I forget which does which though).

I've also never had a problem getting it to make a sharp edge, although I've never used it for stand-alone components. I've used it to fill gaps between angular forgeworld components. I've always found it easy to get the green-stuff to match the angles.

I can't comment on brown-stuff as I've never used it, but my green-stuff always dries rock hard.