This needs to be taken to a different board. Its not Off Topic for gaming.
An earlier reply to a similar question:
1. Plywood warps. Unless you want your terrain in the Eye of Terror I suggest you start against with
MDF. You will be better off discarding your plywood and starting again than contining with what you have got.
2. When buying
MDf think about cartage and storage. Ask yourself this first question: How mobile must this board be? This will determine the required thickness.
MDF normally comes in 6mm or 12mm thicknesses, somtime you can find 9mm. Anything beyond 6 and 12 respectively is too weak or unnecesarily heavy. Games clubs use thick
MDF but you need not do so.
6mm is good enough for home, but you cannot allow any significant overhang. 12mm is better but you will suffer for carrying it any reasonable distance.
3. Consider from the outset whether you want your board folding. I recommend folding boards whioleheartedly, its generally woerth ther extra effort to split a board in half and add a form of hinge. More on this later.
4. Next observe all the miniatures you wish to use the game board for. Try and be as inclusive as you can. This will determine your eventual covers.
Pay attention to the following details, your own armies basing (with exception for those armies you wish to rebase to fit the gaming table rather than the other way around. Also look at the armies you collect, if you have orcs chaos and tomb kings try a wasteland board. If you have Empire and High Elves try a grassland board. For
40K anything goes.
Also look at your non
GW miniatures, if any, and those of other scales and genres. Try and avoid specialising your terrain more than is absolutely necessary, some detail brings out a board, but the les gebneric you get the less versatile it is. If you want to use the game for both fantasy and science fiction games try and keep the terrain natural. If you want to add games of a different scale keep your terrain really generixc avoiding even roads and water features other than the odd lake on the main surface. I can give you clearer hints if you give a lit of all the games and armies you wish to play on the gameboard, there are some neat tricks that can disguise terrain scale while giving it a reasonably strong level of detail and make it very customisable.
5. With respect to docbrowns advice unless you have a lot of room to have a permanent specific gaming table avoid adding much sculpting detail craters etc to the gameboard. Keep it flat, keep it 'boring' keep it foldable or able to stand against the wall without being damaged and above all keep it two sided. Your
MDF (or if you want to go with others recommendations plywood) sheet has two sides, use them both. You may consider covering the reverse side straight off with sea blue or space black with appropriate wave or star details for naval wargaming. If you don't do naval wargamihng you have the option to have two different terrain types. This can be useful if you do
40K and fantasy as grasslands is the default fantasy terrain while
40K benefits from urban for easy terrain solutions. If you do do naval wargaming then choose a one colours fits all (I would head towards southern european part grass part desert frankly) this helps if you want to take advantage of that later and rim all your miniatures to match your new terrain.
6. Consider what add on terrain you want. Placeable terrain is better than fixed on terrain in nearly all circumstances. Sculpted terrain cvan be awesome to look at but it has a number of downsides. Its static, even modular terrain tiles lose theri versatility quickly and add the unsightly gaps which are the reason for scuplted terrain in the first place. A flat gaming table with terrain elements also benefits from using terrain generator rules, allows free use of special rules such as extra woods for Wood Elves, allow terrain features to be destroyed nasty weapons or moved by magic etc etc. Most of all by keeping the terrain board flat and 'featureless' it means that it is easily storable, especially if you add a hinge.
How I would do it.
I will have to make some assumptions here.
The first is that you play two different genres of gaming and you feel after a little thought that having a reverse side will be beneficial. I will assume for now the reserve side is for naval wargaming, and you also want to play some sea and space naval wargames from time to time. I will also assume you are an smaller scale such as epic, 15mm historical or battletech player, or wish to become one, or want to share your board with someone who is.
If none of this applies to you dont worry the same advice is forthcoming, its just that the job becomes easier as those things you need to account for due to the above you can forgo for greater flexibility with the games you do play.
1. Get your tools.
You need some spray glue or other large surface glue, a saw measuring tools like a square or protractor a foam cutter and general cutting and gluing stuff most gamers find they need. Nothing worse than having a large board stuck in your workroom and you cant proceed.
2. Get your materials.
You need
MDF (not plywood)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard and three small bolts of cloth, the first about 10 to 12 feet, the other two a few inches over 8 feet long. the third bolt you can forgo if you don't want any other terrain types. One large bolt of nylon each over 16 feet long and over 4 feet wide. This should not cost much. Ask for small samples of the cloth you buy, a good haberdashers will understand as materials testing is a normal request. You will also needs some thick Extruded polystyrene insulating foam, it is colour coded by density buy either 'yellow/pink' or 'blue' foam. 'Pink' is cheaper and good enough, 'blue' is extra quality, don't buy 'white', you will regret going cheap. I have some neat tricks that involve other materials, I will mention those in more detail later in the relevant sections, the above is all you need for the basic gameboard.
