Basic Painting and Preparation

by Scarab

How do I get started painting?
What tools will I need?
How do I care for my brushes?
How do I keep a good point on my brush?
How do I prepare my models for painting?
Why should I prime?
How do I prime my models?
How much primer is enough?
What color should I prime?
Can I prime with a can of base color?
Now that I have my model prepared, how do I start base coating?
How thin should my paint be?
What color should I use to basecoat?
How do I paint metallic colors?
What do I do now that my model is base coated?

Q:        How do I get started painting?

A:         Painting can be very intimidating.  If you look at the models posted in Dakka?s modeling forum you will see some amazing work.  Remember, however, that all these painters had to start somewhere, and the key to becoming a good painter is practice.  Start with a fairly straightforward color scheme, take the time to prepare and undercoat (prime) the model properly, and focus on achieving a neat rather than ambitious finish, and you're on your way.

Q:        What tools will I need?

A:         A Citadel basic painting set is a fine place to start and comes with the primary colors you will need as well as basic brushes.  You may also want to buy a few extra colors that you know you want to use and a few extra brushes.

Q:        How do I care for my brushes?

A:            Paintbrushes are fairly expensive and fragile, but can last quite a while if treated well.  Never let paint dry on your brush (except when drybrushing, but this destroys brushes, as noted below).  In most cases, this means that you should wash out your brush in water after every few trips between the paint pot and the model.  Never squash the brush down against the bottom of the water container or leave the brush standing up on its bristles.  The bristles should always stay together.  When you are done with a brush, shape the bristles into a point and put a protector over them.  Companies make brush cleaners that also will hold the bristles in a healthy shape.

Q:        How do I keep a good point on my brush?

A:         The quality of the point of a brush is much more important than its size.  An experienced painter can do nearly anything on a model with a standard sized Citadel brush with a good point.  Caring for your brushes as described above will help maintain the point.  While you are using the brush, you can shape the point against a paper towel each time you rinse it out.  Some painters shape the brush with their lips, but this risks getting paint in your mouth and is only appropriate for non-toxic paints.

Q:        How do I prepare my models for painting?

A:         Before commencing painting, wash the model in warm water and detergent to remove any dust, oil or other residue (and let it dry fully before you start painting!).

Q:        Why should I prime?

A:             Priming, or undercoating, is a vital step.  The primer seals the surface of the model, giving you a better finish.  In the case of plastic models, the primer provides a far better surface for the paint, because acrylics do not 'take' to bare plastic well.  Priming is also a good way of checking whether you've done enough preparation, because it will reveal any flaws such as molding seams.

Q:        How do I prime my models?

A:         The easiest way is to apply the primer is using an appropriate spray paint.  Games Workshop?s spray primers are generally very good for this, though they can be temperamental, and seem to react adversely to humidity.  Pay close attention to the application guidelines on the can.  Spray in short bursts, and avoid holding the nozzle too close to the model (no closer than 6" is a good rule of thumb).  Keep the can moving to avoid too much paint accumulating.   Spray a couple of thin layers rather than one thick one, and allow the paint to dry fully between layers.

Q:        How much primer is enough?

A:         One must strike a balance between getting good coverage and putting on so much paint that detail is obscured.  In general, the primer coat can be light and need not get into every little crack and nook in the model.

Q:        What color should I prime?

A:         Black primer is better for models that will have a darker overall appearance and models with lots of metal and white primer is better for more colorful models.  If you have some of each, I recommend white primer because it is much easier to paint black over white areas than white over black areas and the color is brighter.  Other modelers prefer a default of black and like the fact that black will tend to absorb some of the color, resulting in a more muted finish.

Q:        Can I prime with a spray can of base color?

A:         In some cases, it may be possible to prime with a colored primer.  For example, Games Workshop produces a Blood Angels Red that may be suitable for priming models that will be primarily red.  One danger with using colored primer is that in order to save yourself from having to base coat further with the color, you will want a good coat, which can obscure detail.

Q:        Now that I have my model prepared, how do I start base coating?

A:         In order to start base coating, you will need to have a basic color scheme in mind.  Pick a color for each major portion of the model and neatly apply it to the model with your brush (a Citadel standard brush is fine for this).  It is more important that you get paint on every part of the model than that you pick out every detail at this stage.  You will usually find it easier to paint the model from inside to out.  For example, starting with flesh, then armor, then a tabard over the armor.  This order allows you to simply paint over any mistakes in the previous layer as you go.

Q:        How thin should my paint be?

A:         As with priming, you must strike a balance between good coverage and obscuring detail.  Citadel paints tend to require at least 2 coats to provide good coverage.  Thin layers of paint are invariably preferable to thick ones, as this ensures even coverage and helps eliminate brush marks.

Q:        What color should I use to basecoat?

A:         As you will see in the answers below on highlighting, this can be quite a complicated question.  For a beginner, I suggest just using the color you want the part you are painting to be.  In other words, if you want the tabard to be Enchanted Blue when you are done, paint it Enchanted Blue.  Once you have more experience, you may want to use a darker color as the base coat then a lighter color for the highlights.

Q:        How do I paint metallic colors?

A:         Metals almost always look better painted over a black basecoat.  Paint the area that will be metal black and then paint the metal onto the black, leaving the black showing where the metal meets another color or where there is a crack or recess, such as between armor plates.  Metal colors are often great candidates for a highlighting technique known as drybrushing.  For more on this technique, see below.  For a brighter finish, use yellow or red as the base coat for the metallic color.

Q:        What do I do now that my model is base coated?

A:         If you are just getting started, you may be happy with the model as it stands and are ready to base and seal it.  If you want to do more, consider highlighting the model.

 

Highlighting

by Scarab

<TABLE > <TBODY> <TR > <TD >

Why should I highlight?
How do I highlight?
What is inking?
What are the pros and cons of inking?
What surfaces can I ink?
How do I ink?
How do I pick the color of ink?
The ink didn't dry in the recesses, what did I do wrong?
What is washing and how is it different from inking?
What is drybrushing?
What are the pros and cons of drybrushing?
What surfaces can I drybrush?
How do I drybrush?
How do I pick the color to drybrush with?
What is edging?
What are the pros and cons of edging?
How do I edge?
What color should I edge with?
What is blacklining?
When do I blackline?
How do I blackline?
What is blending?
How can I get started on blending?
How can I make the steps between shades look less dramatic without doing many layers?
What is glazing and how do I do it?
How do I highlight metal?
What is NMM?
How do I highlight black?
How do I paint gems and lenses?
Can I combine highlighting techniques?
What are micron pens and where can I get them?

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Dakka Modeling forum contributor "Know_Your_Chickn" has highlighted a variety of metal finishes on this model.

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Exodite's swooping hawks are a great example of how blacklining can really bring out the details in a model.

Q:        Why should I highlight?

