Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Thanks for the pics GreyHamster. That was just what I was looking for. I went ahead and spliced the photos together in photoshop for easier comparison.

Either way, I honestly can't really see much of a difference in sharpness of detail between the two...

The finecast model has an unfortunate bubble on the model's nose - that's quite obvious when they're side by side.

Other than that, I think it is better than the metal (left side). The skull on the stormbolter and belt are clearer. It doesn't have nearly the pitting on the cape that the metal one does. Both have an unfortunate mold line on the back of the storm bolter's ammo box and on the back of the shoulder pad.

The finecast one has a little uncleaned flash behind the model's head too. The metal one has more uncleaned flash where the cape joins the body.

Clearly, both have some minor imperfections. I think the most glaring issue is the pitting on the metal cape, that's what I'd be most unhappy about if they were mine. Most of the flash and mold line issues could be cleaned up easily with a little work. I think the finecast nose could also be addressed easily enough that way.

Realistically, I wouldn't return either. It is nice to see the side by side though, thanks

Laughing Man wrote:

Spoiler:

You sure the metal one is the left hand side? The right one seems to have some metal showing through scratches in the primer... O.o

Either way, I honestly can't really see much of a difference in sharpness of detail between the two...

By first, I meant the one that got solo shots first. Sorry that wasn't clear, I honestly forgot which side was which on the side by side shot.

In general, I'm really bad at finding flash. Usually I have to prime metals in two waves, one super thin one so I can start finding it, then another one on top.

So the moral of the story is we can tell them apart by whats uniquely wrong with them not because one has more detail than the other.

Yes, it does seem like the difference is very very minor. Anybody tried converting these new models yet? How did the Resin act/hold together?

There is little difference to me...

Thanks for the photos. The metal one does have the most obvious problem on the cape but that's also extremely easy to fix. The FC version has multiple small problems that are touchy smallish fixes. Nose and hand bubbles.

Detail to me looks the same really, the bolter skull on the metal one just looks to have caught a bit to much primer.

What ever metal alloy GW uses has less than 2% shrinkage.


:edit posting before coffee

Yeah honestly, I have found parts on both models that I like and dislike. I am glad you made the pics GreyHamster.

Also keep this in mind people, some of the details and imperfections would probably be barely noticeable with the naked eye. These extreme close ups show little defects and additional detail. To get this close up with the naked eye, you would have to hold the model an inch away from your eye. I don't know about you, but if I hold a model that close, it becomes a blurry blob, that or stab me with a pointy sword...

I would LOOOOVE to see what one of the larger models looks like, as so far I'm not impressed with the finecast quality and if GW expects me to shell out $90 for Azhag, he better look like electric dynamite!

Lord Scythican wrote:

Also keep this in mind people, some of the details and imperfections would probably be barely noticeable with the naked eye. These extreme close ups show little defects and additional detail. To get this close up with the naked eye, you would have to hold the model an inch away from your eye. I don't know about you, but if I hold a model that close, it becomes a blurry blob, that or stab me with a pointy sword...

Yeah, at longer ranges, while they were both just primed, I had trouble telling them apart sitting on my desk. I kept picking up the wrong one until I started modifying/painting them differently. The resin is pretty soft and filing/cutting is very easy, it feels like I've had to be careful to avoid cutting too far more than anything else.

Kilkrazy wrote:Real wargamers replace spears and poles with steel wire.

I've been meaning to do that with my Bane Knights.

And I also cannot tell the difference between the two Sterns.

Kilkrazy wrote:

Laughing Man wrote:

Because metal is becoming cost prohibitively expensive to use. While yes, GW lumped a price inscrease on Finecast models, metal as a casting material is just too expensive these days.

Amusing, given the sheer amount of companies that are quite profitably producing large quantities of metal models...

At cheaper retail prices.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

If the resin doesn't need priming, well, I don't spend more than 20-30 minutes priming a batch of models, so it isn't much of a saving.

Resin doesn't need priming?

