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Any recommendations for a decent thinner to use with Citadel paints? Was looking at Vallejo but I'm not too sure.
Comments please.

Anybody?

I have used Vallejo before and it works allright.

After a Masterclass I took in March I adjusted my receipe to the following:

I use an old Isopropylic alcohol bottle (450-500ml will do)

3/4 of Matte Medium (Liquitex)
1/4 Distilled Water
1 or 1 1/2 cap of Flow-Aid Liquitex

Works great so far.

Vallejo airbrush thinners work for me as does Tescos concentrated windscreen wash in a pinch.

Your *best* option is to use actual airbrush paints. The particles of pigment are smaller, and flow better from the gun.

Liquitex airbrushing medium; Add to acrylics in any amount without reducing the binder's surface tension. Flows in an airbrush quite well (is prone to tip drying, but arent all acrylics?)
Beleive Golden do a similar product, but I've not tryed it so can't say what it might be like.

emmagine wrote:
Your *best* option is to use actual airbrush paints. The particles of pigment are smaller, and flow better from the gun.

I use an extensive variety of "airbrush ready" and regular miniature paints and have found no real difference in how they spray, the airbrush paints just need less thining. In my opinion, one of the best spraying paintings is Privateer Press P3... I absolutely love those paints. However, the only metallic paint I use in my airbrush is the VMA metallics.

My thanks to you all for your help

If you don't want to deal with thinners use windex. It binds well with acrylic and doesn't really dry at the tip. I use this with all my airbrush work and I love it.

The Vallejo stuff works great, I like to mix a drop of the retarder into it though to help keep clogging to a minimum.

It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

kronicpsycho wrote:
It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

I have used GW paints with my airbrush with a 0.4 and a 0.15 and I got great results.

That being said, GW metallics are a big no-no in airbrushes and Base or the old Foundation are a pain if you use a small needle. Layer paints work fine if properly dilluted.

You can see my Striking Scorpions in this thread: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/499530.page

The gradient is hard to see because of the flash but they were coated with good old Snot Green and using Zenith Lighting technique with a bit of Scorpion Green.

I'd be a bit careful if you're using windex to thin your paints in an airbrush as windex contains ammonia, which is not something you generally want to have in an aerosol form.

kronicpsycho wrote:
It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

Its possible its just a pain in the ass. I am sure Badger has a lot to say about how other paints just don't work as well in an airbrush considering their recent release of their own Minitaire model paint line. Which BTW looks totally awesome and if you are just starting out with airbrushing i would suggest looking into it. Much more vibrant colors. I want it but then I already have all this VMAC paint to burn through first.

If Windex rubs you the wrong way you can also just use a mixture of water and jet dry, although i am not really sure what all is in jet dry. You are going to die anyhow might as well get as much painting done as you can beforehand right.

Happy Painting

So I've tried the airbrush with using water to thin it but it doesn't seem to work all that well...
Got some Vallejo thinner to try this weekend though..


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Ps> nice job on the striking scorpion Erik_Morkai


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Also- cheers for the heads up on metallics in airbrushes! Was about to try it on my Necron Monolith tomorrow!

HairySticks wrote:
Liquitex airbrushing medium; Add to acrylics in any amount without reducing the binder's surface tension. Flows in an airbrush quite well (is prone to tip drying, but arent all acrylics?)
Beleive Golden do a similar product, but I've not tryed it so can't say what it might be like.

First off, I agree with others here - nothing beats actual "airbrush paints" the pigments are finer and they just work better.

However, when I need to use a standard paint, I thin with actual airbrush medium. I used to use windex, or water, or what not, but the cost is not that much compared to the hassle or inconsistent results.

Your experiences and results may vary, as with a lot of the aspects of this hobby, it is somewhat subjective and everyone has their own expectations.

