Switch Theme:

Epic Scale - Can I salvage this shoddy wash-job?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Xeno-Hating Inquisitorial Excruciator




London

Very noob question, for which I apologise.
Getting back into painting after over a decade and I think I've lost any touch I might have had...

6 mm Vanguard Mauler.
Primed/Base-coated with 2x coats of Army Painter "Skeleton Bone" colour primer.
Left to dry overnight.
Washed "liberally" with Agrax Earthshade. To the point that the entire base colour is now much darker and there are distinct "blotches" where it's darker still.
It's pulled out the recess detail OK, but how would I now proceed to get the non-recessed bits back to the desired colour? Dry-brushing pretty much the whole thing with Skeleton Bone? And then edges/highlights subsequently with a lighter tone?

Or should I just strip it all off, re-prime and pin-wash the recessed bits, wiping away any excess?

I used to do 1/72 military kits, and would AB a thin gloss coat before washing, then do highlighting/dry-brushing before a final matt coat.
But I no longer have an AB and don't have any spray varnishes to hand...


   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





Sure, just dry brush it decently with the base colour, should be fine.
   
Made in gb
Xeno-Hating Inquisitorial Excruciator




London

Thank you, Elbows! That was probably the external "nudge" I needed to just carry on



Just in case you're still around ... ,-) (or anyone else for that matter!)

I've since applied a thin dry-brush (base colour 50:50 with water).
I then painted the tracks with a mix of 4x AP Fur Brown / 1x Agrax / 5x Water ... next step is to wash the tracks with Agrax (unthinned ...?) Then highlight with ... something metallic? Maybe thinned Leadbelcher?

Gotta say, not impressed with Army Painter's "guarantee" that their colour primers are 100% matches for their bottles ... In the case of Skeleton Bone, not by a mile ... Still ... ways & means
   
Made in us
Boosting Ultramarine Biker




Illinois, USA

Washing takes a bit of care, for sure. Be on the lookout for pooling as you wash, and wick up the excess with your brush right away. If it sits too long, it will start to dry around the edges, and will leave a dark ring when you wick it up. I almost always reapply the base color after. I either dry brush or layer, depending. On large, flat surfaces, I prefer to layer.
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





I also have success on occasion using a q-tip with some mineral spirits to wipe away excess wash, even oily dip, etc. I don't know how it would work on other paints/models though. Love the tanks.
   
Made in gb
Xeno-Hating Inquisitorial Excruciator




London

Thanks very much guys!

I've never applied a wash directly onto a matt painted surface before, and probably won't again. It seems to "stain" the paint and is way less controllable than applying it onto a gloss coat. Off to find something like Future or Klear this PM. And I'll need to order something like Testors Dullcote ...

And really ... not having an airbrush sucks donkey testicles ...
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: