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So when I first started my IG army I put a couple of the cadian gate trandafers and squad numbers on my guardsmen. Before all I did was put the transfers in a bowl of water and then once the transfer fell off the paper I would put some water where I would be putting the transfer and it would stick perfectly.

Now I'm putting more transfers on the shoulders and they aren't sticking properly. The transfer bunches up in the center like it's not on a smooth surface. The corners of the transfer will also stick up and if I do get them to stay down there will be a crease in the center.

I've tried using the paint that the shoulders are to get it to stay down but it doesn't want to cooperate lol.

Does gw have anything that will help make transfers stay down?

Thanks for the help!

Get decal solution
Mircoset and Mircosol
http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2013/04/hobby-making-most-of-decals.html

winterdyne has the very best guide I've seen since I started this hobby.

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/217005-using-waterslide-decals/

Ive never heard of that micro set/sol. Both tutorials seem to have it work so I will certainly give it a try.

Thanks for the help!

I was told by a FW guy that a glossed varnish surface is the best background for transfers. He also used the micro stuff. After everything was dry, apply another coat of gloss varnish.
I think the GW stuff in the pot is good enough.

 bubber wrote:
I was told by a FW guy that a glossed varnish surface is the best background for transfers. He also used the micro stuff. After everything was dry, apply another coat of gloss varnish.
I think the GW stuff in the pot is good enough.

This. The secret is that the smoother the surface, the better a decal will adhere and the fewer air bubbles you are likely to trap under the film. The traditional technique I've seen described in all sorts of modeling publications is:

1. Paint Model
2. Apply a coat of gloss varnish (normally a spray like Glosscote)
3. Apply a liquid adhesive like Microset to the area where the decal is to be placed.
4. Apply the decal, being careful to smooth out any bubbles under it (use the point of a hobby knife to "pop" any large bubbles that get trapped).
5. Once the decal is applied and excess water is removed, apply a solvent like Microsol. The idea here is that the solvent will soften the film backing of the decal, allowing it to conform to the contours of the model. This solvent may need to be applied more than once depending on how complex of a surface you are applying it to. For something like an IG shoulder pad, one coat should be enough.
6. After the decal has thoroughly dried, apply another coat of gloss varnish to seal it in.
7. Once the gloss varnish has dried, kill the shine with a matte or dull varnish, like Dullcote.

If done this way, the edge of the decal film should pretty much disappear, and the decal will start to look like it has been painted on instead.