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Made in us
Dakka Veteran






Ok, so here are my painted PSC Stugs and I just wanted to ask how do I apply a wash? I heard of dilluting Devlan Mud with Windex to get thinner consistency but how do I know the ratio for windex to wash? I am used to 28mm figures where I would apply washed straight fron the bottle. OR do I just get a really fine brush and apply the wash to the crevacies only? OR is dipping an option?



   
Made in hk
Nasty Nob






Why not apply a very thin black wash? That will add shading to the hatches and tools. Keep it very thin, and apply a second wash if the first one isn't enough. Then lightly drybrush with a light bone colour to highlight the detail.

"You know that saying 'Caesar's wife is above suspicion'? Well, I put an end to all that rubbish!" - Major Denis Bloodnok, late of the 3rd Disgusting Fusiliers 
   
Made in gb
Oberleutnant





You could pinwash it (like blacklining but with a wash). Devlan mud will dilute with water.

Try different techniques out on the underside of the tank, or spare parts from the sprue even?

"There's a time when the operation of the machine becomes so odious—makes you so sick at heart—that you can't take part. You can't even passively take part. And you've got to put your bodies upon the gears and upon the wheels, upon the levers, upon all the apparatus, and you've got to make it stop. And you've got to indicate to the people who run it, to the people who own it that unless you're free, the machine will be prevented from working at all" Mario Savio 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I suggest reading this:

Dirty Jon's German Camo Tutorial

Skip down to the wash section. I hope this helps!

- DJ
   
Made in hk
Nasty Nob






Good tutorial, Dirty Jon, although the photos aren't quite clear enough for such small models. My approach to small scale vehicles has always been to drybrush after applying the wash, but it probably doesn't make much difference. I think one point to make is that the stippling that you recommend (which I also use) actually requires a fair bit of practice; it's very easy to use too much paint, or just end up with messy splotches everywhere (which is actually quite realistic - textbook camo application was the exception rather than the rule - but doesn't look good on argaming models).

"You know that saying 'Caesar's wife is above suspicion'? Well, I put an end to all that rubbish!" - Major Denis Bloodnok, late of the 3rd Disgusting Fusiliers 
   
Made in ca
Been Around the Block





Hey warlord Imp how did you do the camo? Also it looks like you didnt basecoat, is that correct?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/02/26 03:04:07


 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






Just did a primer of Dunkelgelb. Then, "wet-blended" the camo. Wet-blended meaning applying the camo color and using a second wet brush, feathered the borders outward while the paint was wet. If it was inconsistent, I would take a watered down Middlestone and feather it again inward until I got a good fade.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2012/02/26 07:14:50


   
Made in ca
Been Around the Block





Hey Warlord, where did you get your dunkaleb primer, cause I dont think battlefront has one.
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






FOW SP04 - German Armour ('Dunkelgelb' - mid/late) SPRAY PAINT - got mine from thewarstore.com.

   
Made in ca
Been Around the Block





How did you spray yours, cause when I did mine, I think I was too close, so the paint destroyed alot of the detail. Any technique to share?
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






I have them sitting on a tray/plate. Holding the spray maybe 6-12 inches away. Start spraying aimed off to the side then sweep across your figures until you are off to the side past your figures. Rotate tray and repeat.

I have the tray sitting on a box on top of my outdoor trashcan. I do at least 3 passes or less depending on how well the coverage is for the spray paint. Quick short passes will decrease the chance of paint pooling. After I have hit all sides, I let it sit 5 minutes to dry then turn it to it's side. I hit the underbelly and tracks then let sit again for the other side.

Now, I do not worry about areas that do not get paint like in the tiny spaces as you can use Middlestone and a brush to cover those up (I did not have to). A good mini primer will produce a fine mist. I have used the cheaper paints like Krylon but they do not produce a fine enough mist and destroy alot of detail as they go on very thick no matter how far you hold the can.

   
Made in ca
Member of a Lodge? I Can't Say




Oromocto, NB, Canada

I have been using Vallejo (Can never spell it properly.) washes. I find them much better than the GW ones. Not as many colours, but they work better.

Mat

 
   
Made in ca
Fresh-Faced New User




Depending on how you want to go, have you tried using oil based washes? Mig Productions Brown Wash or Dark Wash would work well. The difference in using oils is that you'd need to clear coat the model with a gloss varnish first, apply the wash to the detailed areas, let it dry for a bit and then smooth out the wash with a dry brush a bit later.

At the moment I have a pair of the Open Fire StuGs that are almost ready for the oil-based wash. I also have a box of the PSC StuGs, which are finely detailed enough that they deserve a thin but controllable wash that the oils allow. They'll get the same treatment once I get them up painted.
   
 
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