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[[VIDEO]] Miniature Painting Fundamentals 2 : PAINTS by Lester Bursley  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





San Diego, CA USA




 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




192.168.4.20

thanks for another great video!


''if you try the best you can, the best you can is good enough''
-
''People will call me a failure. Others, however, will call me the world's sexiest killing machine, who's fun at parties.''
 
   
Made in nz
Axis & Allies Player




netherlands

I use GW paints, and tubes of acrylic paints. I mix, i don't need lots of colors. Great vid tho, whats your experience like with this 'liquid gold'?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/10/05 10:55:53


 
   
Made in us
Deadly Dire Avenger




Seattle, WA

A couple years ago, my dad bought me some p3 paints and told me to use them, but I never did. I was picky and ONLY used GW paints (hell, I still am!). I knew the GW paints were expensive, but I didn't know they were THAT expensive compared to others. Now I have like 120$ worth of paint from GW, when I could have spent 60$ and gotten more... Well, I guess I learned my lesson. I'm going to start buying p3 from now on, thanks for widening my eyes!!!

Eldar (Alaitoc): 2,500 pts
Space Marines (Salamanders): 1,500 pts

Fly like a , sting like a  
   
Made in us
Rogue Daemonhunter fueled by Chaos






Toledo, OH

I've started playing with the Reaper Master Series, and the one thing that I find helpful is the "Triad" system, where they give you three colors set up as a shade, base, and highlight color. I've been mostly a paint and wash kind of guy, but when doing some layering for my eldar I've grown to like the Reaper Stuff. the first three triads in particular give a smooth transiation from deep brick red through lemon yellow.

I used to use the Pro series years and years ago, and there was nothing about it that made me really recommend it. The reds and yellows were also weak,and required a lot of coats. Maybe they've fixed that however.
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Reaper pro series have more pigment in them granted I've only used select colors from that line. The metallics I've found to be wonderful, in particular Dragon Gold which is the single best base color for gold armor ever.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Knight Exemplar



United States

If you don't use GW washes, what do you use?
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Les uses home made washes. I also use the same recipe and they work far better than GW ones. You can learn how to make them on his website.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Painting Within the Lines





Poole Dorset UK

Thanks Les, I'd not really considered buying non GW paints before. I'm going to give the Vallejo a try, as they are easier to get in the UK than reaper.

Also watched your video on brushes and will be making a purchase soon, probably army painter - regiment brush. The handle looks like it'll give me less cramp in my hand.

All your video's have really helped me get into painting, please keep up the good work.

Hangfire

FOW: Soviet - Tankovy
Infinity: Aleph

 
   
Made in gb
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade






Bristol, UK

Awesome vid Mr. Bursley. I keep meaning to get some P3 paints.
I've always been a fan of sticking it to GW, and have tirelessly plugged Coat D'arms paints in the past. I like the paint, and I love the price.

I've never however, used Vallejo. Does anyone have a non-biased opinion of the difference between the two? Immediately I see a difference of about 10p a pot, equating to a 0.5p per ml.

Cheaper? Yes. Better? I don't know. Opinions?

Over time I'm replacing my GW paint horde with alternative products. After blindly buying up a ton of paints when i began the hobby, I regretfully found all these great paints after a year or so of collecting.
Agreeing with Les, I can wholly reccomend at least trying alternative products. Whilst GW's products aren't the worst on the market, they are certainly the deerest.

   
Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





San Diego, CA USA

Saruus wrote:If you don't use GW washes, what do you use?


I've recently switched to using all Vallejo Game Color washes and inks instead of using my own recipe. Since I no longer sell them. And after watching a tutorial people want to know where to get certain colors. It's easier to point them to a manufacturer.

Polonius wrote:I've started playing with the Reaper Master Series, and the one thing that I find helpful is the "Triad" system, where they give you three colors set up as a shade, base, and highlight color. I've been mostly a paint and wash kind of guy, but when doing some layering for my eldar I've grown to like the Reaper Stuff. the first three triads in particular give a smooth transiation from deep brick red through lemon yellow.

I used to use the Pro series years and years ago, and there was nothing about it that made me really recommend it. The reds and yellows were also weak,and required a lot of coats. Maybe they've fixed that however.


I also just picked up a bunch of triads from reaper (after the video was shot sadly) and they are great. The flesh tone triads (fair, tanned, and rosey) are my favorite. And can't wait to use the dead flesh triad. They are as good a quality as Vallejo in that I have not found any colors that were terrible so far.

space_elf5996 wrote:A couple years ago, my dad bought me some p3 paints and told me to use them, but I never did. I was picky and ONLY used GW paints (hell, I still am!). I knew the GW paints were expensive, but I didn't know they were THAT expensive compared to others. Now I have like 120$ worth of paint from GW, when I could have spent 60$ and gotten more... Well, I guess I learned my lesson. I'm going to start buying p3 from now on, thanks for widening my eyes!!!


