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Made in ca
Water-Caste Negotiator





BC, Canada

Got some Imperial Pallace basing and this is my first attempt at painting marble.

Tips/Tricks/Feedback always accepted!

Thanks as always for taking a look and have a good day.



This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/08/15 15:46:06


 
   
Made in ca
Fireknife Shas'el






It looks nice, though the veins in marble look less like the veins found in flesh. Break them up a bit, make a few in parallel, have some very short or very wide areas of vein rather than making it look like a network of corpuscles.

   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






Not bad did you do the pooling technique?

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in ca
Water-Caste Negotiator





BC, Canada

Thank you both for reaponses.

I have a bunch of these to get done so will practice that John!

Not sure what the pooling technique is. I can explain though the method.

Basecoat white.
Bone color paint
Agrax earthshade the recesses
Mournfang brown thick line.
Wet brush base bone color
Thin black lines
Wetbrush base bone color
Thin white lines
Wetbrush base bone color
Glaze of seraphim sepia
Satin varnish

Pooling method sounds promising. Ill google it!

 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Not bad

the only real thing is that the black marbling is a bit too consistent.

Thinner, thicker, opaque and translucent. depending on how thick and deep the vanes go.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in ca
Water-Caste Negotiator





BC, Canada

Thanks DESU. Ill paint another and post it up.

 
   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






So the pooling technique is where you would take your say bone color, water it down to like 7:1 or more and then pool it over areas you want that color and let it dry.b it creates a very nateual looking effect here check mine out, it's green but same concept



Automatically Appended Next Post:


If you would like I could explain how I did this and you might be able to adapt the colors for white marble

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/08/16 15:03:09


To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in us
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran






 Backspacehacker wrote:
So the pooling technique is where you would take your say bone color, water it down to like 7:1 or more and then pool it over areas you want that color and let it dry.b it creates a very nateual looking effect here check mine out, it's green but same concept



Automatically Appended Next Post:


If you would like I could explain how I did this and you might be able to adapt the colors for white marble


That green is sick! Can you please tell me what steps you used for it?!


To the OP. I think its nice. I agree the lines are too dark maybe. Good first attempt!

~Ice~
Da' Burnin Couch 2018 Best Overall
Beef and Wing ITC Major GT Best Overall 2018
2019 ITC #1 Overall Best Admech
LVO 2019 #1 Admech 
   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






Sure so it's actually really easy to do you will need the following
Base color (caliban green)
Layer color (warpstone green (get)/green grass (reaper))
Highlight color(moot green (get)/pale green(reaper))
Accent color (any terquise)
Wash or shade (bile tan)
Vein color(palyid witchflesh(get) /Misty gray(reaper)
Sponge

So first step base in your base color. Then pick a general direction for the striations ie virtical or horizontal, or what ever direction as long as it's consistant.

Next take your layer color and water it down ALOT you want it almost to a glaze. Load your brush and pool it on the surface in the model, and try to create a general direction of the pool. Notice on mine how the warpstone green seems directed up and to the right? That's what I mean by a gernal direction. Now let those pools dry, you can even come back halfway through the drying process and soak up some of the paint to make a coffee stain effect which is very nice. Repeat this step once more.

Next take your vein color and paint a thing line keeping close to the transition of your base and layer color, almost acting as the divider for them. If you can think of marble like a topographic map where the white is your highest point. Again keep the white lines in the same directjon and don't be afraid to branch off. Make splits and random lines that start and end with out intersections.

Once this is done take a sponge and dab it into your layer color and stipple across the marble. This will break up the monotony of the two colors and give a more organic feel.

Next load up with your highlight color on the sponge and stipple again, this time only do about 1/3 of the amount of stipling you did before.

Next add a few sponge stipples of your accent color, again be very light with this one, it's meant to offset and complement no over power.

Once that's done get your wash/glaze, I'd you have an airbrush wash over the entire piece to lend it all and darken it down, if you don't have an airbrush apply one layer of the wash/glaze, let it completely dry, and apply a second layer. And airbrush only needs a single layer.

Once dry go back in with your vein color and paint over the now green tinted veins at intersections and where ever you feel it is needed and BAM! MARBLE this seems to work great for darken marble, if you want the primary base to be your lightest color just flip the entire color pallet base white and veins of green hope it helps sorry posting on a phone hah

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in ca
Water-Caste Negotiator





BC, Canada

Wow. That green. Thanks for the very well explained explanation!

Will practice this.

 
   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






Not a problem some other helpful advice, study pictures of marble. It's best to practice on an unused flyer base for like bikes and it speeders it's a nice smooth serface

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
 
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