A:         Light does not adjust for the scale of models.  If you take a good look at a life-sized object, you will notice that there are very dark shadows in recesses and very light places where light hits or maybe even glints.  On a model the recesses are no longer deep enough to create the same level of shadow, and the model looks flat.  Thus, most people prefer to add highlights to the model.

Q:        How do I highlight?

A:         There are several common techniques that are used for a variety of purposes and skill levels, these include inking, washing, drybrushing, edging, blacklining, and blending.  Each of these gets individual treatment below, but the basic idea of highlighting is to get darker paint where there should be shadow and lighter paint where light would strike.  Knowing where to put the paint to create a realistic look is not always easy.  I suggest studying models done by painters you admire as a starting point.  Putting a model directly under a bright light may also help you see where the shadows should go.

Q:        What is inking?

A:         Inking is a technique in which a dark ink is painted over a lighter base color.  If done properly, the ink settles into recesses and creates the appearance of shadows.

Q:        What are the pros and cons of inking?

A:         Inking can create dramatic shading with minimal effort and without the need to identify where the shading should go.  Ink can also look rough and uneven, because the consistency of the ink varies.

Q:        What surfaces can I ink?

A:         Inking is best on textured surfaces.  Inking on large, open surfaces often simply leads to a blotchy appearance and should generally be avoided.  You are at the mercy of the sculptor when inking; ink is directed by the shape of the model and not the painter.

Q:        How do I ink?

A:         The ink probably will require thinning.  Simply paint the ink onto the area you want to shade and try not to let it pool excessively.  It may take a couple of layers (each applied after the previous one dries) to get the desired shading.  Do not do any other painting until the ink is completely dry, or the ink will bleed into the paint and ruin your model.

Q:        How do I pick the color of ink?

A:         The ink should be a few shades darker than the base color you want to highlight and is preferably the same hue.  For example, an ork?s skin painted with Goblin Green can be inked with Dark Green ink.  If there is no similar shade of ink that is dark enough, warmer colors may be inked with brown and cooler colors with black.  Chestnut ink is excellent for red.  Experiment on a small area if you are unsure.  Planning ahead counts too ? if your basecoat a shade lighter than your desired outcome, the inking process produces better and more dramatic results.

Q:        The ink didn?t dry in the recesses, what did I do wrong?

A:         This is a common problem related to the surface tension of the ink.  The surface tension resists the ink settling into the cracks and makes what looked great wet look lousy dry.  There are a few ways to reduce the surface tension: one is to add a little dish soap (a very little!), another is to add some Future® acrylic floor way to the ink.  A ratio of 5:1 ink to wax has been reported to be acceptable, but I personally use more wax.  Ink with wax added is sold commercially under the name Wonderwash.

Q:        What is washing and how is it different from inking?

A:             Washing involves adding heavily diluted paint, and is otherwise much the same as inking.  Washing tends to be more subtle, however, and is therefore useful for adding depth and tone to a color where you don't want the more pronounced contrast that you get from inking. Washes of black will gradually darken a color, or add depth to folds during the highlighting process. Washing can also be used as a weathering technique (see below).

Q:        What is drybrushing?

A:             Drybrushing is a technique where a brush carrying a very small amount of lighter color is dragged across the surface of the model, so that only the raised areas catch the paint, providing an instant highlighting effect.  It can also be used to add weathering effects (see below), and to paint metallic colors.

Q:        What are the pros and cons of drybrushing?

A:             Drybrushing can create dramatic highlights quickly.  Drybrushing can also look a little grainy and may not be neat enough for some tastes, though if carefully done drybrushing can be useful for any skill level.  The best drybrushing effects are achieved by building up layers of paint gradually, lightening the color with each layer.

Q:        What surfaces can I drybrush?

A:             Drybrushing is best on textured surfaces, and on angular shapes. It will provide a fast and attractive highlight on folds of cloth, bones and armor.  It is also good for highlighting the edges of large vehicles.  Drybrushing on large, open surfaces or smooth curves often simply leads to a streaky or rough looking surface and should generally be avoided.

Q:        How do I drybrush?

A:             Drybrushing requires practice, but the technique is quite simple.  Put some paint on a brush and wipe most of it off on a paper towel.  Carefully draw the brush over the textured areas you want to highlight.  You can use more paint/more coats (referred to as heavier drybrushing) where you want a more dramatic highlight.  You can go back later and fix any areas that you hit accidentally.  Don?t let the paint get too dry on the brush or it will get grainy.  Drybrushing destroys brushes; use an old brush, if possible, although the Citadel brushes designed for drybrushing are very good.

Q:        How do I pick the color to drybrush with?

A:         The drybrushing color should be lighter than the base color you want to highlight and is preferably the same general hue.  I usually highlight the color I used as a base with Skull White for cooler colors or Bleached Bone for warmer colors to create the drybrush color.  Planning ahead counts too ? if you basecoat a shade darker than the desired outcome, the drybrushing process produces better and more dramatic results.

Q:        What is edging?

A:         Edging is a highlighting technique where a highlight is painted onto the edges of the model.

Q:        What are the pros and cons of edging?

A:         Edging looks neater than drybrushing, but is harder to get right and looks artificial because the highlight has a hard edge.  The most common mistake with edging is to paint the highlight is too thick.  Edging also doesn?t work where the model doesn?t have well defined edges.  It's best employed on vehicles and weapons, where you want to want to retain the base color but still suggest the light catching the edges.  Edging is relatively quick, but more experienced modelers tend to use it only as a finishing technique.

Q:        How do I edge?

A:         Using a fine brush, paint the edges of armor plates, guns, and the like with a color lighter than your base color.  Make the lines as thin and neat as possible.  Try to think about where light would hit and make the edging more dramatic in these locations.  Keep the line very thin.

Q:        What color should I edge with?

A:         Like drybrushing, edging is a highlighting technique.  The edging color should be a few shades lighter than the base color you want to highlight and is preferably the same general hue.  I usually create a highlight color by lightening the color I used as a base with Skull White for cooler colors or Bleached Bone for warmer colors.

Q:        What is blacklining?

A:             Blacklining is the opposite of edging.  A darker color (often black) is painted into recesses or between areas of differing color.

Q:        When do I blackline?

A:         When there are narrow cracks that should appear deep on the model (such as the cracks between panels of power armor) or when there are two areas of color with insufficient distinction between them.  This technique is still used to paint toy soldiers; done well, it gives you a neat and attractive model, but does not create a natural finish.

Q:        How do I blackline?

A:         You need a very good brush and a steady hand.  Apply black or dark brown (for a warmer look) to the cracks, or to define a thin line between colors.

Q:        What is blending?