No problem, it was just a different way of looking at the paints we buy and getting the best stuff for you money.

Hangfire wrote:Thanks Les, I'd not really considered buying non GW paints before. I'm going to give the Vallejo a try, as they are easier to get in the UK than reaper.

Also watched your video on brushes and will be making a purchase soon, probably army painter - regiment brush. The handle looks like it'll give me less cramp in my hand.

All your video's have really helped me get into painting, please keep up the good work.

Hangfire


I'm glad you like the videos! And army painter brushes are what I started out using when I got back into the hobby. Very good brushes for the price and yes, the triangle handles are nice on the hands.

Tek wrote:Awesome vid Mr. Bursley. I keep meaning to get some P3 paints.
I've always been a fan of sticking it to GW, and have tirelessly plugged Coat D'arms paints in the past. I like the paint, and I love the price.

I've never however, used Vallejo. Does anyone have a non-biased opinion of the difference between the two? Immediately I see a difference of about 10p a pot, equating to a 0.5p per ml.

Cheaper? Yes. Better? I don't know. Opinions?

Over time I'm replacing my GW paint horde with alternative products. After blindly buying up a ton of paints when i began the hobby, I regretfully found all these great paints after a year or so of collecting.
Agreeing with Les, I can wholly reccomend at least trying alternative products. Whilst GW's products aren't the worst on the market, they are certainly the deerest.


When I converted to Vallejo I had a bunch of GW paints left so there was a couple of months where I was using the 2 lines together and had no problems. I hear people say the Vallejo Metallics are not as good as the GW but they are pretty much the same in that I didn't see any difference that would make me choose one over the other. As far as quality of paint, I would say Vallejo and GW are the same. I switched to Vallejo only because GW discontinued certain paints that I needed and if I can carry a line that has all the colors I need and more I'll go there. And when I started airbrushing, the dropper bottles helped a lot.

I was trying to be unbiased in the video so I apologize if it came off differently.

 
   
Made in us
Rogue Daemonhunter fueled by Chaos






Toledo, OH

I'm sorry to hear that you're not selling your washes anymore. I've been enjoying them in my painting, as well as variations from the recipe you put out. I tend to use a lot of wash, so buying little pots seems dumb to me.

   
Made in gb
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade






Bristol, UK

^Polonius, check out the "Les' Wash Recipe Revealed!" thread in the same subforum.

LBursley wrote:
When I converted to Vallejo I had a bunch of GW paints left so there was a couple of months where I was using the 2 lines together and had no problems. I hear people say the Vallejo Metallics are not as good as the GW but they are pretty much the same in that I didn't see any difference that would make me choose one over the other. As far as quality of paint, I would say Vallejo and GW are the same. I switched to Vallejo only because GW discontinued certain paints that I needed and if I can carry a line that has all the colors I need and more I'll go there. And when I started airbrushing, the dropper bottles helped a lot.

I was trying to be unbiased in the video so I apologize if it came off differently.


Dude, I should be the one apologising! I never meant to say that your review came across biased at all. Sorry for my poor communication.

My question was to the community as a whole if they have a preference to Coat D'arms or Vallejo.
Personally I (similarly to you) got into Coat D'arms due to GW discontinuing various colours that I liked. Coat D'arms is very easy to get hold of in the UK, and I'm a bit of a fanboy. So my opinion is openly biased. This was why I enquired about an unbiased opinion. Nothing to do with you dude - props to you. Sorry again if my post bitched at you, this was completely unintentional.

   
Made in us
Scuttling Genestealer







For the dropper bottles, what would you suggest we dip out of then? Do you drop some paint on a palette of sorts and use that? I actually use these containers I got from Michael's for a dollar to hold my custom mixes, but it's still a pot and still dries out on the lid especially.

DA:90S++G-MB++I+Pw40k08-D++A+/hWD-R+T(M)DM+

 
   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Dark Angels Predator Pilot





Indianapolis, Indiana

Very informative. I just started painting 40k models a few months ago so I've yet to have any dried out paints from GW, but I'm certainly not looking forward to that happening. All of your tutorial videos really help because I am starting to airbrush (if I can ever get my stupid IWATA HP-SB fixed) and I didn't realize that these airbrush paints were so affordable. USABLE RIGHT OUT OF THE BOTTLE?! I'm in right there. Hopefully I'll be doing a lot less thinning and mixing if I can avoid it.



Attention all space marine bashing neckbeards: Nobody cares what you have to say, so stop trying and go cry yourself to sleep. 
   
Made in br
Pewling Menial




Duque de Caxias, RJ, Brazil

Les, your videos are probably the best painting video-tutorials i got without having to pay for them. Please keep with the Miniature Painting Fundamentals series and try making non-Space Marines tutorials.

Yirr-Khalian Craftworld - Under construction 
   
 
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