Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hey all,

Been having some issues with Warmaster (actually, half scale WHFB) models.

They're on a base that's designed to be printed flat on the build plate as far as I can see, but my printer seems to print the bases very inconsistent thicknesses. I've drawn them up at 0.8mm, but one print (Skeletons) they all came out at 1mm thick, and then a few prints later I did a plate of Skinks with the exact same STLs used for the bases and they came out 0.5mm thick. The Skeleton ones are kind of okay, that just sit 0.2mm higher out of the stands than they should, but the Skinks are basically a fail print because the base is so thin that they're curling up.

Any idea what might be causing it? I was thinking temperature differences from one day to the next (but I don't know what the temperature was on those days, as I forgot what day I printed the Skellies).

How do people handle models like this, perhaps instead of printing flat on the bed I should elevate them and support them? But I don't want to angle them, as they're Forest Dragon minis that are designed to be printed upright, if I angle them then they're going to need a ton of supports.

As a reward for reading my post, check out some half scale Warhammer models!

I usually print them with the fdm printer, and it's completely consistent ^^

When printing resin bases, you either have to angle and support them as with anything else, or you have to dial in very accurately your printer AND you have to compensate for the elephant foot of the first layers (both Chitubox and Lychee allow for that nowadays).

I printed the Saurus and Kroxigor bases with an FDM printer and glued the individual models down to it, but models like the Skinks and Skeletons are very spindly and fragile with small attachment points, so was hoping to print the base integral with them.

Had a go at elevating the models 3mm but not angling them. It worked... mostly. A couple of corners failed (so not a catastropic fail, just some of the corners are a bit thinner than they should be). I had the bases taper originally because they were going to be flat on the build plate and figured the taper would make it easier to lift them off the build plate, but since they're elevated now I should probably get rid of that and it'll let the supports go all the way to the corners.

But they're pretty much bang on the STL design of being 0.8mm (well. 0.75 to 0.85mm).

Also they're still a touch thin, drawn them at 0.8mm, the skeletons came out good because they actually printed at 1 to 1.1mm in spite of being drawn at 0.8mm, now that they're printing accurately they need to be bumped up to 1.1mm permanently I guess.

One annoying thing, resin gets trapped between the supports. I did a 4 bucket wash plus a few minutes in the spinny Anycubic wash station, and there was still resin caught between the bases and the raft.

The Skinks are super annoying though, way too spindly for my liking, the ankles, wrists, blowpipes and tails are so delicate with a handful of failures at those locations across the batch (well, no angles and wrists failed during the print, but I snapped a few off when handling to clean them and remove supports, a couple of blowpipes and tails failed in the print itself).