A:             Blending means a lot of things to different people.  As commonly used, it simply means creating a gradual transition between colors, as opposed to noticeable steps.  It is not a technique confined to highlighting.  Expert painters blend colors together as well as blending highlights to create both realistic and fantastic effects.  For most painters, blending does not actually mean mixing and blending paints on the model the way oil painters do, though it can be done with acrylic extenders and other techniques.  Instead, what most painters do is to build up layers of thinned paint, effectively creating a series of steps that is not noticeable to the eye.  This is more properly referred to as layering.

Q:        How can I get started on blending?

A:         The first step toward blending is layering, in other words, to add more successive layers of highlights.  Instead of highlighting with one lighter shade, choose a few intermediate shades and apply them in layers.  Each layer should cover a slightly smaller area until the ?final highlight? is just a small spot of white or another light color on the ultimate tip of points and the like.

Q:        How can I make the steps between shades look less dramatic without doing many layers?

A:         It may be possible to ?erase? the lines between successive shades of highlights by applying a very watered down coat of the base color.  Note that this takes practice and that it dulls the highlight so some degree of forethought and ?over highlighting? will be required to create the desired effect.  Another more advanced technique is to add very thin washes of black as you go, as these assist in blurring the line between the shades of color.

Q:        What is glazing and how do I do it?

A:         Glazing is similar to inking, but the purpose is different.  The purpose of glazing is to add intensity and depth to color.  Apply a very thin layer of ink of similar color to the base color to the area to be glazed.

Q:        How do I highlight metal?

A:         There are different ?shades? of metal.  In the Citadel line, they are, in order of brightness, boltgun metal, chain mail, and mithril silver.  For gold, shining gold and burnished gold share a similar relationship.  One common way to highlight metal is to paint the area black and then boltgun metal, as described above, followed by a moderate drybrush of chainmail and a light drybrush of mithril silver.  Inking with black ink with a small amount of dark blue mixed in may further bring out the detail.  For a rusty look, chestnut ink may be used.

Q:        What is NMM?

A:         Non-metal metal. NMM, uses smoothly blended shades of gray to simulate the appearance of metal, instead of using a metallic paint.

Q:        How do I highlight black?

A:         There are many answers to this question.  The goal is to keep the area so that it looks black, while also bringing out the shape and detail.  Generally, highlights will be gray, and I have achieved a look I liked with a very light drybrush of Shadow Gray followed by an extremely light drybrush of Space Wolf Grey.  Fortress Gray and Ghostly Gray may produce a similar effect that is less blue.

Q:        How do I paint gems and lenses?

A:         The fifth edition Warhammer High Elf Army Book has an excellent tutorial on different methods of painting gems.  The trick is to ?reverse highlight? with the lighter colors painted near the base of the gem, rather than the top.  To create depth, the majority of the gem should remain fairly dark.  As an example, to produce a deep red gem, paint the gem black, then ¾ of it Scab Red, then 1/3 Red Gore, then a thin stripe of Blood Red with a small highlight of orange.  Each color is layered over the previous one.  To create a glint of light off the shiny surface, add a tiny spot of Skull White to the top of the gem opposite the Blood Red Highlight.  If you study some well-painted gems you will see that they look best if the colors are applied such that the light is coming from an angle, rather than directly above.

Q:        Can I combine highlighting techniques?

A:         You can and you should.  Different techniques work better on different models or parts of models.  For example, an Ork model might have skin painted using inks, drybrushed weapons and edged and blacklined clothing.

Q:        What are micron pens and where can I get them?

A:         Micron pens can be purchased at most good art supply stores (e.g., A.C. Moore or Michaels.)  They can be used for spotting the eyes of a model, lettering, or any fine detail work that might be beyond the capabilities of a brush.  I am told that the 005 size is best suited for eyes and lettering.  Ink from pens is sometimes water soluble, test this first.  If the ink runs when wetted, then you will need to do any work with the ink just before sealing or risk the ink getting into other paint that you apply.

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Airbrushing

by KoNemesis

What should I look for when buying an Airbrush?
What kind of compressor should I buy?
What paints can I use?
But I want to use Citadel colors, what can I do?
Where do I airbrush?
How do I get started using an airbrush?
What can I do with an airbrush?
How do I undercoat with an Airbrush?
How do I basecoat a model with an airbrush?
What's the best use for an airbrush?
How do I paint a vehicle with an airbrush?
How do I go do camo patterns?

Q:        What should I look for when buying an Airbrush?

A:             Airbrushes come in two types: single action and double action.  Single action allows you to control the flow of air, while double action allows you to control both airflow and paint flow.  Whenever your budget allows, go for a double action, gravity fed Airbrush.  Remember to include in you budget enough money for a compressor, since air bottles are more expensive, less reliable, and subject to freezing.  Get a moisture trap for your hose, one droplet of water and there goes the job.

Q:        What kind of compressor should I buy?

A:         There are all sorts of compressors; for those with a tight budget, get the cheapest compressor you can get, but always with a moisture trap, and at least 5 atm/bar of pressure.  Fancy stuff like purge valves and manometers can always be added later.  If you are not on a tight budget go for the silent types made by some model companies.

Q:        What Paints can I use?

A:         <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:City><st1:place>Vallejo</st1:place></st1:City> has a very good line called Model air that is perfect for airbrushing, you just put the paint straight from the bottle into the airbrush and paint.  Tamiya acrylic paints are also designed for airbrushing, and are fairly easy to find.

Q:        But I want to use citadel colors, what can I do?

A:         If you want to use citadel paints, you?ll have to dilute them, the best way to do this is to make a solution of 50% water 50% car window washer (blue liquid stuff around here), then mix it with the paint 60% mix to 40% paint.

Q:        Where do I airbrush?

A:         The easiest answer is outside, but to those who live in apartments or condos that might be tricky, so you either build a paint station or buy one, a paint station is simply a box that doesn?t allow the paint flow to get all over the place.  Airbrushing should be done with adequate ventilation; clearly, this is vital were the paint may be toxic or where window washer fluid is used in the paint.

Q:        How do I get started using an air brush?

A:         Before using the airbrush on a model, test it on a piece of paper or cardboard to get used to adjusting the air and paint flow.  This is something that has to be done by the owner of the airbrush and can?t be readily explained.  The only thing to remember is, do no start the airbrushing on a model itself, since when you press the button, the flow isn?t stable.  Start off the model.

Q:        What can I do with an airbush?

A:         Almost everything, but mainly you can undercoat models, prime them and do great degrades.  Airbrushes are particularly good for larger models like vehicles and are great for camouflage schemes.

Q:        How do I undercoat with an Airbrush?

A:         Just like you would with a spray can (see above) but you can be a bit more thorough since the paint isn?t as thick.

Q:        How do I basecoat a model with an Airbrush?