Depending on options chosen consider sourcing the following: 8-9mm square section plastic wire channels, filiment reinforced tape (try and borrow some, its expensive and you wont need a whole reel).
3. Test your materials.
Make sure the cloth and nylon sticks to bits of
mdf and foam with the glue you have. You need to find out before you start whether the stuff you use is going to damage the foam or not stick.
4. Cut your board.
When you buy
MDF, like plywood it comes in 8'x4'. This is why that board size became the standard for historical wargaming. At the DIY place you buy the boards ask to get it cut, that is normally a free service for basic cutting. Special cuts might require a charge. Get all your cutting done at source, it will save you time and hassle.
Basic cut: Cut the board in half widthways or lengthways making sure both sides are even. Make sure the staff measures well and stacks the two pieces for you to see. Lengthways cutting results in ungainly dimensions, its still 8' long but is actually easier to carry than 4'x4'. Square pieces fit in the car easier.
Advanced cut: In addition to the basic cut also cut off the four corners. I suggest taking an even triangle off each corner one foot in from the corner. This will cut a total of two square feet from the board and will make measuring the corners slightly harder but will be or immeasurable benefit in gameplay. Oh and make sure only four corners total are sawn off, leave the 'hinge' whole.
Cutting corners, the reasons why.
Corners for large gaming boards are a pain, especially and sometimes literally if there is a hard right angle. There is a reason dining tables are rounded either weith rounded corners or a rounded cross section. catching clothing on corners is not good for the clothing, or for the corner, or for that matter for the table if knocked.
Second corners add little to the game area but take away a lot from the room its in. Players have to be careful around corners, so in a small room, or with lots of gamers around the table those extra two square feet are a lot of bother. they are not much in the way of useable space either, most of the action is or should be nearer the center of the board.
Third unless your tabletop actually represents a rectangular gladiatorial arena there will normally ne no real hard edges to a battlefield. Indeed most arenas avoided corners because people and animals might use them, but I digress. A corner is a nice area to place a basilisk where it cannot be flanked. However cut a one foot deep corner off a gaming table and the same basiliks has no way not to show a flank, unless a terrain feature allows so, which is considerably more fair than being shielded by a couple of invisible impregnable board edges. Cutting corners helps in many ways. You do lose out a little in corner deployment games however the cut down small 'octagon' sides also make good entry points wider and more practical than a corner.
Fourth with an 8'x4' the core region of 6'x4' is not touched in fact the two corners mark out where 6'x4' actually is, with the two out foot of the long side being taken away. So you can play straight
40K and Warhammer knowing exactly where the official side board edges are and use the end sides as storage space for reserves, the dead, and gaming materials.
Whether you cut your board one way or five proceeded to step 5.
5. Tape your hinge.
If your board is still 8'x4' or you cut the corners off and yet didn't cut the board in half, proceed to step 6.
Hold the board pieces back to back tightly include a cardboard spacer of the width of four pieces of the cloth you have bought, two thickness of nylon, two thickness of surfacing cloth, it wont be much but it will be noticable. You must account for the thickness of the full board including its cloth covering when you make the hinge. You might want to secure the two pieces with masking tape on the sides, except where the hinge is to be.
Next run a single piece of filament reinforced tape over the hinge area along the edge of the two pieces side by side. This forms the 'inside' of the hinge. Make sure the tape is straight before folding down evenly on both sides. Cut the tape trim on each end, do not fold over the side edges. Once the tape is secure remove and masking tape and inserts and open your board carefully on a clean even surface. Carefully add a spacer on the inside of the hinge. Move slow on this as the board will be delicate until you add the other half of the tape. The board halves will pinch tape on the depth of the hinge, cover the reverse side of the hinge including the thin bit of tape between the two haves sticky side up with more filament reinforced tape. Job done, you now have your cloth hinge.
If you don't have filament reinforced tape, or dont want to mess with the stuff either use the nylon alone for a cloth hinge or keep the board as a single piece, ordinary tape will not do.
