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NOTE: This is on another forum (LGS in Cincinnati) but I'll put here to contribute to the site. This is a batch of table top quality Ork Boyz I did on commission. All in all 30 orcs took about 10 hours.

After sand base, clean up, drilling out the gun barrels, and priming here are a few of the boyz relaxing in front of my bits box.




STAGE 1.

This is a drybrush of Tin bitz on the metallic parts. I'm doing the metals first because they are messy. metal flakes get everywhere when you drybrush even if you are careful where you put the brush.

As you can see I went for my big brush. The small brush if for spots I can't reach.




Stage 2.

Drybrush Boltgun. Not much different then stage one except a little lighter on the application.



Stage 3.

Base coat the base. I use craft paint otherwise I'd be spending a fortune when doing base work. Sand holds a lot of paint so I recommend going cheap.



Stage4.
Drybrush w/ a medium grey.



Stage 5. Drybrush with a light grey


Stage 6.
Clean up the black on the pants and hit any areas that were missed during priming. Line the base - in this case w/ Red/Black VMC.


Stage 7 Ork flesh. I tried the Orkhide shade but since it wasn't a dropper I had issues w/ how viscous it was. I changed to VMC black/Green (identical in color IMO) which I could thin and apply more rapidly w/ control.
You can see after just applying the green these are really starting to be Orcish.

On these Orks the focal point is the face and gun (since the gun is positioned central). Extra attention will be given to those areas (even though the models are table top) and other spots (pants and shoes) will see very little love. Ork faces w/ especially w/ bright teeth always look good.


Posse to date.


Stage 8 - Base Coats.

Red Black - All areas that will be eventually red.



Flat Brown - for all the "yellow leather" areas



Mahogany Brown for all the "red Leather" areas. (at this stage this color doesn't look very different from the Red/Black but it has less red and more brown in it.



Black - Mouth, Teeth, Any rivots



Stage 9: Darken the Leathers.
A universal wash of SS camo black brown, matte medium, and water are used. 1:1:8 (drops)



Stage 10 Teeth and Bone.

I also painted the Earing gold. The teeth are based in Burnt Umber



Highlight 1 Plague Brown.


Highlight 2 Bleached Bone



Stage 11 Leathers

Hit the Leather again w/ the base coat. See the nice shading between them now.



Yellow Leather Highlight 1 is a 50:50 of flat brown and Ochre brown.



Highlight 2 on the yellow is a 10:90 mix of Flat and Ochre Brown.
Shown from the back for a little more effect.



The Red leather is hit w/ Rust Brown as an extreme highlight (edges only).



Stage 12 Reds


Hit the Red Black with Gory Red.


Highlight again w/ Bloody Red - there will be one more highlight (maybe 2 after this. The reds are a real focal area. I like them to look good as they help the models standout.



Stage 12 Continued

Highlight w/ Fiery Orange and dot the rivots w/ chainmail.


Stage 13 Skin

Highlight 1 w/ Flat Green




Highlight 2 w/ Goblin Green




Counter Shade w/ Cavalry brown

This is really optional but I decided to do it to add a little life into the skin. It was streaky and kinda meh on some of the figs. This helps blend it together and makes the face stand out more. I think I took the picture of the worst looking one.





Stage 14 clean up
No pics here just did some quick clean up on bases, paints on other areas where it got a little sloppy. Also finished the "fur" hats....Ivory, wash w/ Ochre brown and flesh wash. Highlight again w/ ivory dry brush.

Stage 15.....

WAAAGHHHHH

The guide is top notch, but the title is very misleading.

i guess you mean the 3 colors

Yes. there are 3 colors by stage 2 >.<

Where did you get those paints? im looking for and alternative to the GW panits...as they are way way too much money.

The Folk Art paints are in any Hobby Lobby/Michaels and I would highly recommend them. I use the empty paint containers and use a 50/50 mix of paint/water. They thin out nicely and Folk Art has "Artist Pigment" line that are about $0.30 more, but have even better results.

The others I've seen at my FLGS.

That is great work!

Sorry guys about the title. 3 colors should have been 3 layer painting or 3 colors per stage.

So reds have 3 colors
greens have 3 colors
Each brown has 3 colors

The Vallejo Model colors are available at better model shops, usually with a focus at historicals.
The vallejo Game colors (VGC) and Reaper Master series (RMS) are available at some hobby stores that carry miniatures.

VGC They are designed to match GW colors however are usually thinner and IMO easier to work with.
RMS can be bought in TRIADs of colors with a base, shade, and highlight color. It can really take a lot of guess work out of doing 3 layer painting.

Alas, I don't think they are any cheaper.

I only use the craft paint on my bases. I know a lot of folks who paint figs with it but I don't recommend that for several reasons.


www.acrylicosvallejo.com
www.reaperminis.com

Great tutorial, very good detailed steps. Thanks for sharing!


I do want to mention that we are running a contest during the month of May for the best tutorial. In case you haven't seen the rules you may want to take a look here.

This particular tutorial isn't eligible since it was posted on another site as well (and the pics aren't hosted here), but if you've got any other tutorial ideas banging around in your head perhaps you can consider trying for the prize!

yakface wrote:
Great tutorial, very good detailed steps. Thanks for sharing!


I do want to mention that we are running a contest during the month of May for the best tutorial. In case you haven't seen the rules you may want to take a look here.

Thanks for the compliment

Yes, the reason I noted that I had posted it was on another site was to declare it "ineligible"....forgot the hosting part too though. I've always got lots of projects going on so I'll see what comes up.

Regards,

Nicely done John. Heopfully I'll get to see these guys in person at some point.

Uriels_Flame wrote:The Folk Art paints are in any Hobby Lobby/Michaels and I would highly recommend them. I use the empty paint containers and use a 50/50 mix of paint/water. They thin out nicely and Folk Art has "Artist Pigment" line that are about $0.30 more, but have even better results.

The others I've seen at my FLGS.

I went to Michaels today to check out the Folk Art paints...they look good...but what would you use as far as inks and washes?

Also what is wrong with using craft paints such as Folk Arts on models?

Thank you soo much for making this thread