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What type of glue should I use to glue two pieces of foam board together?
Thanks in advance
-Invin

PVA/ Wood Glue (same thing) should do it and won't melt it like plastic glue will.

So is that the GW PVA stuff? I was gonna buy that for basing so if it is thats good.
Thanks,
-Invin

You can get PVA from Hardware stores and many other places (like a supermarket [walmart]).

Should be cheaper than GW's own stuff. They tend to over price that sorta thing. But yeah it's all the same so if you get it it will work.

Apone wrote:You can get PVA from Hardware stores and many other places (like a supermarket [walmart]).

Should be cheaper than GW's own stuff. They tend to over price that sorta thing. But yeah it's all the same so if you get it it will work.

Also known as "white glue" and Elmers is a major brand.

craft stores sell that supertack glue in the brown bottle that works real well

I use pins and pva glue.

Regular dressmaking pins. They even look like rivets.

Their main purpose is to hold the thing together while the glue sets.

Don't be tempted to ever rush the job and use superglue - it'll just eat through the stuff like acid on metals.

You can also use hot glue though it can get a bit messy and can't really be painted over all that well.

I build terrain like nobody's business. Foamcore, polystyrene, and cardstock are my main mediums. Nothing bonds these items as well as Elmer's Wood Glue (the yellow-tan glue). You can get a gallon jug in a DIY store like Home Depot for about $15-20 USD.
I strongly reccommend you steer clear of PVA glue (PVA is the white glue), Elmer's, GW's, or anyone else's for the construction of terrain. It has two properties that make for problematic terrain-making:
1) PVA (white glue, school glue, Elmer's, whatever you want to call it) dries to a very brittle state and it makes for poor long-term bonding. Unless you're gluing glitter and shells onto a piece of construction paper for a Mother's Day card, PVA = bad.
2) PVA receeds much more during the curing process than wood glue. This leads to greater warpage, especially so if the materials are porous, such as foamcore.

I have seen several oddities with using PVA for structural purposes when making terrain. For example, I used PVA to adhere four foamcore walls together to make a building exterior. When the glue had dried, it had receded in places all along each seam where two pieces met. This made little gaps along the seams that light shone through.

PVA certainly has it's uses in terrain construction, to be sure. In my experience, it is best used for flocking terrain or adding thingys to other thingys. Cosmetic use.

My $0.02


Ghidorah

Does wood glue work well for flocking a whole game board? I have several boards that I need to cover with sand and as I can't find bulk amounts of white glue, I was wondering if wood glue would work.

Yes. It works spectacularly. I have flocked MANY (manymanymanymany) game boards using Elmer's Wood Glue. Polystyrene (insulation foam) boards of ALL sizes. 4'x4', 6'x4', 8'x4', 12'x4', you name it. There are two tricks to it, though.

1) Thin the wood glue with tap water to the consistency of tomato soup. It needs to be runny, but not watery.
2) Sand the foam before you apply the glue.

The second one needs a bit more explaining...
Most polystyrene sheets (in the US, anyway) come sandwiched in a very thin sheet of clear plastic. This is to help prevent chipping, flaking, etc. on the main face of the product. Think of it as a thin "skin" for the foam. Sort of like our skin keeping our insides protected. This "skin" needs to be removed.
I do this by hand sanding the whole thing with a medium grit sandpaper. I don't like to use an electric sander because I have more control over the pressure I apply when I can feel it with my fingers. I must also warn that this causes a HUGE amount of foam dust. This is bad to breathe in. It is best to uses a mask of some sort. Outside sanding is fine, but I don't necessarily recommend opening a garage door or window or something. A breeze catching that dust could be pretty bad.

After sanding and getting my glue to the right consistency, I grab a 2" paintbrush and go to work. I generally work in roughly 1-foot sqare sections. Glue, flock, move on and repeat.



Ghidorah