Allegedly. Apparently it has enough tooth to hold paint just fine by its own, but I personally don't really buy it. The flexibility is also a bit of a turn off for me. While acrylic paints might be flexible enough to handle being bent, the sealants I use most definitely aren't. :/

EDIT: Note that we're discussing the Finecast resin. Other resins (FW's, Alkemy, and Spartan's various fleet games) still very much need primer and don't even pretend otherwise.

In fact, expect for Finecost, resin needs primer the most out of any material generally used for minis.

Looks like the resin one is the one with the droopy iron cross for a belt-buckle.

Kilkrazy wrote:
I don't believe in not washing models I've had my dirty hands all over. I just put my stuff through the dishwasher in batches. I can do it when the washer is nearly full of plates, so it isn't even an extra run.

Have you tried this with a Finecast model yet? Most dishwashers get to at least ~130 degrees, do they not? I would be concerned that when I opened up the dishwasher, the Finecast model would be a glob of grey all over my china.

MisCast strikes again

puma713 wrote:Looks like the resin one is the one with the droopy iron cross for a belt-buckle.

Kilkrazy wrote:
I don't believe in not washing models I've had my dirty hands all over. I just put my stuff through the dishwasher in batches. I can do it when the washer is nearly full of plates, so it isn't even an extra run.

Have you tried this with a Finecast model yet? Most dishwashers get to at least ~130 degrees, do they not? I would be concerned that when I opened up the dishwasher, the Finecast model would be a glob of grey all over my china.

In Europe you can set your dishwasher to 35 degrees Celcius, which I know from experience is cool enough not to worry standard resin or plastic. It's about body temperature.

I haven't got any Finecast models. I would do a test with a piece of sprue.

Back on topic, I would guess the figure with the pitted cloak was metal, but I've seen similar pitting on Finecast models, so I don't know.

They are very similar and I really can't pick between them. The detail on both is impressive.

Unless they have changed their policy, GW should replace the model for you, no cost at all. That part of their service is one reason for prices being "high".

That being said, I had an issue with another gaming company recently. Ordered about 70 dollars worth of product. Never received the product. Their response? I mailed it out, sorry if it was misdelivered, no we're not going to replace the models o give you a refund.

GW never gives me an issue. So, I have no problem paying alittle bit more ( even though for most of their products you don't, if you know what you are doing).

My one concern about resin isn't dropping it....its leaving the army in a case and either leaving it in a car or shipping it somewhere, where heat may melt the model....

Thanks for this comparison thread...

Noisy_Marine wrote:

Kilkrazy wrote:Real wargamers replace spears and poles with steel wire.

I've been meaning to do that with my Bane Knights.

And I also cannot tell the difference between the two Sterns.

While wargamers might use steel wire, hobbyists use brass rod.

It looks like the Finecast one is missing the end of his nose.

Magos Explorator wrote:It looks like the Finecast one is missing the end of his nose.

I blame M'Kachen... he must have M'Kaught his nose.

Thanks for the comparisons! lt's a shame they haven't made many IG Finecasts yet, or else I might splurge.

UG

Laughing Man wrote:Allegedly. Apparently it has enough tooth to hold paint just fine by its own, but I personally don't really buy it.

The unprimed resin actually does seem to hold paint rather well, better than metal by far. It doesn't scrape off easily, but will still come off if you use something hard enough.

It's probably like canvas. It'll hold paint well enough but any sensible painter will gesso it first for optimum durability.

Nice side-by-side comparisons of the primed model... looking forward to seeing the OP's in the same primer/flat color as well if possible, when you get the chance to go through with it.

A lot of our guys are painting up some finecast, and are all skipping the primer phase. On less layer to cover up the detail.

I seriously can't recommend primers enough with this stuff. I painted primer free on finecast and that stuff came right off like it does on metal with very little handling. Plus the color is just off to me without that "Base" layer.

I should add that the conditions down here in Mississippi right now (Blasting hot and humid as a swimming pool) might have been a factor.

Can you put both models in a car on a hot day and leave them for 2 hours?

Repost pics and see if we can spot the difference...

Waaagh_Gonads wrote:Can you put both models in a car on a hot day and leave them for 2 hours?

Repost pics and see if we can spot the difference...

You buy me a Njal Stormcaller and I will put it beside my metal one in a car in Nth QLD and take progressive pics for you all