A:         Now this is tricky; if you undercoated your models with black and want the shadows to be seen, you?ll have to be very careful at this stage. First, shadows are generally found under stuff, so you?ll have to airbrush you model from the head, which means, align the head of the model with the flow line of the airbrush and paint. This is very tricky to do, so if you don?t feel up to it, just paint the whole model in the base color and use standard brush techniques to do the rest.

Q:        What?s the best use for an Airbrush?

A:         An airbrush is ideal to paint large surfaces, such as vehicles, and large quantities of models with the same base color, such as marines, guardians, gaunts etc.

Q:        How do I paint a vehicle with an Airbrush?

A:         To paint a vehicle or any other large surface with an airbrush, paint a series of S shapes, which helps provide even coverage.  With practice, you can do camo patterns, which look especially good airbrushed.

Q:        How do I go do camo patterns?

A:         This is the stuff Airbrushes were made to do, first, you?ll have to decide on the pattern you want to apply to the vehicle, then you might even mark it (in a smaller area than the one that will be covered) to follow it with the airbrush.  It would be a good idea to look in military reference books for historical camo patterns, as this will give you ideas for what looks good

Converting

by Scarab

Q:        What is converting?

A:             Converting a model can mean anything from just re-positioning a limb or adding a few extra details to extensive remodeling.  The most satisfying aspect of converting is that your model becomes unique, rather than just one of many identical ones.  Converting can also allow you to produce convincing models to represent army list entries, such as Storm Guardians, that Games Workshop does not yet make.  Individual Q&A?s about converting some of the more common of these models follow.

There are a wide variety of techniques involved in converting.  Plastic figures are the easiest to convert, both because there is a wide range of parts and because they are simpler to cut and assemble.  Converting plastic vehicles usually requires at least a small collection of spare parts (usually referred to as 'bits'), and access to plastic card (see below).  Metal models are perhaps more difficult to work with, because the pewter used by GW is less easily re-shaped, and larger parts need to be pinned (see above) when assembling the model.

Q:        How can I get started converting?

A:            Probably the most basic conversions are weapon swaps.  For example, you may want your commander to have a set wargear that is not sold by Games Workshop.  Weapon swaps are easier if the weapon is only attached at the hand of the model.  If the weapon is fused to the body of the model, you may want to start with another model.  The method for swapping weapons is simple; use a knife or clippers (be careful!) to remove the old weapon from the model and then glue the new one in its place.  Some filing and filling with putty may be required to get a good fit.  If the weapon sticks out from the model, consider pinning it for strength.

Q:        What is plastic card and where do I get it?

A:         Plastic card, also known as sheet styrene, is manufactured specifically for modelers in a variety of thicknesses.  You can also obtain plastic tubing, strips and girders of various widths.  The most widely available brands of plastic card are Evergreen and Tamiya.

Q:        How do I use plastic card?

A:         As with all aspects of modeling, care and patience are essential.  Thinner card is easily cut using a steel ruler and a sharp knife (be careful and cut away from you!).  Draw the shape in pencil before cutting it out - it's best to cut down onto a wooden board. Thicker card can be cut by scoring and snapping - draw out the shape, score a deep line along the edges, then carefully bend the sheet of plastic where you've scored it.  It should snap cleanly along the scored line (putting it in the freezer for a while makes it more brittle and easier to snap).  Clean up the edge by sanding it.  Plastic card is assembled using polystyrene cement, just like a plastic kit.

Q:        How can I make a Wave Serpent?

A:            Forgeworld now makes a decent Wave Serpent kit, though it is a bit pricey.  There are many ways to convert one?s own Wave Serpent most of which are based on the Falcon model.  The essential differences from a Falcon are a) the energy field on the prow, b) the larger troop compartment, and c) the different turret configuration, with twin-linked weapons.  White Dwarf 238 contains plans for a conversion, though in my opinion it doesn?t have sleek enough lines for Eldar.  The trick is to produce a model that is attractive and clearly different from a Falcon.  Snord converted a Wave Serpent by using a Vyper to replace the driver?s cockpit after seeing something similar on Dakka.

            My own Wave Serpent conversion is fairly straightforward.  I cut an arch out of balsa wood sized such that it connects the two projecting front portions of the prow of the Falcon in a smooth curve.  I cut out two sides, a top and a bottom to create an extended transport compartment at the back.  The sides can be tricky as the hatch and hull are fit together oddly and your sides will have to match.  I suggest using the side of the hatch to sketch a template.  I use superglue to strengthen the balsa wood and sandpaper and putty to get a good finish.  For the turret I use a Falcon turret and mount the appropriate gun on either side of it, holding them in place with pins.  Alternatively, you could build your own turret - Snord used a turret from a small-scale tank kit.

Q:        How can I make Storm Guardians?

A:         The easiest option is to convert a box of Guardian Defenders.  Instead of using the normal Defender arms, order Eldar close combat sprues from Games Workshop mail order and use the arms from these instead.  Alternatively, you can use the arms from the Defenders, remove the shuriken catapults, and add the weapons from the close combat sprue.  If you can?t get the sprue, you may need to remove the needed weapons from aspect warriors and place them on the Defender arms, which can be expensive.

Q:        How can I make Ork Skarboyz?

A:             Skarboyz are the most popular Elite choice for Orks, but there are at present no specific models available. They are 'exceptionally big and strong', but that doesn't mean you have to resort to buying a whole unit of metal Nobz models. The plastic Ork sprues contain most of what you need, but the plastic Warhammer Orc chariot contains some very useful heads and other bits such as arms clad in armor. Choose a theme for your Skarboyz - maybe they all have bare heads, or they all have horned helmets. Then add the 'skars' - you can do this by making narrow cuts in their arms, and by modeling raised scars using putty. They might also have missing ears and eyes (easily removed with a knife). Add studs to their foreheads (a blob of putty or a rivet cut from a spare vehicle part). Give them plenty of shoulder pads, and trophies such as severed heads, and perhaps mini boss-poles (the Chaos vehicle sprue is idea for this). Soup up their weapons by adding more spikes and blades. Finally, paint them in a distinctive color scheme, and perhaps give them a darker skin color than the other boyz in your army.

Q:        How can I make a Battlewagon?

A:         The Ork codex is vague on precisely what a Battlewagon is meant to look like, but the starting point is that it has to look as though it can carry 20 Orks. It seems to be accepted that it needs to be about as big as the Land Raider, although many people build much larger ones. Before you start, decide what the theme of your Battlewagon is i.e. whether it's to be a captured Imperial vehicle or something the Orks have built from scratch. The Land Raider itself is an ideal basis for a Battlewagon based on a captured vehicle - it's a simple matter to remove the roof and 'Orkify' it (see below). Alternatively, for a scratch-built Battlewagon, have a look at <st1:time Minute="35" Hour="13">1:35</st1:time> scale plastic military kits. Go for something with a relatively simple basic shape (because it will look as though it was designed by Orks), and which looks as though it can be modified to carry a lot of Orks. The later WWII German Panzers are very good - the Tiger and Sturmtiger are available from several manufacturers. Large half-tracks are also an excellent basis - again, the German types are best. 

