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Made in gb
Dakka Veteran






United Kingdom

Hi Dakka,

I've been meaning to document my work (both personal and 'professional' - if clients let me) on here for sometime, sharing any recipes and knowledge (such as it is) along the way.

Recipe Guide
Spoiler:

GW = Citadel Paint
VMC = Vallejo Model Color
VGC = Vallejo Game Color
VmeC = Vallejo Metal Color
AP = Army Painter
DSMM = Dark Star Molten Metals
S75 = Scale 75
S75FG = Scale 75 Fantasy and Games

Colours will be given in sequence - so the first is a Base Coat, the second a Shade, the third a Highlight - more complicated paint jobs will be written differently.


To start with I have a roughly 1k point basic Death Guard Army in progress for my store - I didn't intend to get an army but it just panned out that way when my brother gave me his Death Guard stuff.

The Army consists of: Lord Felthius and his Tainted Cohort, a Noxious Blightbringer, a Malignant Plaguecaster, 7 Plague Marines w/3xPlasma, 30 Poxwalkers and 2 Bloat-drones.

I decided to go for a more basic level (with the odd bit of flare) and wanted to try and inject a bit of colour into them, using complimenting red tones as well as pink, bright green and light yellow! Please let me know if you think it works or not - I quite like it but I would say that!

Lord Felthius




The Tainted Cohort


Poxwalkers (I couldn't get a decent picture of all 30 of them) - Recipe in Spoiler

Spoiler:

Poxwalker Recipe:
Undercoat White
Flesh - VGC Dead Flesh & AP Red Ink (VMC Glaze Medium)
Steel - VmeC Magnesium - GW Agrax Earthshade x 2
Leather - VMC Chocolate Brown - GW Agrax Earthshade
Red - GW Mephiston Red - GW Agrax Earthshade
Tentacles - S75FG Orcish Dermis & GW Screamer Pink - GW Druchi Violet
Boils - S75FG Lilith Yellow
Bone - GW Zandri Dust - GW Agrax Earthshade
Blood - S75FG Mayhem Red
Eyes - VMC Luftwaffe Green & S75FG Toxic Green

Once all the above were applied as a base coat I shaded the skin with a mix of AP Red Ink with VMC Glaze Medium and Water (about a 7:1:3 ratio) and applied it liberally, watching out for excessive pooling. Once fully dry I repeated this in the recesses and around the boils. The glaze medium in important as it allows the dead flesh to show through without toning it red too much - a really useful way to save time if you don't want to highlight the area with the base coat again!

The rest of the model was a simple base coat and shade process. I shaded the metal areas twice and I added another shade of Agrax to the bone, starting from about halfway and pushing the shade down toward the recesses to get a deeper look to it. If I felt it needed it I re-applied the yellow onto the biggest boils to help them stand out more.

When base coating the tentacles I did some basic feathering of the base colour into the dead flesh to ease the transition - just mix the base colour with water into a wash and with a little on the brush work away from the main colour, you can avoid ugly lines by quickly washing the brush, wiping off the excess water so the brush is damp and further feathering out the wash. Any ugly dry lines can usually be worked away with a damp brush or else covered with the main base colour - in this case dead flesh.


The army painted so far (minus Felthius)


I'm about 50% done with the remaining Plague Marines and Drones and my hope is to have the army finished by the end of the week. I'll share my recipe for the Plague Marines then...I need to go and cook dinner if I can get my dog off me

Thanks for looking

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/04/23 13:23:35


   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran






United Kingdom

As the Death Guard are ongoing (I stopped to finish off the Custodes and to practice with my new paints) I decided to take the time at the weekend and this morning to try and learn new things.

I've purchased both Angel Giraldez's painting guides and thought I'd give the Ltd Edition Crane Rank a go, substituting the NMM with TMM.








My take home from this mini is to not be afraid of creating high contrasts and to maybe try even thinner glazes and build them up to get a smoother, richer tone. If you're interested I can't recommend Angel's books enough, even if you don't play or paint Infinity. They take a lot of mystery away from his process and many techniques can easily be applied to virtually any model.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/04/23 13:25:07


   
 
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