I prefer the "Golden" brand airbrush medium, but liquitex makes some good product as well.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

kronicpsycho wrote:
It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

You clearly do not know what you are talking about. Have you tryed it for yourself personally? Or are you just regurgitating what the guys at badger said to you to make you feel like you must have several airbrushes?
Please refrain from telling people incorrect opinions as fact. It is just confusing and misleading to those who don't already know how wrong you are.

I've sprayed lots of the new range of citadel paints in my Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 0.2mm with zero problems. Its about thinning correctly, Infact it is far far easier to thin Citadel paints to propper viscosities than it is any soft bodied artists acrylics, which also spray just fine when thinned correctly.
I didnt chance trying the metallics in it as I suspected 0.2mm to be a bit small for the metal flakes... but have no actual data to base this on.

To address the OP, I use Future for thinning acrylic paints. Works as a slo-dry additive to some extent, strengthens the paint a bit and thins without breaking down the acrylic, as it is acrylic. I've haven't used it with GW but have no reason to expect a different result really, as I've used it with many paints. Odd, now that I think of it, I've never used GW paints in my airbrush, even though they're some of my favorites.

HairySticks wrote:

kronicpsycho wrote:
It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

You clearly do not know what you are talking about. Have you tryed it for yourself personally? Or are you just regurgitating what the guys at badger said to you to make you feel like you must have several airbrushes?
Please refrain from telling people incorrect opinions as fact. It is just confusing and misleading to those who don't already know how wrong you are.

I've sprayed lots of the new range of citadel paints in my Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 0.2mm with zero problems. Its about thinning correctly, Infact it is far far easier to thin Citadel paints to propper viscosities than it is any soft bodied artists acrylics, which also spray just fine when thinned correctly.
I didnt chance trying the metallics in it as I suspected 0.2mm to be a bit small for the metal flakes... but have no actual data to base this on.

The video he's referencing is a great one, and not a sales video. It has a few basics on thinning, but not much and only describes the pigment grinding methods in the briefest of terms. The video is mostly about Badger products themselves, it certainly didn't address GW paints, and other than Minitaire in regard to availability, only mentioned Liquitex specifically as an example of a paint that uses the finest grinding technique. Not sure where Kronicpsycho got his opinion, as the video contained nothing having to do with his statement or the OP's question. If you've had issues getting GW paint to flow through an airbrush, you must not be thinning them at all. I have a feeling though, that the statement isn't based on any actual experience, let alone proper technique.

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:

emmagine wrote:
Your *best* option is to use actual airbrush paints. The particles of pigment are smaller, and flow better from the gun.

I use an extensive variety of "airbrush ready" and regular miniature paints and have found no real difference in how they spray, the airbrush paints just need less thining. In my opinion, one of the best spraying paintings is Privateer Press P3... I absolutely love those paints. However, the only metallic paint I use in my airbrush is the VMA metallics.

How have you found the Badger and/or Vallejo Air paints? Found both still clogged my brush when they were used 'raw,' little thinner seemed to do the trick.

I've had great luck with Vallejo Model Air without thinning. All acrylics dry quickly from an airbrush and can clog. VMA hasn't given me any issues at all though.

Yeah Vallejo model air paints are obviously not a problem, standard model colour paints in the other hand are too thick for brushing straight on never minds through an airbrush. Obviously the Vallejo AB acrylic thinners work a treat with those though.

And I'll just lay the boot into the misinformation on GW paints. They work fine though an airbrush. If anything I've found their greys and Khakis better than other standard acrylic paints and found Pallid Flesh to be awesome when tackling a 100+ zombies recently. Note I only use their old range but see no reason why they wouldn't work especially since they have a thinner in the range now (Acrylic Medium I think?).

 Erik_Morkai wrote:

kronicpsycho wrote:
It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

I have used GW paints with my airbrush with a 0.4 and a 0.15 and I got great results.

That being said, GW metallics are a big no-no in airbrushes and Base or the old Foundation are a pain if you use a small needle. Layer paints work fine if properly dilluted.