Start with the basic chassis.  Leave off most of the smaller details, and build up a superstructure using plastic card and/or pieces of other models. Try and keep a basic design in mind, or it won't look like anything. Add Orky weapons and other bits (such as armor plates, glyphs and trophies).

One important thing to bear in mind when using other kits to build WH40k vehicles - make sure the details are consistent with other Games Workshop models, or it will look out of place next to your other models. Remember that <st1:time Minute="35" Hour="13">1:35</st1:time> scale hatches, handles and ladders are usually too small for Warhammer 40k figures, and should be replaced with chunkier ones. It's also a good idea to remove very fine details (such as rivets) because they will look out of scale.

Q:        How can I make Extra Armor?

A:         Extra Armor is considered an almost essential upgrade for Rhinos and other Imperial transports. Up until recently, however, it hasn't been available in kit form, and there hasn't been much guidance on what it's supposed to look like.  Real military vehicles often receive armor upgrades, and these can take the form of large slabs of armor plate that cover the whole of the original armor, smaller plates that just cover important areas, or more exotic varieties like 'reactive' armor (which looks like rows of small hollow boxes) and 'spaced' armor (which consists of thin plates that are attached away from the vehicle itself). It's a good idea to have a look at a book on armor to get some idea of how it looks, rather than just randomly attaching things to your model. With the introduction of the new Rhino kit, Forgeworld has begun to produce a range of extra armor pieces. They are, however quite expensive, and not to everyone's taste.

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Snord's converted Razorback with extra armor.  Note the extensive use of plastic card.

The most straightforward way of modeling Extra Armor is to use plastic card.  Attach it when you've completed the basic assembly.  It looks best if it follows the general shape of the armor you're attaching it to, but is slightly smaller.  Alternatively, make lots of smaller plates.  The armor would always be attached to the front, and probably on the sides as well.  Make sure it doesn't cover important features like engine vents and hatches!  You might like the roughen up the edge, by cutting small chunks out of it, to show it's an improvised modification, or you might want it to be very smooth. Add some bolts or rivets to show how it's been attached (cut them off an old kit, or use the boltheads from Citadel's plastic tank traps), and maybe add other detail (such as an Imperial eagle) so it blends in better with the rest of the model.

You can also make Extra Armor using the casting techniques described in the casting section.

Green Stuff

by Mastiff

What is green stuff?
How do I speed up/slow down the curing time?
How do I prepare a miniature for adding green stuff?
What other alternatives are there to green stuff?
What tools will I need?

Q:        What is greenstuff?

A:         Also known as Kneadatite®, greenstuff is a two-part epoxy putty that comes in the form of a blue and yellow tape. When the two halves are kneaded together, they produce a strong, green putty that cures at room temperature and has a working life of one and a half to two hours. You can also choose to use more blue curing agent for faster, harder curing understructures, or more of the yellow base for slower, softer curing putty ideal for detail work. Please note that in <st1:place>North America</st1:place>, Games Workshop has switched to a blue and white tape.

Q:        How do I speed up/slow down the curing time?

A:             Temperature will affect the curing (drying) time. Heat will cure it faster.  You can hold a piece under a lamp to speed up the drying time.  Beware of too much heat, which may cause the greenstuff to run.  On the other hand, you can store mixed, unused putty in the freezer to prevent it from curing for an extra hour or so. 

Q:        How do I prepare a miniature for adding greenstuff?

A:         Most additions will need some sort of under support. A new limb should have a wire understructure pinned to the rest of the miniature, or the putty will be too flexible to hold its shape. More solid shapes such as a head should first have a small blob of putty pinned in place.  Once it dries, softer putty can be added to add features and details.

Q:        What other alternatives are there to greenstuff?

A:         Milliput is a cheaper alternative to greenstuff, but has a rougher finish. It's ideal for building up large areas of putty and dries much harder than greenstuff.  The two can also be mixed together to blend the properties.  Milliput can also be sanded when dry, for a smoother finish.  Magicsculpt is another alternative similar to Milliput.

The blue putty sold in <st1:place>North America</st1:place> is slightly stiffer than the greenstuff when it dries. Otherwise they're very similar. The same company that produces Kneadatite also makes brownstuff, which is ideal for sharp, straight edges.

Sculpy is a soft clay that holds detail well, and will not dry until baked in an oven.

Q:        What tools will I need?

A:         Some tools can be found around the house, such as toothpicks, knives or small screwdrivers. Small manicure sets can be priceless. Others can be found at art supply shops, particularly in the sculpting section.  Used dentists tools are another great option if you can work out a deal with your local dentist.

Warm water: This is the most important tool. If the other tools are not kept moist, they will stick to the putty and destroy the surface. Greenstuff would much rather stick to a metal tool than your model. Your fingers should also be kept moist, to prevent fingerprints from marring the surface. Oil-based lubricants can also be used, such as Vaseline ® petrolatum jelly or vegetable oil, but be sure to clean it off when the putty is dry or new pieces won't stick to it. You can run older greenstuff under warm water while mixing the tape together to help it soften and blend better.

A knife: For cutting fresh or cured putty.

A flat bladed tool: For flattening and sculpting. Small knife blades or hobby screwdrivers can work.

A rounded burnishing tool: You can find these at pottery supply stores. They have a small metal ball at one end, and can be used to rub areas that are partially cured for a smoother "burnished" finish.

A thin punching tool: Such as an awl or round toothpick for creating small holes.

Wire tool: Basically a wooden handle with a stiff metal loop at the end, that can be used to cut wide, even grooves in sculpting material. A wire too is ideal for making flowing robes, with lots of practice.

Weathering

by Snord

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What is weathering?
Why add weathering to a model?
How do I weather a tank?
How do I weather a skimmer?
How do I weather a non-Marine miniature?
How do I weather a Marine miniature?

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Snord's tank shows a bit of wear and tear near the lower treads.

Q:        What is weathering?

A:             Weathering is like highlighting - an effect that's added to make your miniatures look more natural.  In reality, any soldier or military vehicle quickly assumes a 'used and abused' appearance.  Vehicles accumulate mud, dust rust and oil stains, weapons become worn, and armor becomes scratched and dirty.  Military modelers almost invariably add weathering effects to their models.  However, while highlighting is virtually the norm for wargaming models, weathering is more a matter of individual taste, because many people prefer their models to have a pristine appearance.

Q         Why add weathering to a model?

A:             Weathering puts the model in context, and adds drama to the subject.  A pristine Space Marine is attractive, but a Marine with a few scratches and a little dirt on his feet suggests that the model has actually seen some combat.  In the context of a science fantasy game, weathering can make otherwise unlikely looking models seem a little more real.  It also adds a layer of interest to the models.  It's important, however, to add weathering effects that are appropriate to the subject, and not to overdo them.

