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Just throwing up some terrain I am currently working on. Tips and critics apreciated!
Still gonna add some details and cover the gap between the two sections.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/10 12:06:03
A layer of watered down PVA is a classic sealer. However, you will want to make sure that you get both sides as PVA on one side can cause warping. Even with both sides, you might get a bit, but it's worth a try.
The building is mostly made out of some plasticard I had laying around so I will not be worried about moisture or something but to be honest I never had any issues with cardboard and moisture..
Thank you for the tutorial ma55terfet. that is actually very helpfull and looks very easy to do!
jelrik wrote:Good idea on the texture paint, Any sugestions on brands Curnow?
Indeed mr phil this saves you a whole lot of moneys. But I have to be honnest it still costs more then I expected..
I would just pick up some fine sand from your hardware store or from the beach. Either mix it into the paint or sprinkle some on before the first coat dries and then add a second coat of paint.
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jelrik wrote:Good idea on the texture paint, Any sugestions on brands Curnow?..
Depends on the kind of texture.
For something a bit stucco'ish, just paint on watered down plaster or woodfiller. Any brand will do.
For something a bit more coarse I would just pick up some fine sand from your hardware store or from the beach. Either mix it into the paint or sprinkle some on before the first coat dries and then add a second coat of paint.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/06 20:18:27
i wouldnt use beach sand not unless you want efflorecence stains bleeding through the paint ..
Efflorescence is one type of white deposit found on masonry. It is formed by water, within the construction material, reacting with the natural salts contained within them and the mortar. These salts dissolve in the water and are carried to, and deposited on the surface,
and the problem with mixing normal sand in with paint is you can never get a even consistancy .
ive just used what ever the cheapest texturec masonry paint is in your local diy superstore ether brico or hornback judgeing from your flag :]
I wonder,
- If you took a 1/4 or 1/8 sheet of hard foam (craft or insulation)
- glue onto the wall as seen above
- cut out the holes for the windows and add the strips (again seen above)
- mark out the lines for bricks with a pencil,
- indent the lines using a ball point pen (adding some variation)
Would this be a cheap brick wall that would look good? Biggest problem I can think of would be getting hard foam thin enough, but you could use a hot foam cutter on softer foam.
The dense foam you get from a home improvement store can be cut with a dado blade or on a router table.. It would allow you to add some variation in the thickness like the lines between the windows. With the windows inset roughly a 1/4". You can then make your brick pattern on the foam.. I have seen some amazing examples of people using the insulation foam on building different effects.. So only thing that will limit you is your imagination..
Though if you want my thoughts, try and get some foam core sheeting instead of cardboard. At my local craft shop you can buy big panels for a few bucks. It's the stuff which is soft foam in the middle and plastic sheeting either side to support it. You can buy various types, have a look at what's available.
Cardboard is fine, but all the terrain I've made from cardboard I've always later wished I just made from foamcore. It's less likely to warp, it ages better, and cardboard you often see a rippling affect from the core (especially as it ages or gets moist when paint it).
Where are the ladders! Where are the supports for the hangovers? I know it's the future but I doutb they could hold the weight of all the space marines!
Otherwise looking very good; I know a guy in Melbourne who uses (flour type?) sawdust for his flock which may work with a texture paste as well as it's very fine. $10 for 60L (big bag).
Or you can stipple it like he does
Or make a texture paste like he does for the city bases
Where are the ladders! Where are the supports for the hangovers? I know it's the future but I doutb they could hold the weight of all the space marines!
Otherwise looking very good; I know a guy in Melbourne who uses (flour type?) sawdust for his flock which may work with a texture paste as well as it's very fine. $10 for 60L (big bag).
Seen his articles. Good stuff all around.
I love this kind of terrain. This was something that was common 20+ years ago. It is easy to do. It really does last and it is easy repair. But the most important thing is that this is a way to save money.
And the satisfaction of knowing that I made this myself.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/07 14:34:32
Adam's Motto: Paint, Create, Play, but above all, have fun. -and for something silly below-
"We are the Ultramodrines, And We Shall Fear No Trolls. bear this USR with pride".
Also, how does one apply to be a member of the Ultramodrines? Are harsh trials involved, ones that would test my faith as a wargamer and resolve as a geek?
You must recite every rule of Dakka Dakka. BACKWARDS.
in a little hole in the ground...crying myself to sleep
Good stuff, I've been doing this for a while (back when I made terrain for my gaming store) but I learned it a long time ago from the white dwarf article 'cardboard city'.
I wish they still had articles like that in WD instead of crappy battle reports and that 'eavy metal nonsense.
Conduct While Gaming
While rolling a die, do not say, “Anything but a 1!” unless you wish the die to come up as 1. Any other such attempts to anger the “Dice Gods” will result in the existential equivalent of continuously flipping a coin and having it come up heads every time (for reference, see Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead). Your dice will be cursed to roll ones for everything other than morale checks, which will come up sixes.
ORK PLAYERS HAVE A LIMIT OF 1 SCREAMS OF WAAAAAAGH PER HOUR. violators will be forced to play tau.
Players with chimeras and las weapons shall pronounce chimera ki-mere-uh, not chim-ere-uh. Violators will be forced to play nothing but world eaters. Non-40k personnel must purchase and build a chimera.
One thing I'm going to try this weekend when making a building or two is to print out some "building terrain" on paper (may have to print it out at a office supply store with printers and such) to put onto the side. Going to put on the extra bits for depth. Though I still haven't looked up any site for this yet though.
I have bought foamcore and its great stuff wich I will use a lot more in future projects!
Back to the terrain, I added al kinds of pre shaped plasticard and rubble made of sprues cardboard and guitare wire. I think it is ready for primer, since I dont want to invest to much time in this(as it has to be easy.)
With that much of the building gone there should be a small hill of debris. Since the the building is already cut away I'd just leave the bottom floor bare except a few scattered flat pieces you already have there, also makes it easier to move models around.
This is a good alternative to spending a million pounds 
