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With my last few batches of models that I primed with GW Primer I have had this issue where the primer is "Bubbling" or creating bumps on the surface. This does not happen on all of the models in a batch however. Some get a smooth finish and some get this "bumpy" surface on the same batch. Some models will also have this on one part and not on another part. So for instance one leg may have this, but the other may not, and this is all on the same side of the model. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening?

As a contrast, I have use Army Painter, P3 back when they were still selling primer, Coat 'd Arms from over 30 years ago, and I have never seen this. For some models, this may not be a problem, but for others it is. I can use GW primer on something like Orks, but I don't want that kind of affect for Space Marines for instance.

Also as a side note, does anyone know what can strip Army Painter primer? I have used Simple Green, Nail Polish,(Non Acetone) and Alcohol and nothing will strip it. Do I need go the full Monty and use break fluid?

Clean the surface. That's probably where there's oil from your skin.

Most of these are repaints so they go through plenty cleaning prior to priming. But I will keep that in mind.

I stripped some Marines and got some pictures to show what the problem is. What I am seeing once stripped it looks like the primer "melted" the models in certain places. It creates a rough bumpy texture at certain areas, but not all of the model. None of these marines had this before I primed them. Here is a marine with a marred shoulder guard and that same marine next to one that is not marred:

I have heard that rattle can primers can cause plastic to melt, if it's applied too aggressively. I think it's something to do with the propellant. Your issue might be that you are applying the primer too heavily.

I'm not sure why you have experienced this with GW specifically - it could be that their formulation is a bit more prone to this than others, and you have got away with an over-heavy primer coat with other brands.

I might be totally wrong on how you are applying your primer, but in generally it is good to bear in mind that primer definitely doesn't need to be a heavy coat. It doesn't even have to be fully opaque for it to do its job; having a black primed model still look slightly grey in areas is completely fine, even preferable. Primer only has to be a very fine layer; it's there to allow the subsequent basecoats to stick better to the mini, not to be the basecoat.

I do try to avoid applying too much primer, but they are fully primed. I have not changed my painting techniques in the past decade or so. I don't think that it is what you are thinking, because I will do a batch and a few models will look like above, and then a few will be half and half, and then I will get one or two with almost none of this on it.

I never had this until this summer and I think that I know why. Latest diagnosis that I got from another board was that it was paint particles that dried before it landed on my model. It was during the summer when I painted these up, and yes I live in an area where the days during the summer get north of 90 degrees Fahrenheit. I guess that it got too hot for me to paint.

When I file this shoulder guard down, it does look like the one on the right, so I think that this was the problem. I am going to try to figure out a way to remove all of this on these models by using some chemical paint stripping to get all of this removed.

The paint particles drying before impact checks out.

I live in Arizona and have seen this exact thing happen, and while I’ve never put 2 and 2 together it’s consistently paired with high temperatures and sunlight (I don’t have a place to prime in doors). So while I can’t speak for certain, that explanation definitely checks out with my lived experience.

Likewise I’ve found that the issue doesn’t persist with other brands, specifically Army Painter which I’ve turned to for all of my primer (and most of my paint) needs.

My only problem with Army Painter is that that you can't strip off the primer if you need to start over, at least I have not found a suitable paint stripper to reliably do that. I am trying a few new paint strippers on that and it may work on the ones that primed with Army Painter. That and the glassy finish is a little "weird," but that is an annoyance. Having said that, I am switching back to AP, cheaper and not these kind of problems. Have you figured out a solvent or technique to strip the paint particles without marring the model? I am trying to figure that now obviously.

On a more personal note: Cool name and I was born in Mesa. Family is still in the old part of Scotsdale, among other locals around town. I know the place better than others, but if I were your, I would be priming at night time if I could get away with it. Normally when I have to leave a batch to dry out in the elements or in a garage, I would cover it with a Rubber maid container so that nothing messes with it.