Switch Theme:

making blood red better  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Shas'la with Pulse Carbine





Norfolk, Va

i'm working on a BA army and am having trouble drybrushing with blood red, it seems to thin and i get uneven coverage over the model. I'm painting over a base coat of mechite red with a wash of devlan mud. is there a way to thicken the blood red, or a company that makes a comparable color that's better?
   
Made in hk
Fresh-Faced New User





Hong Kong

vallejo, I think is better. Blood red is not a good colour to use for drybrushing. Seems too dark a colour to drybrush with, unless you're trying to save time and just bang them out. Why not invest a little more time and paint blood red instead, over a non-black background. Use one of the foundation paints for the first layer of colour. YOu don't have to use red, you could use a brown for a more complex final red colour, or even use the orange or iyanden yellow colour to add a brighter shade to the red. Then I'd wash with one of the new GW washes, which are excellent: again you could do a mix of brown or red or black, or any of the three. Then you could drybrush blood red, but far better to paint blood red, then black line the vents and joins, and then add thin orange highlights to exposed surfaces.

I have some grenadiers over in the P&M Blogs who have a red armour, which I painted red, added a red wash, and then highlighted with blood red, orange and then 50/50 orange and white. Looks great.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/07/24 07:40:17


Figures: www.fragilearmytransportbag.justinhillauthor.com
Books: www.justinhillauthor.com
 
   
Made in au
Hard-Wired Sentinel Pilot






Sydney

For the fairly dodgy Citadel option, you could always use the paint that has dried in the top of the paint tin. This doesnt work too well for drybrushing however, so to ensure that it isnt to wet, use an absorbent material such as paper towels to take out most of the moisture.

Overall however, I second Justin's suggestion for Vallejo, as they have a ludicrous selection of colours. Some of their colours can't even be seen by the human eye, they're that hardcore.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/07/24 07:40:04


Armies Owned: Iron Warriors, Tau


Undead Titan Log
Malfred: Terminator Armor has always had room for extra boobage.
Drake_Marcus: It's true- that's why the Space Wolves love termie armour so much. The whole "bear" thing they've got going on is just a thinly veiled cover-up of their huge, hairy cleavage. 
   
Made in au
[DCM]
.. .-.. .-.. ..- -- .. -. .- - ..






Toowoomba, Australia

I've tried Vallejo's game version of Blood red and it just doesn't 'pop' as much as GW's and I went back to GW for red.

I think the problem it drybrushing with it, you can either try painting in layers or as has been suggested try one of the vallejo model colour reds.

2025: Games Played:5/Models Bought:149/Sold:163/Painted:97
2024: Games Played:6/Models Bought:393/Sold:519/Painted: 207
2023: Games Played:0/Models Bought:287/Sold:0/Painted: 203
2020-2022: Games Played:42/Models Bought:1271/Sold:631/Painted:442
2016-19: Games Played:369/Models Bought:772/Sold:378/ Painted:268
2012-15: Games Played:412/Models Bought: 1163/Sold:730/Painted:436 
   
Made in gb
Lead-Footed Trukkboy Driver




Brighton, Uk

Try overbrushing a couple of layers of it. Like drybrushing but don't remove all the paint from the brush.
The second coat should give the right affect but if it's really not working for you maybe try a different paint.

"Get on the Ready Line!"

Orkeosaurus wrote:Yeah, but when he get's out he'll still be in Russia, so joke's on him.

 
   
Made in us
Ruthless Rafkin






Glen Burnie, MD

Multiple thin layers. If you want to drybrush, paint metal marines.

Or sell your soul to find some blood angel red spray. Ah, those were the days...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/07/24 15:06:40




-Loki- wrote:
40k is about slamming two slegdehammers together and hoping the other breaks first. Malifaux is about fighting with scalpels trying to hit select areas and hoping you connect more. 
   
Made in us
The Last Chancer Who Survived





Norristown, PA

I've always had a problem with this color. I tried the Valejo version also and the only thing good about it is the dropper bottle. it's too "watery" for drybrushing.

The best way I've found to get red to show up good is to just use white primer or get a good coat of white first, then paint the red on over a white basecoat. Thin the red a little bit with some water to get it to cover in a more even tone, and then just paint a couple thin layers till you get the full color. I don't use any set mix, I just use a more wet brush, then dip it in the paint and dab it on the top flat part of the paint pot to mix the water and paint together (not the top of the lid, the flat part that goes around the inside).

So like for blood angels what I would do is spray with white primer, then paint on blood red, then use one of the washes like devlan mud for shading. If the wash darkens the flat parts too much, you can go back over it with thinned red again to build that spot up.

If you really really really want to drybrush with it, then what you can do is pour a couple drops out onto a pallette or something, and then let it sit for 10 minutes or so so it starts to dry.. then once more of the moisture is gone you should be able to drybrush with it a little better. But then you're only gonna have 5-10 minutes to paint before it all dies up

 
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

with red over machinarite red i do the following - machinarite red base coat. brown ink shading, machinarite red back over then a thin coat of blood red. you should need to dry brush at all.

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in us
Paramount Plague Censer Bearer




Atlanta

For my Word Bearers I use Red Gore, followed by no less than 3 coats of red wash. I suspect a lighter color of red (perhaps the foundation one) and then the new red wash from the new wash line (being that it's matte rather than gloss, good for WB bad for BA). I imagine that should give a nice strong red.

Penetrating so many secrets, we cease to believe in the unknowable. But there it sits nevertheless, calmly licking its chops.

* H. L. Mencken, in Minority Report (1956)

 
   
Made in us
Khorne Veteran Marine with Chain-Axe





San Diego.

I've done a couple methods for reds that pop.

For a bright red: Paint blood red, lightly dry brush with white, then use a couple layers of red wash over the dry brushing. ( the older red inks that were discontinued really worked well for this)

For a darker red with some depth just paint blood red, wash with flesh wash then highlight.


   
Made in us
Ruthless Rafkin






Glen Burnie, MD

This was done over walmart flat white spray as a primer. It's a thinned blood red, one basecoat only. In the first pic, the leftmost one is just Blood Red, the rightmost one has been washed with Gryphonne Sepia.

The Second shot is the entire squad with sepia.
[Thumb - ftassault003.jpg]
Color test - Blood Red over White (L) Washed with Gryphonne Sepia (r)

[Thumb - ftassault005.jpg]
Entire squad, Blood Red over white primer, washed with Gryphonne Sepia




-Loki- wrote:
40k is about slamming two slegdehammers together and hoping the other breaks first. Malifaux is about fighting with scalpels trying to hit select areas and hoping you connect more. 
   
Made in us
Widowmaker






Syracuse, NY

Over any color: Mechrite red foundation, Devlan brown wash, Red gore large highlights, blood red small highlights.

Works well for me.

   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: