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Made in ca
Newbie Black Templar Neophyte





Canada

Sometimes my paint form some kind of texture on the surface of my models not unlike an accumulation of dry particles... however i keep my paints very wet and thinned and i use a wet palette and clean brushes. And for the life of me i cant figure out how its doing it or if i can fix it without stripping.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




Central California

Okay, this may seem a weird answer, but...
Are you sure the "texture" is not on there but hard to see from the primer? Spray primers when held too far from a miniature or when it is very hot can dry partially before striking the miniature's surface, thus leaving a rough, almost sandpaper finish much like you have described. Small particles trapped within the spray. This can also happen from a bad can of primer (or one that is old and sat on the shelf too long) I sometimes deal with this as I live in a very hot dry place. Because the primer is all one color, and the depth of the particles is so slight as to not cause shadows, it can be very hard to see before you place paint on top. However thin paint and such will show it up even more than unthinned paint.
Hopefully others will have more insights, as I have never dealt with a paint leaving such texture, unless the paint itself has somehow gone bad.
If this is the problem, the only real solution is to strip and re primer the models (I use a bath of simple green and a toothbrush). When you respray just check temperature (over 90 has caused me problems) and how far you hold the can.
No solution I know, but a cause perhaps you can avoid in the future.

Keeping the hobby side alive!

I never forget the Dakka unit scale is binary: Units are either OP or Garbage. 
   
Made in ca
Newbie Black Templar Neophyte





Canada

Okay so i've rechecked the problematic model and luckily some parts still only has primer on them, but i can't seem to find any sand paper primer on those.. but im not sure, there might be some kind of texture? But its minuscule, im not even sure its there, and doesn't seem like it would cause any kind of problems once based and layered... but then again you mentionned its very hard to see..so idk, and also the problem i have seem to only appear on certain areas. However you also mentionned paints that have gone bad? Now i will sound stupid but i didnt know acrylics could go bad, i thought that if i could just moisture them again if they ever felt dry it would be okay. But some of my paints are old as f like more than a decade old. So i guess i'd have to buy new ones...i'd rather not tho but if i have no choice i'll make do. Also how do you know if a paint has gone bad? Other than its attitude

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2018/08/27 00:02:26


 
   
Made in be
Beast of Nurgle




Belgium

My first response would be dust particles in the paint. I've had before when using brushes that haven't been used for a long time.

Another thing you could to is try thinning your paint a bit with some water, but that would create a different colour.

Outsmart what you can't beat, and beat what you can't outsmart. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




Central California

When paints go bad what happens generally is they separate into their components: Binder, pigment, etc etc. That separation can happen with old paints. Usually it is obvious and the paint in the container appears as a hardened glob with a watery/milky/oily liquid sloshing about. Sometimes you can save it by simply remixing it together. I have succeeded with this about 50% of the time, of course depending on how far gone. The problem is you can rarely get the same consistency the manufacturer has intended.
I have also had to give up and buy new paints. Ten years old seems very very old to me for paints, even if sealed well.

As to the primer issue, I think you would have noticed with the scrutiny you gave. often the problem looks like powder dusted on the miniature.
After your later post I suspect it is your paints that have separated. This can cause them to turn grainy, and pigment is often ground minerals in a solution. If this is the case, thinning with water actually makes it worse, as the pigment has hardened and is no longer returning to a smooth solution and therefore not mixing with the water and therefore separating further on the surface.
Sadly, I do think it might be time for new paints.

Wish I had a better idea/solution. There are a lot of far more experienced painters about.

Keeping the hobby side alive!

I never forget the Dakka unit scale is binary: Units are either OP or Garbage. 
   
Made in ca
Newbie Black Templar Neophyte





Canada

Thank you edwardmyst your comments have been very insightful. I've always wanted to try vallejo paints anyway, ill use this as an excuse to treat myself.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/08/27 05:05:52


 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User





Your problem has probably already been solved by one of the answers above but another thing to ensure is that you keep separate water for metallic and non metallic paints. Metallic paints contain small flakes and this could cause the sort of contaminant problems that you are dealing with.
   
Made in gb
Been Around the Block







As a little tip I use re' basecoating; try a hairdryer! Speeds up the whole process and leaves the paint silky smooth when dry.

Just make sure you "sweep" the dryer over the model repeatedly when drying, to avoid overheating and the risk of bubbling. And stand the model in a shoe box lid or similar so it doesn't blow away!

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2018/08/27 17:11:07


Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity 
   
 
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