You can see my Striking Scorpions in this thread: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/499530.page

The gradient is hard to see because of the flash but they were coated with good old Snot Green and using Zenith Lighting technique with a bit of Scorpion Green.

You are correct.. but after long use it starts to gum up. Look around on youtube and forums about this happening to allot of people. And clogging 100x faster.. btw nice model looks awesome.


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 Baldsmug wrote:

kronicpsycho wrote:
It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

Its possible its just a pain in the ass. I am sure Badger has a lot to say about how other paints just don't work as well in an airbrush considering their recent release of their own Minitaire model paint line. Which BTW looks totally awesome and if you are just starting out with airbrushing i would suggest looking into it. Much more vibrant colors. I want it but then I already have all this VMAC paint to burn through first.

If Windex rubs you the wrong way you can also just use a mixture of water and jet dry, although i am not really sure what all is in jet dry. You are going to die anyhow might as well get as much painting done as you can beforehand right.

Happy Painting

Haha yeah I'm not silly I no why Ken would say that. But from experience I could not find a way to stop it from turning into like chewing gum... really stuffed my stuff up about 30 mins of cleaning for 5mins of use if that. :( each to there own.. I'm no fan boy or anything of a paint end of the day aslong as I can get exactly what I want from w/e paint/brand all is good.
Lol PTYD = PAINT TO YOU DIE :3


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 angelofvengeance wrote:
So I've tried the airbrush with using water to thin it but it doesn't seem to work all that well...
Got some Vallejo thinner to try this weekend though..


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Ps> nice job on the striking scorpion Erik_Morkai


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Also- cheers for the heads up on metallics in airbrushes! Was about to try it on my Necron Monolith tomorrow!

Don't use water. Go out and buy some Vallejo airbursh paint thinner def worth buying! or anytihng simuliar. hope this helps bud don't be afraid to make it alittle more thin as you can easily ad a small amopunt of paint ot that and it will turn perfection.


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HairySticks wrote:

kronicpsycho wrote:
It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

You clearly do not know what you are talking about. Have you tryed it for yourself personally? Or are you just regurgitating what the guys at badger said to you to make you feel like you must have several airbrushes?
Please refrain from telling people incorrect opinions as fact. It is just confusing and misleading to those who don't already know how wrong you are.

I've sprayed lots of the new range of citadel paints in my Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 0.2mm with zero problems. Its about thinning correctly, Infact it is far far easier to thin Citadel paints to propper viscosities than it is any soft bodied artists acrylics, which also spray just fine when thinned correctly.
I didnt chance trying the metallics in it as I suspected 0.2mm to be a bit small for the metal flakes... but have no actual data to base this on.

Actually I painted a 2000 paint nurgle army with GW paints threw an airbrush trying many different thinners and methods. I use that example from the dude from badger since it's only person I no of who would be talking about them things and to why they do not go threw the airbrush as easily as a VMA.
Thank's for asking tho

But they also clog your airbrush "from my experiance!" up really bad to like a gummy consistancy. I would never say something like that without trying it for myself lucky you have good and easy time with GW paints mate.
I use about 10 different GW paints, there flesh colours, Some reds and a few different washes for painting large amounts of hordes for people. Next time I will go into more depth.


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 Badger_Bhoy wrote:
To address the OP, I use Future for thinning acrylic paints. Works as a slo-dry additive to some extent, strengthens the paint a bit and thins without breaking down the acrylic, as it is acrylic. I've haven't used it with GW but have no reason to expect a different result really, as I've used it with many paints. Odd, now that I think of it, I've never used GW paints in my airbrush, even though they're some of my favorites.

HairySticks wrote:

kronicpsycho wrote:
It's not really possible to use GW paints in a Airbrush.... maybe in a 0.5 or greater but anything lower it's not ganna work.

It's to do with how the pigments are grinded and stuff. Ken from badger explained it quiet well on a WGC video. hope this helped.

