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Hey all! So I'm trying to protect some of my models and had a few questions. In the past I've used a really cheap varnish I got from Michael's, but since then I've improved my painting and care a lot more about getting a good finish on it at the same time as protecting it (I'm tired of finding white chips after transporting my models, I can't afford a nice foam case just yet and unfortunately have them all rattling around in a toolbox to and from the FLGS).

It's cold as all hell here in Boston, and I've got no place to spray anything inside, so I ordered a pot of this:



I've read up on certain things online saying that the dullcote doesn't protect enough on it's own. If so, does anyone have any experience with what to layer under it to get a great protective coat?

*Side note: Does anyone have any suggestions on a good case for a MC heavy Tyranid army? The custom foam trays always seem out of my price range.

I use the spray on dull coat and underneath I use Reaper paints clear coat. I don't think anything will hold up to rattling around in a toolbox unfortunately. If you go to Joanne's fabric store you can buy sheets of foam for super cheap. Buy a rubber tote and cut the foam to fit your models. That is the cheapest way I can think of to get proper protection.

I use bubble wrap on my big models. Loads of companies use it when I order things from them.
As for the Dull Cote. I have the same stuff & found that it likes to dissolve ink washes. Haven't used it for some time so I don't know how it reacts to the current range of inks from GW.
Best to test it first.
I would always recommend applying a gloss coat of varnish before using a matt varnish as gloss protects much better.
Also I know that if you spray matt varnish on too thick it will end up glossy - don't know if this will happen if you brush it on though. Didn't go glossy on mine but again I would recommend testing it first on a spare model.

 bubber wrote:
I use bubble wrap on my big models. Loads of companies use it when I order things from them.
As for the Dull Cote. I have the same stuff & found that it likes to dissolve ink washes. Haven't used it for some time so I don't know how it reacts to the current range of inks from GW.
Best to test it first.
I would always recommend applying a gloss coat of varnish before using a matt varnish as gloss protects much better.
Also I know that if you spray matt varnish on too thick it will end up glossy - don't know if this will happen if you brush it on though. Didn't go glossy on mine but again I would recommend testing it first on a spare model.

Thanks for the tips? Any suggestions on a gloss varnish that won't dissolve ink washes? I use a pretty heavy wash on my Nids to get depth and I'd hate for that to get ruined.

And bubble wrap sounds like a perfect temporary solution. It's only really been a big problem with my metal models and whatever they touch, so that could definitely help in the meantime.

Someone at my club uses magnets to secure models by their base to a sheet of metal that's just glued to the bottom of a box, but his army is entirely plastic (he plays Tau) so weight isn't as much of an issue. Has anyone had success with this?

Yep, Neodymium magnets fixed to the bottom of a Mierce miniatures Krull, and a FW GUO.

When attached to a metal sheet, I feel I could (not brave enough to try) turn them upside down.

They're both resin, but they're biiiig, and Krull, with large wings, is a little top heavy.

I could do with a source of metal sheet though, if anyone has nay suggestions, biscuit tins aren't deep enough to protect them from exterior impact enough for my liking, and the adhesive magnetic sheet doesn't stick as well as proper metal.

 azreal13 wrote:
Yep, Neodymium magnets fixed to the bottom of a Mierce miniatures Krull, and a FW GUO.

When attached to a metal sheet, I feel I could (not brave enough to try) turn them upside down.

They're both resin, but they're biiiig, and Krull, with large wings, is a little top heavy.

I could do with a source of metal sheet though, if anyone has nay suggestions, biscuit tins aren't deep enough to protect them from exterior impact enough for my liking, and the adhesive magnetic sheet doesn't stick as well as proper metal.

My thoughts were, if I could get it to work, get a sheet of iron and epoxy it to the "walls" and bottom of my toolbox, secure the metal models to the bottom and the plastic ones to the sides, then in the middle keep any loose Gaunts or Genestealers that won't get damaged much rumbling around. Though I have no idea if this would work.

 azreal13 wrote:
Yep, Neodymium magnets fixed to the bottom of a Mierce miniatures Krull, and a FW GUO.

When attached to a metal sheet, I feel I could (not brave enough to try) turn them upside down.

They're both resin, but they're biiiig, and Krull, with large wings, is a little top heavy.

I could do with a source of metal sheet though, if anyone has nay suggestions, biscuit tins aren't deep enough to protect them from exterior impact enough for my liking, and the adhesive magnetic sheet doesn't stick as well as proper metal.

Google "Steel Paper" - this is the thin steel sheets you want to glue into a box big enough for your models. Or check out http://www.magneticdisplays.co.uk

richred_uk wrote:

 azreal13 wrote:
Yep, Neodymium magnets fixed to the bottom of a Mierce miniatures Krull, and a FW GUO.

When attached to a metal sheet, I feel I could (not brave enough to try) turn them upside down.

They're both resin, but they're biiiig, and Krull, with large wings, is a little top heavy.

I could do with a source of metal sheet though, if anyone has nay suggestions, biscuit tins aren't deep enough to protect them from exterior impact enough for my liking, and the adhesive magnetic sheet doesn't stick as well as proper metal.

