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Any ideas on how to effectively build a mek with SAK?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in gb
Faithful Squig Companion





Somewhere in the UK

Here it is,




Automatically Appended Next Post:
The glue used is citadel thin super glue.
[Thumb - Bigmek.JPG]
Big mek

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/08/24 15:08:31


Pigmyork = Some mad Speed Freek mek, with half an insane grot addicted to drugs and cheez's brain merged with his...

"Get 'em boyz! Dakka dakka dakka!
WAAAGH! THE ORKS! WAAAGH!"
-Rotgob, Ork strategist

Pwease cwick the ickle dwgon/egg  
   
Made in se
Regular Dakkanaut






I you've already tried to glue it and it's not strong enough, you have to pin it. alternatively support it with greenstuff and/or plasticard.

Metal figures are pretty much notorious for having to be pinned, so if you don't have a pinvice I'd advice investing in one. A good selection of pinning wire and drillsizes helps as well.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Sadly, the true answer is:

Sell it and go buy the finecast version.

That is literally the worst model I ever had the pain of dealing with. He is hard to assemble, hard to stay in one piece... and hard to paint in one piece which means you paint him in pieces and never get him assembled.

You need to probably pin the gun shoulder and GS sandwich the arms. GS sandwich is:

Metal - superglue - GS blob - Superglue - Metal

Basically the GS won't bond to the metal super strong, but the Super glue will bond to both. And then when you sandwich it, it fills in all the holes so you don't have a possible uneven metal to metal join.

Also allows wiggle room with the only thing is possibly a larger join crack, but that model hodes both those with details due to the nature of the join.


My Models: Ork Army: Waaagh 'Az-ard - Chibi Dungeon RPG Models! - My Workblog!
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RULE OF COOL: When converting models, there is only one rule: "The better your model looks, the less people will complain about it."
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MODELING FOR ADVANTAGE TEST: rigeld2: "Easy test - are you willing to play the model as a stock one? No? MFA." 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK

Citadel superglue is appalling. Bin it.

The model can be assembled and pinned nicely. It must be washed before work; metal models are often covered in a bit of talc or mould release, or just finger grease. Clean surfaces are the order of the day.

Where you want to glue, a quick rough up with a small wire brush can do wonders. You will want to pin the parts securely before painting. Proper pins, not ittle bits of paperclip, and a good deep pinning, not just a couple of mm. The pins bear the weight, not the glue.


 
   
Made in us
Stealthy Grot Snipa





Atlanta, GA

I always pin with jumbo paperclips, and that seems to work for me. Sink the pins deeper into the body, wash your model beforehand with dish soap, warm water. I scrub them with an old toothbrush. You can also take the tip of an x-acto knife and score thin lines into the flat connection point between arm/body to help the glue take better. (More surface area from the scratches helps the glue.)
   
Made in gb
Faithful Squig Companion





Somewhere in the UK

Okay,
cheers everyone

Pigmyork = Some mad Speed Freek mek, with half an insane grot addicted to drugs and cheez's brain merged with his...

"Get 'em boyz! Dakka dakka dakka!
WAAAGH! THE ORKS! WAAAGH!"
-Rotgob, Ork strategist

Pwease cwick the ickle dwgon/egg  
   
 
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