6. Nylon coat your board, both sides.
Dryfit your nylon over the board, mark out in pen any holes you want (see below) do not make too many or you weaken the surface and have no holes near the hinge and board edges. Now it is time to glue the nylon to the
MDF, this will take two people to get right and straight. Start with the side where the tape hinge is rather than the fold edge. Allow to dry flat before gluing the reverse. When gluing the reverse edge fold the board in half standing it on end, you may be advised to glue most of one half up to but not crossing the hinge, waiting half an hour before folding the board and gluing over the 'crevase' of the hinge and then down the rest of the board tgo complete the surface.
While drying if you get any ripples cit them away and glue flat or leave small irregular holes. Dont add too many holes, you need a good covering but some holes are fine.
When all is done fold over and glue the nylon over the edges as a neat double covering of nylon. I hope you chose a good neutral colour.
Holey nylon Batman!; the reasons why.
Nylon is super strong stuff, it has great lateral strength, by adding a nylon coating you have added a strong polymer later that is tough and hard wearing. If the glue you use to add the nylon is up to the task you will have an armoured gameboard. However you dont need your 5+ cloth save everywhere, you can if you wish afford some holes in the nylon cover.
Why do this? Because a flat gameboard is a boring gameboard, its a billiard table with terrain pieces, its the reason some people want sculpted terrain. However the thickness of one piece of underlay cloth missing in parts will cause a slight unevenness, not enough to make terrain you lay on top uneven but enough to remove the unsightly prefection of the game surface. Subtle but suprisingly effective.
You dont need to make holes if you dont want to, on the space/sea side of the gameboard you are better off not including holes. An even covering for naval wargames is benefical and doesnt lead to the feeling there is something wrong with the terrain. If you like glue some pieces of nylon from the holes over other bits of nylon for small areas of double surface. This is actually not necessary and should only be tried on the outside side of the board. It may increase overall wear because you make parts of the outer surface prominent slightly.
7. Cover with your covering cloth.
This is handled just the same as the nylon layer except that you are gluing cloth to nylon not
MDF (except where holes are). Unlike the nylon layer you want the outside cloth layer cut trim with the sides of the board, or in fact about one or two millimetres inside the edge of the board if you can cut it evenly.
8. Drybrush your covering cloth carefully.
You should get your old gluing swatches and practice your drybrush colour palette first. Whrite down exactly what you do so it can be replicated with new terrain features, or heaven forbid repairs, as needed. Pay attention to any basing rims you have fro your armies that you want to keep. Simply by matching ther rims to the board colour will add an element of quality to the entire effect it will be hard to better with any amount of terrain detail. This goes doubly so with Privateer Press miniatures and any others which have a thick and prominent basing edge.
9. Prepare your terrain pieces.
Now cover the pink foam and or thin sheets of board with the leftover cloth and drybrush. Make sure the lower sides of the drybrush exactly matches the drybrush scheme of the main board, this will help your terrain pieces blend in. Follow this advice for any other terrain piece you make. It might be a different colour (to taste) in the middle or on top, but keep the edges generic, this way all your terrain will neatly fit onto your gameboard. In all the below cases the edging or whole covering of cloth coloured the same of the gameboard should be folded under the terrain a bit so that the 'seam' between game piece and gameboard is as unobtrusive as possible.
Terrain pieces careful choices and tips.
I would make your generic terrain big and 'chunky', the following is a good start for a landscape: Two large woods, two large hills, one wooded hill, one lake, one marsh and one broken ground, some mesas, some genre specific pieces. You will know how to make terrain hills but is more to it than most people realise.
Large woods: Use conifer trees. A conifer could be head height to an orc or a battlemech and look right so long as you keep the terrain pieces to a simple edging of the terrain plus a dark brownish interior (conifers leave brown bits all over the ground). I would arrange the conifers around the edge of the terrain piece, making the interior hollow. By making the woods 'large' you will have room for one or more movement trays inside. For full tactical flexibility in the game woods should be circumnavicable or used as game edge terrain. Ensure both of these by keeping at least one edge of the wood less than 9 inches in length. This way you can march around the woods without taking up most of the games movment for an average unit. Some edges can be longer to allow an interior. Your wood should have room for units to fight on the edge of the woods or fight each other entirely in the woods. You might want to make up little terrain cards painted the exact same colour as the wood interior with two or three trees on them. This is filler for the woods to be moved around or removed to account for units.
So long as you use area terrain rules rather than true
LOS these types of woods also make good game terrain for
40k and other
SF/modern skirmish formation games. a good rule of thumb for interiors, can you hide a tank in your woods. The woods need not hide a non-Epic titan.