Google "Steel Paper" - this is the thin steel sheets you want to glue into a box big enough for your models. Or check out http://www.magneticdisplays.co.uk

Fantastic! Thanks! If I go that route that will definitely help!

Sorry to ask again but back to my original point, does anyone have a suggestion for a gloss varnish/protectant that doesn't mess with washes, and that dullcote will take the shine off of?

On steel sheets for magnetized transport: Just head down to Lowes or Home depot - you should be able to pick up some thin (28g or less - doesn't need to be terribly stiff if it's getting glued onto something stable) galvanized sheet (sold as roof flashing) or even cut up a section of ductwork, if you have some shears. Galvy won't rust on you and is significantly cheaper than stainless. Since you aren't trying to weld the stuff or add a nice polish, there's no need to pay for "nicer" materials, let alone pay the price bump for niche marketed stuff.

As for varnish, by and large, gloss is gloss and Dulcote will take the shine off of any gloss varnish. I haven't gone as far as testing brush-on craft paint brand offerings, but any acrylic spray I've used has been comparable to the others (with the exception of "extra thick" offerings, which I'd warn against trying). For brush-on options, Vallejo gloss and Pledge FloorCare (current incarnation of Future in the US) give similar results, but behave differently out of the bottle (the Pledge is thinner, clearer while liquid, and contains a healthy dose of surfactant).

I believe the issue with Dulcote causing washes to run is due to the solvent used being harsher than that in acrylics, it being a lacquer. Using any acrylic gloss varnish first, whether brushed on or sprayed, should circumvent the issue entirely, along with adding layers of protection. Still, be sure to give your wash plenty of time to dry before varnishing and avoid repeatedly brushing over the same area, just to be safe.

If you're looking for tried and tested brush-on products, I feel confident recommending either of the aforementioned two - the Vallejo being easier to use (stays where you put it instead of wanting to pool in recesses, thicker consistency means fewer coats for equivalent coverage, reduced tendency to produce bubbles when brushed too much), the Pledge being more flexible (also great as a wash/airbrushing additive) and much cheaper per volume (27oz bottle for a few bucks).

Any time I dullcote something, it always gets an airbrush cote of Liquitex gloss varnish.

I've used both version of dullcote, and I've not had trouble with either one.

Dullcote on it's own, I've found, does not protect very well. So I did the gloss varnish initially to help protect, but found it kept the dullcote from mucking around with the color.

As for steel sheeting, Oadie nailed it. I wen to Lowes and got a roll of roof flashing for a friend. We easily cut it with shears and liquid nailed it into a tool box. He carries a large demon army around with no real issues.

I have a metal tool box that I keep my undead in. All the models have magnetic tape on the underside of the bases. The box came with loads of drill bits of all types & was pretty cheap. Because the bits are held in trays they are easy to store separately.
This is the sort of tape I'm talking about - http://www.first4magnets.com/tape-strip-magnets-c85/self-adhesive-magnets-t165?gclid=CMvSu_H_2LwCFQgOwwod1xMA4w
I use the 19mm for 20mm & 40mm bases & 25mm tape for 25mm & 50mm bases. It does raise the height a bit but I don't mind due to the bonuses the tape provides.
I have also found magnet sheets to line my movement trays with but as you talking about 40K this is not relevant, but, again, this is what I'm talking about - http://www.first4magnets.com/large-metre-sheet-magnets-c82/flexible-magnets-t141

As for gloss varnish, the best way is to spray. In a cols climate it can fog up. I can't think of a solution except to try & find something like a multi-storey garage which will be sheltered & maybe a little warmer than outside or a workshop? Ask your friends & place where you work if they have anywhere or have any ideas.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
Just found this which would be great for cavalry - http://www.first4magnets.com/rectangular-magnets-c35/a4-sheet-of-48-self-adhesive-magnetic-rectangles-50mm-x-24mm-x-0-7mm-p3706 & this for 25mm bases - http://www.first4magnets.com/square-magnets-c36/a4-sheet-of-96-self-adhesive-magnetic-squares-25mm-x-25mm-x-0-76mm-p3705.

These http://www.first4magnets.com/circular-disc-rod-magnets-c34/a4-sheet-of-88-self-adhesive-magnetic-dots-20mm-dia-x-0-7mm-p3479 might work for round 25mm bases.
Note I fill the bottom of my bases with ready-mix plaster filler - I think you guys call it 'spackle'. I then coat it with watered-down wood glue (Elmers or similar) to seal it before applying the magnets.

As Bubber said try spraying a gloss coat first then a matte. I myself Use "Future" http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pledge-Floor-Care-27-fl-oz/15136693

Then I apply my Matte of choice. You can mix the dullcoat in if you like.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSbvuhYyTtM

Fantastic! You guys are amazing, thank you! You've all been incredibly helpful, I'll be putting this to use soon!

i use GW brush on 'ard coat' gloss varnish for protection then dullcote to kill the shine. you'll pay through the nose for dullcote spray if you can even find it but i use the brush on stuff in an airbrush and it works perfectly and works out hugely cheaper for the quantity you buy.