Q:        How do I weather a tank?

A:         Decide firstly how much you want to do. If your troops are relatively pristine, then you won't want your vehicles to look as though they've just driven through a mud bath, and you'll only want to use some of the techniques mentioned here. You'll need to master drybrushing before attempting any of this (more advanced modelers also do a lot of weathering using an airbrush).

The weathering begins after the basic painting is done (i.e. after you've primed it, basecoated it and done some basic highlighting) and after you've attached the decals. Give the model a thin wash of black. Then drybrush it with a slightly lighter version of the base colour. Some people won't want to go much further than this. Note that you should leave the tracks black at this stage.

Next, use either diluted bestial brown or chestnut ink and go back over the model adding rust to rivets and other fittings. Just add a dab to the rivet and it will pool around the side. Add some rust streaks down the side (make sure they start from a fitting, such as a hatch). The tracks require special attention - paint these bestial brown (rust) or an earthy colour (impacted mud). Heat rusts metal as well as moisture does, so the exhausts should be painted a rust color as well. Add some yellow to bestial brown for an orange shade.

Next, give the lower surfaces a heavy drybrush of a dark earthy colour (scorched brown or dark flesh). This represents mud or earth thrown up by the tank's tracks; it will be heavier around the rear of the model. Don't take this too far up the sides. Drybrush a lighter brown over the top - bubonic brown or snakebite leather are good. Take this further up the sides, but don't make it too heavy. The last step is to drybrush the whole model with bleached bone. If you only want a very lightly weathered look, then skip the other colours and just give it a drybrush of bleached bone.
Finally, drybrush some boltgun metal over the areas that would get a lot of wear - hatches, bulldozer blades, engine panels etc. Drybrush the tracks with boltgun metal, representing the rust/mud being worn off and exposing bare metal. You might want to add another wash of rust color over the tracks to bring out the worn metal effect.

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Note the streaks near the engine intake on Snord's grav-tank.

Q:        How do I weather a skimmer?

A:             Obviously, skimmers don't get as dirty as tanks. They would still get dusty and dirty flying around the battlefield - you'd be surprised how battered combat aircraft get. You can still use most of the techniques suggested for weathering tanks, but don't add the dirt effects. One effect you will notice on flying craft is fine horizontal streaks of rust and dirt - add these with a fine brush with almost no paint on it. They will start at an exhaust vent or other feature.

Q:        How do I weather a non-Marine miniature?

A:         You can add a number of small weathering effects to a basic trooper from any army. Whether it's an Ork or a Guardsman, he'll have worn equipment and dirty boots. The most useful color for weathering is bleached bone. Use a small drybrush and gently drybrush the bone color across the tips of the boots, across the cuffs and knees, on the edges of the helmet, and on any equipment such as backpacks and pouches. This will make it look worn and dusty. Weapons can be aged by adding some rust (chestnut ink or diluted Bestial Brown) and drybrushing a little boltgun metal over the edges. Flamers can be made to look well-used by drybrushing black around the muzzle.

Q:        How do I weather a Marine miniature?

A:             Marines and other models in armor are weathered in much the same way as vehicles. Once the basic painting is done, add a little rust around the bolt detail (this is optional - there's a reasonable argument that Marine armor wouldn't rust!). Drybrush boltgun metal across the knees and elbows, and any other areas where the paint would wear off. Add the dirt effects mentioned in the section of weathering vehicles, only make sure you limit this effect to the lower legs. A very light drybrush of bleached bone will make the Marine look as though it's been in action for a while.

Finishing Touches

by Scarab

Q:        Why is basing important?

A:         Basing is often considered an afterthought, but a well finished base can greatly improve the appearance of an otherwise ordinary model, and a messy base can spoil a well painted one.  It is therefore worth spending the time to make your bases look attractive, either by just finishing them neatly and uniformly, or by adding additional texture and detail.  I have even experimented with sculpting and casting my own bases for a truly unique look.

Q:        How do I use flock and static grass?

A:         Paint watered down white glue (PVA glue) onto the area to receive the flock.  Sprinkle the flock or grass on or dip the base into a bin with the flock.  Static grass may be also be applied by pressing a clump onto the glue.  To make static grass stand, you can turn the model upside down and tap it or stand the grass up with the point of a knife.  Consider painting the flock or grass so as not to have some parts of the model unpainted, spoiling the look of the model.

Q:        What is a scenic base?

A:         A scenic base is a base which has been treated with something more than just flock. It might just have some extra groundwork, or it might be quite elaborate, and include a piece of terrain or other models (such as dead bodies). Large models like dreadnoughts have large bases, and provide a lot of scope for adding scenery. The clear plastic flying bases are often left untouched, but they really look better with some scenery - consider treating the bottom of you flying stands like the rest of the bases in your army.

Q:        What are some ways of making scenic bases?

A:         Scenic bases are all about texture to what is otherwise a rather bland part of the model. You don't want something too elaborate, or it will detract from the model itself. Make the base before you do any priming. Use modeling putty, and build up the groundwork, either by sculpting some sort of flagstones, or just natural rock (easily done by bashing the putty with a small rock). It's easiest to do this before the miniature is attached - press it into the putty while it's still wet. Then add some small stones or smashed brick, and some fine flock, for extra texture - attach these with white glue (PVA) or superglue. You might also add some small extras, like a skull, a discarded helmet or a weapon. Then proceed to the painting stage. Note that it's usually easier to paint the base before the rest of the model, although this is a matter of personal taste.

Q:        How do I use flock?

A:         Paint watered down white glue onto the area to receive the flock. Alternatively, you can use paint, applied fairly thickly. Sprinkle the flock or grass on or dip the base into a box containing the flock. Consider painting the flock so as not to have some parts of the model unpainted, spoiling the look of the model. If you do paint it, start by painting the flock black (this will also help hold it in place), then drybrush it with green or brown, depending on whether it's intended to be grass or dirt.

Q:        How do I use static grass?

A:         First, finish the base. It will need to have been flocked (preferably with sand) or otherwise modeled, and painted. You can apply static grass with PVA glue, but superglue is better. Put a small amount of superglue on the desired spot, then get a clump of static grass (it's best to use tweezers). Push it down into the glue - use much more than you need. Turn the model upside down, and tap off the excess static grass back into the container you got it from. Then, blow the grass to make it stand up. Be very careful with this stuff, as it's not good for you if you breathe it in. When it's dry, it's a good idea to paint it with camo green or rotting flesh, to make it look less bright.

Q:        How do I apply decals?