Large hills: Pink foam cut with foam cutter to size. The same sort of size as the large woods. Big enough to have units and vehicles on it. Whether you want true
LOS or have hills representative of hills is up to you. If the former, you might want to xconsder the height of the hill pieces to account for giving rises in the ground big enough to conceal tanks. If representative you can delcare tanks behind hills hidden. How steep you want the sides of your hills is up to what you play, if you play Battltech pay attention to 'level' heights with comparison to your miniatures. Level 1 hills should come up to an average mech's waist, level 2 should be twice as high and roughly equal head height.
For warhammer and warmachine try sharply sloped hills for the benefit of movement trays/formations and to make it easy to determine which miniature is in and not in which bit of terrain. Having units half off a terrain edge is cumbersome and enciourages steeper hills, however if it looks like a cliff then in some smaller scale games it is a cliff. Be careful not to make your generic hills impassable to regular Battletech/Epic vehicles and infantry.
Wooded hill: A blend of the two. Make a slightly shallower slope and use the slope itself to mount the trees. The hilltop could be bald or wooded, I suggest depicting it as bald anyway for ease of deploying units, you can still delcalre units in the wooded hill as in cover in one game and above the cover in the next. Just be clear about it by adding a card with some trees or not on the hilltop.
Lake: Some armies in some games like a water feature. Mechs like a dip to cool down, skinks get a terrain bonus that is wasted unless there is some water somewhere, and hovercraft don't come into their own without a lake to cross. One fairly sizable piece is generally enough. Lakes are tricky to get right as you will need to fake depth. Depth is something sculpted terrain can provide which add on terrain cannot, but there are some cheats. First you could build your lake with a levee around it, this will look odd unless for a non natural reservoir, in which case it is very reasonable.
Make your lake base out of thin plasticard, you need plasticard because you want it thin as possible while remaining sturdy. Layer it relatively thick around the edges and cover the whole edge with the normal cloth drybrushed the normal way to blend in. Paint tet plasticard in the middle either dark brown, a deep blue or a deep green. Now dryfit some clear plasticard to it, drybrush the underside of the plasticard a lighter shade of the basecolour, it will be slightly higher than the basecvoat level, inkwash the plasticard a little (the inkwash will not 'hold' well) but it will all sjhortly be sealed. Glue the clear plasticard to the lake bottom with PVA glue. Now drybrush the top of the plasticard a ytet lighter shade and inkwash again. Dryfit a second piece of plasticard just like the first, wash and drybrush the underside of thatv and glue it. This now adds a fourth layer of depth. Varnish the top tinted with the same colour inkwash for a fifth and final layer of depth, careful go over the rim of the lake so it belnds between the water and the generic terrain colour of the main board, sand is good here. To keep your lake generic in terms of scale avoid adding rocks, lillies or rushes to it.
Marsh: Another skink happy water feature, slowing a lot of things but not blocking
LOS for firepower. a welcome piece of twerrain for parts of a shooty army to hide behind, bad to advance through unless you are an aquatic monster of some sort. Marshes are underused and are good fantasy terrain. Again keep the base terrain piece thin because it is rather flat and extra height fro the gamepiece will stand out. Make a rim just as with the lake. Add a layer of card with holes cut in it, fill thr holes with varnish and colour it, giove the raised ground a sickly green or brown look, make it in parts match the colour of the generic terrain so the marsh filters in. Avoid terrain except for mud and muddy pools, which can be any side, certainly avoid footprints/tracks or any other scale or genre reference imprints in favour of rain mottled grainy mud. Keep it all nice an flat so a large base titan can step right onto it, whether that is a good idea or not is up to your rules.
Broken ground: A bit like marshes except that aquatics dont benefit much from it. Prepare the same as for Marshes except that you need have no holes in the cover layer, though a few might help to make the broken ground uneven. Cover tyhev ground with bits of flat stone. The trick here is to give the impression of ground you don't want vehicles in without preventing an actual model vehicle or monster from standing up straight in it. Chariots might never get into broken ground, but a hive tyrant might and a titan will just ignore it. Making the stone plentiful and mostly flat will mean that you can let big models use the broken ground. Bropken ground need be more than kneee high to a guardsman to be a seruious obstacle to in scale vehicles. Needless to say it will represent big boulders to an Epic/Battletech unit.