You clearly do not know what you are talking about. Have you tryed it for yourself personally? Or are you just regurgitating what the guys at badger said to you to make you feel like you must have several airbrushes?
Please refrain from telling people incorrect opinions as fact. It is just confusing and misleading to those who don't already know how wrong you are.

I've sprayed lots of the new range of citadel paints in my Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 0.2mm with zero problems. Its about thinning correctly, Infact it is far far easier to thin Citadel paints to propper viscosities than it is any soft bodied artists acrylics, which also spray just fine when thinned correctly.
I didnt chance trying the metallics in it as I suspected 0.2mm to be a bit small for the metal flakes... but have no actual data to base this on.

The video he's referencing is a great one, and not a sales video. It has a few basics on thinning, but not much and only describes the pigment grinding methods in the briefest of terms. The video is mostly about Badger products themselves, it certainly didn't address GW paints, and other than Minitaire in regard to availability, only mentioned Liquitex specifically as an example of a paint that uses the finest grinding technique. Not sure where Kronicpsycho got his opinion, as the video contained nothing having to do with his statement or the OP's question. If you've had issues getting GW paint to flow through an airbrush, you must not be thinning them at all. I have a feeling though, that the statement isn't based on any actual experience, let alone proper technique.

Apologies to the OP kinda got off track. in no way is what I say or most of what people say even if they make it out to be is fact. :/ sorry to anyone who took it off that way. But I do think I'm able to voice what I think about it. He said if I remember properly an company you no of that I'm not going to name uses a larger grain. I thought it was quiet obvious he was talking about GW. But anyways each to there own like I said to the other person if you thin GW paints with a thinner atleast for me with Vallejo thinner it turns gummy. I'm quiet a regular painting and have tried allot of different paints and in NO way am I saying GW paints are crap :(


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 Badger_Bhoy wrote:
I've had great luck with Vallejo Model Air without thinning. All acrylics dry quickly from an airbrush and can clog. VMA hasn't given me any issues at all though.

Lucky man :( I guess I got a bad batch because my reds scarlet, orange and fire red are excellent! 0 thinning required by my other paints require like 1 drop of thinner for ever 5 or so. Ahh well nothings perfect.

Vallejo air brush paints are amazing straight out of the bottle. Perfect consistency every single time.
If you have to use GW paints, you can use thinners from almost any other company, water or isopropyl alcohol. DO NOT use windex or brush cleaner. I just saw a 1 hour video from the CEO of Badger air brushes and he said using windex and brush cleaner is the craziest thing he's ever seen. He said that stuff breaks down the paint, so why the hell would you use it.
He also said alcohol is fine, but unless you're a professional or doing some technique you don't need alcohol just cause it evaporates faster.
He said that if he cannot use air brush paint that he simply adds water.
I'm sure there are a ton of people here that disagree. I myself use isopropyl alcohol, cause that's how I learned, but you can't dispute with the man that makes the product.

 lav25gunner wrote:
Vallejo air brush paints are amazing straight out of the bottle. Perfect consistency every single time.
If you have to use GW paints, you can use thinners from almost any other company, water or isopropyl alcohol. DO NOT use windex or brush cleaner. I just saw a 1 hour video from the CEO of Badger air brushes and he said using windex and brush cleaner is the craziest thing he's ever seen. He said that stuff breaks down the paint, so why the hell would you use it.
He also said alcohol is fine, but unless you're a professional or doing some technique you don't need alcohol just cause it evaporates faster.
He said that if he cannot use air brush paint that he simply adds water.
I'm sure there are a ton of people here that disagree. I myself use isopropyl alcohol, cause that's how I learned, but you can't dispute with the man that makes the product.

From Ken? he is just trying to sell you stuff! why lisison to him god. It's not like he knows whats good for paints and airbrushes!
obvious sarcasm :3

 Badger_Bhoy wrote:
I've had great luck with Vallejo Model Air without thinning. All acrylics dry quickly from an airbrush and can clog. VMA hasn't given me any issues at all though.

Hmm. What level of pressure are you using?

Thanks!

I use 20-25psi typically.