A:         Games Workshops decals were once fairly awful, but the more recent ones are much better, and are worth using because they add a lot of interest to a model. Decals do not usually adhere well to a matte surface. They need a smooth, glossy surface. The way to achieve this is to paint the areas that will receive decals with gloss varnish. Wait for it to dry, then apply the decals, using a decal softener if possible. Decal softeners are produced by Microsol, and are found in specialist hobby shops. Make sure you gently press the decal into place, so there's no air trapped underneath. It's important to varnish the model after the decals have set, both to remove the gloss effect, and to ensure that they won't become brittle and flake off.

Q:        Should I varnish my finished models?

A:             Absolutely. Varnish will protect the paint from dust and humidity and (to some extent) from wear and tear. Unfortunately, it won't protect your models from being dropped or otherwise mistreated! Ideally, you should give your models a coat of gloss varnish and then a coat of matt varnish, because gloss varnish tends to be more durable, but few people do this. Remember too that varnish will tend to darken the colours, and matt varnish also tends to have a dulling effect, so the more varnish you add the darker the overall finish.

Games Workshop produces a matte varnish, but it's not universally popular because it's rather temperamental. Testors Dullcote is better, if you can find it.  Whichever brand you use, spray the whole model with a couple of thin coats, because if it's applied too thickly it will dry glossy.

Rotary Tools

by Graham Sheckels, aka BoB_Lorgar

What is a rotary tool?
So what will I need?
What should I avoid?
What accessories may be useful to me?
So now what do I do with this thing?
Anything else?
 

Q:        What is a rotary tool?

A:         In this treatise, I'm going to discuss what uses a rotary tool can be put to, and what accessories you may find necessary/helpful as you go about your modeling and converting.  The most popular brand of rotary tool is made by the Dremel company, and so many people mistakenly refer to any rotary tool as a Dremel.  Unless otherwise stated, you can assume I'm talking about Dremel brand parts and accessories.

Q:        So what will I need?

A:         Well, first off, you'll have to actually get yourself a rotary tool.  As I stated, the most popular model is made by Dremel.  Their current model is #395.  Other brands include the Sears Craftsman Variable Speed Rotary Tool #00961084000 (which, I believe, is the Dremel #395 marketed under the Sears name), and the Black and Decker RTX High Performance Rotary Tool.  These will all run you around $30.00, bare-bones.  All kinds of starter kits are available which will come with various additional accessories.  These tools? common feature is that they are all variable speed, which is rather important.

Q:        What should I avoid?

A         Cheap knock-offs - they do exist out there.  Myself, I would recommend avoiding them.  You usually get what you pay for, and in my opinion when you're buying power tools (where safety/quality of manufacture are always an issue), you really ought to avoid companies you've never heard of.  Sure you may save $20, but is it worth it if the thing breaks while you're using, and you get seriously injured as a result?

Different bits you may use in your rotary tool are meant to be used at different rpm's.  Using a cutting disc at the wrong speed can not only ruin it (and perhaps the conversion you're working on), but can also pose a significant health hazard.  Being able to adjust the speed is critical to safely getting the most out of your rotary tool.  So I really would make sure you buy a rotary tool which has a variable speed control.  But what if you have an older model rotary tool which isn't a variable speed model, or you bought one of those really cheap imitations?  Well, Dremel sells their Foot Speed Control #221, which consists of a foot pedal you can attach to your older model rotary tool and allows you to adjust the speed by adjusting the amount of electricity which flows into the rotary tool.  You should note that if you're just starting out, it'll be cheaper in the long run to buy a newer rotary tool which has a built in speed control.

There may be some debate on this, but I'd recommend against any of the cordless rotary tools available. Their primary feature (not having to plug into the wall) probably won't be a factor while you're sitting at your hobby desk, and generally corded models will be able to supply more power.

Q:        What accessories may be useful to me?

A:         The most important accessory you can buy is a pair of safety goggles!  Like any power saw or drill, this thing can send tiny metal bits flying while you're using it.  Serious injury (up to and including blindness) could result from them striking you in the eye.  You should ALWAYS wear safety goggles while operating this thing.

For a Dremel ® tool, I highly recommend their three foot long Flex-Shaft Attachment, #225. This is, as the name implies, a flexible shaft that attaches to the Dremel ® tool. What it allows you to do is use the rotary tool much as you would use a pencil. The basic model is rather awkward to grip and use on small parts (such as your miniatures), and the Flex-Shaft is fantastic at allowing you to control where the bit is going and what it is doing.  They retail for about $25, and in my opinion are an almost mandatory accessory.

I also recommend a Dremel Keyless Chuck #4486.  There are several different shaft sizes for the bits you may want to use.  Unfortunately, your basic model rotary tool will only be able to grip a small range of them.  The part that grips the bits is called a collet, and it will only come with a single collet, which can only accept a small range of shaft sizes.  Of course, you can always buy other collets which will take bits with smaller or larger shafts.  This can be a pain in the neck, though, if you're constantly switching from your tiny drill bit to your big cutting wheel to your medium sized engraving bit, because you have to figure out which is the right sized collet and then install it onto your rotary tool.  The easiest way around this is to buy the Keyless Chuck, which can hold any and all sized shafts, and allows you to swap bits in seconds.  For $10 or so, in my opinion it's a great time saver.

Lastly, I would get from Dremel their D-Vise #2214.  The D-Vise, is as it sounds, a vise, and it retails for about $20.  It has some nice features to it, such as the ability to rotate and swivel to a wide range of positions (and yet still lock firmly in place).  It is also mountable on your hobby desk - of course, you'll have to drill holes in the desk, but then you have this nice rotary tool, which can use drill bits...  My favorite feature is the rubber padding on the jaws.  I have found that they give you a very secure grip on your miniature, and yet the rubber prevents the vise from crushing or otherwise harming your Terminator Captain.  But aside from these features, I recommend having a vise of some kind, for two reasons.  First off is safety.  It should be obvious to you that if the cutting disks can chop the arm off of that Bloodthirster model, they are also quite capable of doing nasty things to the fingers you're using to hold the Bloodthirster's arm.  A vise is really a good idea for keeping your fingers intact.  If you miss with the cutting disk (or drill bit, or whatever), you're likely to hit open air, or at worst the vise itself, instead of putting that drill bit through all the way through your palm or having the cutting disk go all the way to the bone before you can turn it off.  On a related note, when you're cutting or drilling into a miniature, it is possible for the heat generated to be so great that the metal near the drill bit or cutting wheel to melt.  You'll quickly notice that that's also hot enough to burn your fingers if you happen to be holding onto the metal part.

The second reason for a vise is similar to the first. If you try and do any fine detail work with your rotary tool, you may soon realize that it's difficult (if not impossible) to hold that Space Marine steady while you try and remove his chest eagle. And it's really annoying to accidentally take his face off instead...  With a vise you can be assured that the miniature itself isn't going to be going anywhere, and all you have to concentrate on is the rotary tool itself.

Q:        So now what do I do with this thing?