Mesas/rock spires: You may well ignore this bit if you have play with big toys, though a few small but tall rock spires will add flavour to any battlefield as small bits of impassable terrain. These sheer sided cliff hill elements are natures way of providing skyscrapers without having to have a cityscape. take your thick pink foam and but it into hills, but this time using the edge as the base. Mesas shouldn't be big, just big enough to be stable at the height you crop them to. I suggest making some tank obscuring rockl spires and some titan/flyer obscuring rock spires. These will need to be quite wide as well as tall to be workable. As with all terrain keep the bottom edge covered and drybrushed in the generic colours, however starting with the edge of the cloth ujpwrds add generous amouts
ot testure paint and then drybrush a changing bleaker colour upwards so the rock blends in but has its own distinctive tone. For inspiration how about American mid west red or a pale Ulthuan light grey. Both should work well. You might add the odd conifer or two on the bottom slopes, and add bits of tumbled rock to the edges. Keep the size practical though, tall enough to conceal a Warhound or other big nasty (anything over a foot tall is good enough for that) and about 25% wider than your largest eligible titans base on its widest dimension to add meaningful cover. As this definately represents a large rock the height is less important than the width, so long as it is tall enough to depict what it is it doesnt matter if its tapering to points or otherwise wont fully conceal a titan or flyer. If the terrain represents a mesa then true
LOS or not a titan or tank can have plenty of room to hide.
Generic pieces: Now add specific pieces for your various games. Any
GW terrain pieces et al, based/coloured to fit in with the gameboard as appropriate. You will find however no matter how many 'professional' genre relevant game pieces you make it will still differ from the generic terrain. So I suggestg you also make a few small pieces of generic terrain like a little ridge, mini lake copse etc with scale and genre references build in. A copse of two or three trees isnt much, but it can be based exactly like the woods pieces, paring the gap in the middle. add a warhammer signpost and a broken wheel and you instantly turn all the generic terrain pierces into 'warhammer'. Likeise something generic with a broken aquial on it is good generic
40K. Something for Epic, Inner Sphere , various historical you do etc. The more you do the more you add to your terrain, so I would keep the vignettes small if I were you to avoid drowing yourself in terrain and spoiling the carefully set advantage of one terrain set fits all.
10. Finishing off.
Here I will discuss the other gameboard face and other bits with some final tips.
Urban gameboard. Part cover the gameboard with texture paint. The texture paint is for concrete painted/drybrushed a suitable sombre dirty grey. You might prefer near black for asphalt instead. Keep squares of the cloth untextures and concreeted over, ink and drybrush a deep brown for wasteland/mud. Add buildings and craters to taste. This will likely scale the buildings, but need not add genre unless you aquila it up. Keep it generic and one day your streetscape might turn from a world of the Imperium to Stalingrad or something. You never know what you might need later.
Cool tip: If you want to have a land and sea side you can avoid the 'need' for an urban gameboard.You can still have a pseudo cityfight with rock spires and suitable concealing terrain provided in the generic mix above. Its not the same as urban but tactically can play nearly the same. Rock spires if plentiful enough can provide the disparancy between heavy terrain hiding big things interspersed with channels with no cover whatsoever, very similar to a street battle in effect, and you can still add real ruibnas to a wilderness, just add a generic gameboard base rather than an urban base and add weed to the building elements to show old ruins from a 'lost town'. Note that any buildings will of course add scale and genre so the ruins are strictly add ons.
Space gameboard. Black nylon with drybrush background nebulae in purple if you like and white dot stars. There is an excellent tutorial on this in the old
BFG rulebook which is free download from
GW. You might want a non cloth cover for a space gameboard side, adjust above advice to fit. I still recommend a reinforcing layer of nylon before adding plain wallpaper or something and painting your starmap.
Sea gameboard. You will want a cloth rather than flat cover for the sea gameboard as cloth has texture that is easily drybrushed into waves. The trick here is to drybrush the seascape in one direction only not any which way to get an even wave effect. Practice for yourself to see what I mean. Try a very thin coat of medium blue over dark blue, do cover this in all directions, you want a thin even medium blue layer. Make the wave effect with off-white with a slight hint of blue.
Another cool tip: Want a space gameboard and a sea gameboard? Then make up the space gameboard because it requires a different texture surface, then make up a sea gameboard as above as a loose cover. Do paint it elsewhere! Sew elastic into the edges som its covers like a slip on quilt cover. Instant ocean! Add islands to taste.
