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Made in us
Humorless Arbite





Maine

Help! I have never had a hard time getting the release agent off of resin kits before. I use dish soap in warm water with a tooth brush.
The parts I am having a problem with have a slick waxy feel and a high shine. After wash and rinse failed three times on some of the parts I poked around here and decided to give simple green a try. 10 min in the simple green and the parts which were very slick and shiny were sticky and shiny. Brushing did not remove the sticky crud, so I left the parts in simple green overnight. 8 hours later the crud is still not loose enough to brush off in running warm water, but is sticky enough that I couldn't dry them with paper towel without chunks of matrial sticking to them. I can sand the goo off the parts without much detail, but one of the parts has lots of nooks and crannies. What is this stuff? How do I clean it up?

Voxed from Salamander 84-24020
 
   
Made in us
Monstrous Master Moulder





Utah

I just picked up some forgeworld scimitar bikes and I had a similar issue. The the sticky goo stuff you should be able to get off with a hobby knife. My problem I had was with the release agent and shine still on the models after I cleaned them. All I did was spray them with testors dullcote and that took that shine right away.

Hope that helps a bit.

 
   
Made in us
Steadfast Grey Hunter





For resin release, you're looking at a really unusual amount of difficulty in terms of getting them clean.

They shouldn't be shiny once they're painted, but that resin release agent (RRA) will keep the paint from bonding correctly/well.

With similarly "stuck" RRA, typically from Ramshackle (who are great), I've found that soaking + repeated baths does the trick. Let it really hang out in warm soapy water, not too hot to contort the resin, at least an hour +. Go at it with a sonic scrubber (about 15 bucks on amazon) instead of a toothbrush. Repeat.

Simple green won't hurt, but the soap and water will fundamentally get it done.
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

It's my belief that FW are skimping on catalyst to set the resin - call them & get a replacement. I did & the replacement parts are so much better.

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in us
Humorless Arbite





Maine

 bubber wrote:
It's my belief that FW are skimping on catalyst to set the resin - call them & get a replacement. I did & the replacement parts are so much better.


Thanks for the suggestion.

I did buy a centaur that seemed to have a curing problem. Glue and primer sloughed off it and I thought it was a prep problem on my end. Several years went by and I decide to give it another shot, everything worked fine. Then I read a thread here about curing issues and figured that was the problem.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
deadairis wrote:
For resin release, you're looking at a really unusual amount of difficulty in terms of getting them clean.

They shouldn't be shiny once they're painted, but that resin release agent (RRA) will keep the paint from bonding correctly/well.

With similarly "stuck" RRA, typically from Ramshackle (who are great), I've found that soaking + repeated baths does the trick. Let it really hang out in warm soapy water, not too hot to contort the resin, at least an hour +. Go at it with a sonic scrubber (about 15 bucks on amazon) instead of a toothbrush. Repeat.

Simple green won't hurt, but the soap and water will fundamentally get it done.


Ya, I have always used soap a water, hardly ever have to give it long soak times. I have quite a few FW models. Sonic scrubber seems over the top but hey, it probably cleans brass well.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/06/30 03:24:37


Voxed from Salamander 84-24020
 
   
 
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