A:         So now you've got yourself a rotary tool, and you're eager to go using it. Basically, what you can do with it is decided by what bits you use in it.

Detail removal - Let's say you bought a nice new Inquisitor Artemis figure, and you're keen to convert that wussy Deathwatch Marine into a glorious Champion of Chaos.  Well, it just won't do to leave that Imperial Eagle on the chestplate - after all, he hardly could be said to be a loyal subject of the Emperor!  You could take out your file and/or hobby knife and cut and file the Eagle away, but your rotary tool is a much better tool for the job, able to achieve the same results in seconds as opposed to hours.  I recommend the Engraving Bits, sizes 100, 105, 106, and 107.  These all are essentially a spherical cutting bit on a long shaft.  If you touch them to the metal detail you want to remove, they're able to quickly eat it away.  Of course, the smaller the bit, the slower it will go, but that can be a good thing as it gives you more control over the process.  Note that you can also use these bits for things like removing the head from a Chaplain so you can replace it with a nice unhelmeted head (or whatever).  You should note, though, that the original head won't be saved - it's going to end up as a billion little metal shavings.

Pinning - Instead of using a Pin Vise to drill holes for pinning, many people use their Dremel instead. Myself, I rarely find that my Pin Vise is unable to do the job, but if you really must save 30 seconds, your rotary tool is quite able to drill holes in your miniatures.  With the Keyless Chuck mentioned above, almost any size drill bit could be used.  Dremel sells a variety of sizes, but I believe any drill bit you come across should be adequate for the task.

Cutting - Many people also use their rotary tool for cutting the arm off a Bloodthirster, chopping a scout's legs off so they can be repositioned, or whatever.  For this, you can use Dremel's Reinforced Cut-Off Wheels,#426.  Myself, I normally use a Jeweler's Saw for these types of conversion, so I can't really offer much advice, except to say that I know other people swear by their Cut-Off Wheels. Remember to always be safe while using them, though - that includes wearing safety goggles and holding the miniature in a vise instead of with your fingers.

Removing Flash/Mould Lines - Again, I haven't done this myself, but I have heard of rotary tool being used for this.  Basically, I believe they use Dremel's Stainless Steel Brushes, #530, 531, and 532. If you run these brushes over small mould lines, I believe they should easily remove them, without that pesky filing or scraping with a modeling knife.

Other uses - Dremel makes at least a hundred other bits for use in their tool, from routers to bathroom tile cutters to polishing disks. Who knows, you may figure out a way to use them in your converting work. Or even just use them around the house. In any case, you can visit http://www.dremel.com for lots of other uses for your rotary tool, and for other accessories than are mentioned here.

Q:            Anything else?

A:         One last note - when you buy your rotary tool, it's going to come with an instruction book.  I highly recommend reading through it - not only will it tell you how to get the most out of your rotary tool, but it will give you all the information you need to operate it safely.  Please folks, let's keep the hospital visits to a minimum.

by Scarab

What is casting?
Is casting illegal?
How do I cast?
 

Q:        What is casting?

A:         Casting refers to several techniques for making copies of three dimensional objects.

Q:        Is casting illegal?

A:         Casting something made by someone else can be a copyright infringement.  The most flagrant example would be to buy a model and make copies.   To be on the safe side, it is best to stick to casting things you make yourself and are wholly your own creation.  If you are unsure, ask an Intellectual Property Attorney, as the issues can be quite complex.

Q:        How do I cast?

A:         We may expand upon this in later versions of the FAQ, but for now, you can learn more at http://www.hirstarts.com.  Basic casting supplies, including an excellent starter kit, and information can be found at http://smoothon.com.

by Scarab

What should I look for in a camera?
What conditions should I use to get good photos?
How do I post my figures?
 

A:         I am going to stick to digital cameras here.  Conventional camera setups for taking good photos of models are very costly and best left to professional photographers.  The two most important features in a digital camera for taking pictures of miniatures are resolution and minimum focus distance.  Higher resolution allows you to take a photo from further away, to crop out the excess material, and to still have a detailed photo.  I personally recommend a camera of at least 2 megapixel resolution.

            Minimum focus distance controls how close to a model you can get and still get a good photo.  Cameras with macro mode generally have much shorter minimum focus distances and are preferred.

[Ed. Note: I believe that a macro mode is the single most important feature you should look for if you intend to photograph miniatures.  Try to find cameras with macro modes that support minimum focal distances of 2-5 inches.  The shorter the distance the better.]

A:         Strong, diffuse light.  Natural light is best, but direct sunlight will create too stark a contrast, so a thin blind or other barrier that will diffuse the light is recommended.  Inside, I use several strong conventional bulbs with white paper between them and the model to diffuse the light.

A:         In the Dakka forums, you simply put in your post the following codes with the url (web address) of the image:

            [image]url of image[/image]

Of course, for this to work, you'll have to have your picture hosted someplace...

A:         Many folks have access to web space as a part of their internet subscription that may allow them to store photos.  Companies also offer to host images for free, but may not allow you to link to them ? meaning that they may not show up on Dakka.  The large number of viewers on Dakka can quickly saturate bandwidth quotas imposed by some hosting services.  Pbase.com is an often used image hosting site but is subject to bandwith restrictions. 

by Scarab

A:             Assuming the model was painted with standard acrylic modeling paint, the paint can be removed with various chemicals.  I have seen brake fluid and a product called Simplegreen endorsed for this purpose, but do not have personal experience with these materials.  I personally use Castrol Superclean, which can be found in the automotive section of department stores. If you use this cleaner, simply soak the models overnight in a glass container. Rinse the models thoroughly in water and then take off the paint with an old toothbrush. Remember than any of these materials that are able to strip paint can also damage you. Read the manufacturers? warnings and take appropriate precautions.  Obviously, this is not an appropriate activity for children.  Also remember to dispose of your stripping materials responsibly ? some materials may need to be taken to a friendly mechanic or other person with access to proper disposal equipment.

A:         Games Workshop miniatures are generally accepted to be 28mm. Over the years, however, they have grown somewhat, so they're only nominally this scale. In any case, they are rarely true 28mm because they are sculpted in a style that can only be described as 'chunky', with oversized hands, heads, weapons and other details. This style, which began with Jes Goodwin, is intended to make them more dramatic as models, and easier to paint.

Games Workshop vehicles are slightly undersized when compared to the miniatures, and also tend to be somewhat 'chunky' (the guns and hatches are usually too big). The closest 'official' scale is <st1:time Minute="48" Hour="13">1:48</st1:time>, however you'll find they're more compatible with the larger <st1:time Minute="35" Hour="13">1:35</st1:time> scale models. This is actually a good thing, because there is a vast range of <st1:time Minute="35" Hour="13">1:35</st1:time> scale military models, which are relatively cheap and are an endless source of spare parts and even substitute models.