Urban overlays. Ok, how to describe this. Imagine you want to use the excellent
40K craters, broken aquila etc on a 'virgin' non shell splattered generic grass or deserty gameboard as described aboe in section 9. Get some small lino floor tiles, and use them as concrete footing slabs for some further development. Anyone who played the old
RTS series based on Dune will know what I mean. Place the lino tiles on a backing sheet of plasticard in 'tetris' shaped blocks of three to five tiles. They should slot onto each other naturally to provide cover over the surface. Some of the tiles should be broken or chipped, any exposed undersurface should be clothed and drybrushed in the generic gameboard colours. Do not however offset any tiles unless you don't mind them not fitting with other tile pieces. Also, and here is what makes it work. Break up tiles or sets of tiles to allow for the
GW crater pieces to fit underneath poking through. Its important for quality for the craters not to neatly smash individual tiles but cause breaks in parts of several tiles so that when you add tile sections together you get a network of tiles some whole some slashed and all depicting an urban overlay.
Because you have covered a portion of the gameboard with a concrete slab overlay you can have urban terrain set to fit directly on it. You might glue ruin pierces to their own individual tiles to slot in with the rest, or just place building components over the tile mat.
I recommend you think about what type of building goes with a concrete tileset. Hastily produced fortresses or bases, especially mining bases make the most sense, though prefadb cities are possible. Unless are your building terrain is distinctively
40k add any space marine statues or aquilas to their own individual tiles to add to the mix so you can
de-
40K it is you want to.
Also considering adding to the tiles themselves. Pipefarms are a good idea for tilesets. You can have pipes appear and disappear from the ground to indicate that pipes run just beneath he slabs. Consider cutting a round hole in a one tile and have lots of pipes snake towards it and disappear into it. Cover it with a grill if you can and paint the bottom black rather than the generic colour. Now you have a minehead and a lot of flavour for your whole installation giving a visual clue as to what is going on. craters of your can intersect pipes leaving broken piping to add to the craters, perhaps resulting in some of the craters filled with green goo and some drips from a pipe end.
Ot you can show exposed wires and sup piping from the broken pipes. These urban overlays if done nicely can really add up to tell a story, while being large scale terrain elements they dont add up to take a lot of space in storage and fit directly onto your generic gameboard.
Yet another cool tip: While this will add to the expense consider covering at least some of the tiles with thin but dense wire mesh, taken from cheap splatter guards or other sources, add edging some of the tiles and elevating the tiles on small spacers. Now the entire overlay consists of concrete surface tiles and elecated metal surface walkways. add small ramps directly onto the elevated tiles for people and vehicles to m ove on and off. It should add to the visual quality immensely, though i never got around to that myself.
Really really cool tip: This works best with a full set of metal walkways but you could make do with the metal slabs. add the urban overlays not only to a generic gameboard but alternatively to a space gameboard as described above with space and stars etc as the floor. While very much a physics lite battlefield option any Starcraft players will feel well at home. Models with some exceptions (?assault marines?) cannot move to any from the tiles except by a flyer. All tiles should still be interconnected so ordinary troops can get anywhere, though it may involve walking the long way around. Guardsmen et al who walk off the tiles end up floating in outer space with all attendant hazards. This is instant death to nearly all models, and problematic for many of the exceptions. Things on the tiles however behave normally and can fire at other tiles even if there is space between. The real reason I wanted to do metalised rather than concrete tiles was so that I could do Starcraftesque
40K space assault scenarios as described above. Want to steal my thunder and build it before I do?.
Envisioning Concrete urban overlays. Piccie from Dune 2.
Ice scapes. These are popular as they are a no nonsense terrain scape, anything can get snow covered and it means the terrain, the gameboard and the miniatures get a generally matt white cover with add bits of difference. If you want to go that route great, you can also make an icescape base gameboard with a slip on cover just like with a seascape.
11. Other missing themes.
Like lavascapes, odd coloured lands etc. These I do not recommend. If you want a lavascape or something really specific make a board special. This is one of those things you wioll probably profit from a asculpted board for. also consider a specific
40K urban or wasteland terrainscape, or a trench warfare (I would keep this one swappable between
40K and World War One). Genre and scale specific sculpted boards with depth and elevation are fantastic, but have thier own disadvantages compared to carefully chosen generic terrain and are beyond the scope of this article.
All done here. I will post now as a reply (before I accidently lose it). Then clean it up for an article later.
8000, mostly painted
14000, all over the place 
