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Ok, I admit it; I am just plain not good at free-handing designs on models and I am too lazy to get good at it.  So, I've decided to use some of the decals that come with the CSM boxes to add a little bit of detail to my models.  Unfortunately, I know that decals tend to have a glossy finish after they have been applied, and this tends to stand out from the mat finish given by most acrylic paints.

What can I do to limit, if not remove entirely, the glossy finish of the decals after they have been applied?

Thanks.

Sal.

Hi Sal

The best method is to paint over the transfer once dry with citadel paint, then gloss it with matt varnish so it doesn't come off.

However this can be tricky, since your need strong brush skills to trace the transfer.

Another option is to just try matt varnishing it, but to be honest if you aren't confident enough to paint over the design then I would just recommend leaving it as it is and matt varnishing. It will be a little shiny, but its a trade off, and dont forget that on tanks especially this looks okay as its supposed to be machine painted onto a hull.

Here's one then, I have never ever ever had any success getting the transfers on in the first place, I've followed the instructions I've looked at people's online instruction manuals for it and so far it is transfers 100 - Adam 0 has anyone who has had success with this got any suggestions for the transfer inept?

Hi Adam

What exactly is it that you find hardest and I'll see if I can offer some help on the main points you have problems with.

OK, a couple of things that will help that I've picked up over the years.

First, get some decal set. You should be able to go to a good model store and pick it up. I use testors stuff and use thier cheap white handle brushes so it doesn't screw up my paint brushes.

Second, apply the decal over a gloss coat. The matt finish on most acrylic paints will make the clear edges stand out more. Once you have the decal positioned, then paint over it with the set. This stuff will make the decal cling to the surface and follow curves.

Once everything is dry, then hit the model with whatever your final finishing product is.

One other thing you can do is if there is a good model store in your area, go talk to them and see how they do them. Specialty stores like these are great as this hobby uses so much from multiple hobbies.

For decals you need to paint the surface then go over it with a gloss overcoat.  Put the decal on with some decal set to help it adhere to the model after drying for 24 to 48 hours go over it with a dull coat.  This kills the clear edge you see on decals when you dull coat them.

Here are a few quick notes:

As everyone has been saying, apply a gloss coat first. I use future floor finish strait out of the bottle, then after I have applied the decal, I go over it with another coat of FFF. Then after you dull coat it. It will not look like a decal, it does not have any lines, and it looks like it was painted on.

If you have trouble getting the transfer/decal where you want it, but a lot of water on the surface you are putting the transfer on. You want the decal to "swim" on the model for easy placement. Use a paintbrush to get the decal where you want it, then apply a piece of paper towel to wick away all of the water.

And now kids? Usiel?s bodge arsed guide to decals!!! YAY!

I: Carefully cut out the transfer (cut into the excess edge of the transfer too, be darn careful as you can rip the decal).

II: Place on a non-absorbent surface (I use a small bathroom floor tile) then dip your finger in some water and let the droplet touch the decal. Wait?

III: Wipe at the decal with a wet paintbrush until it starts to move, then slip it under the decal and pick it up (be careful as the decal can wrap around the brush, if this happens don?t panic put the decal back in its puddle and carefully straighten it) slide it onto the model and very lightly (like prodding your own exposed nerve ends gentle) dab it with a piece of toilet paper. It doesn?t have to be completely dry for the next stage.

IV: Now paint Tamiya Color: clear X-22 Acrylic (I never bothered thinning it) straight on nice and thick. Cover the whole transfer and past its edges. Let it sit in a dust free spot all night.

V: Repaint the original paint scheme around the decal it should blend in nicely.

Note: - The symbol will be glossy, but it will sit flat even on Marine pads. I have only covered up with dark citadel paints. (As I used this technique on my Dark Angels)

Also Note: I am now over this technique and moving on to things like Microsol for a more realistic finish. But this tech is good for fast and non-fussy.