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A couple questions about some paints I've tried recently... I picked up a bottle of Army Painter werewolf fur to give me a lighter brown, but even straight from the bottle it seems to act almost like a wash. I'm painting over light grey primer, and it doesn't seem to cover very well, with the color seeming to pool in the recesses. Is this just a case of "needs more coats"? Are all army-painter paints this thin?

Also with Citadel's blood-for-the-blood-god, I'm using it for mouths and eyes on my greenskins. Works great for the mouths, but when I try to tab a bit on the little eye-bulges it instead runs around and pools around the eyeball. I ended up using some artist acrylic red, straight from the tube, but that seems like a less than ideal approach. I like the color and glossiness of the blood-god.

Finally, I've been doing the "green wash" (I forget what it's called) method for ork skins with citadel's green wash paint. I'm happy with the effect I get sometimes, but on several of my gretchin the darker colored recesses are almost glossy. Is this normal? I've got some AP matte varnish I can spray through the airbrush, though I rather like the gloss effect of the blood god in their mouth (may need to save eyes/mouths for last and just insert a matte varnish step?)

thanks!

P.S. I shake the bottles, but don't have mixing beads in them yet... I picked up some stainless nuts for that purpose but I'm not sure how to remove the dropper spout from Vallejo or AP paints.

AP tends to run thin, but runnyness is probably "still not enough shaking." You're getting just the acrylic binder and water base, with very little pigment. Blood for the Blood god I'm less familair with, but could you try gloss varnish painted over or gloss medium mixed with the artists red? The green wash, IIRC, yes its normal, its more a thinned ink, which often run glossy especially in thicker coats.
Not sure AP, but vallejo paints have the seam just below the flange of bottom of the spout. Its just a press fit, if a bit of a stout one.