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Made in us
Been Around the Block






Been struggling with this for a week and then realized I probably have a pretty good resource here to ask...

How do I achieve that corroded/darkened look around the rivets and used in shading some of the armor trim on these?
[Thumb - image.jpg]

[Thumb - image.jpg]

This message was edited 6 times. Last update was at 2013/12/15 05:51:56


 
   
Made in us
Squishy Oil Squig




Hey to get this effect you are going to want to base the area in the darkest color you plan on using. Then they washed the entire area with agrax earth shade to further darken the shaded areas. Next go back over the area with you base color, leaving the areas around rivets and in recesses shaded. Then, pick a layer color which is one shade lighter and highlight the area further. Finally, they used an edge highlight of an even lighter layer color which they also used to highlight the rivets. Hope this helps.
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Watch this video:



Towards the end, there is an explanation of how to get the effect you are after.

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Made in gb
Brigadier General





The new Sick Man of Europe

It looks like they airbrushed Doombull Brown in the shaded area.

DC:90+S+G++MB++I--Pww211+D++A++/fWD390R++T(F)DM+
 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Florida

Vallejo Old Gold > gloss varnish > brown/black oil or ink wash > 1st highlight Vallejo Gold > 2nd highlight Vallejo Silver

All these Vallejos are alcohol based, and the best metallics in the market. Dont cut corners, get them 3.

Imperial Guard  
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






 Chootum wrote:
Vallejo Old Gold > gloss varnish > brown/black oil or ink wash > 1st highlight Vallejo Gold > 2nd highlight Vallejo Silver

All these Vallejos are alcohol based, and the best metallics in the market. Dont cut corners, get them 3.


Definitely appreciate all the help folks...

So I've been using Gehenna's Gold, then Agrax, then highlighting up from there but the Agrax never seems to fully "stain" the flat areas that darkly...

Oil wash seems like it may present the best alternative, I haven't worked much with oil washes since my FLGS only carries Citadel. How much such it differ in viscosity/adherence from the GW inks?
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Colorado

If I am not mistaken with a oil wash you would need to varnish before you do any painting as it is not permanent and can affect whatever you paint over it as it will re-wet. But in a lot of youtube videos I have watched if you gloss>oil wash>cleanup with mineral spirits on q-tips>matt varnish to seal it all in then it is a superior way to do shading I think.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





The 2nd one looks like it is a gold metallic basecoat, a heavy but well controlled black wash, then an edge highlight with a light gold metallic. You can see most the surface of the 2nd one is actually quite dull, that's how a metallic looks after it's been washed with a matte wash like most GW washes.

The 1st one is brighter, so it looks like they've brought some of the shine back by going back over the model with a gold after doing the wash. How they did this, I don't know, whatever they did, they did it very seamlessly. Almost feel like they might have airbrushed gold back on to the model to bring back the shine before doing the edge highlight.

Another thing you can do to get a similar effect, do a gold basecoat, heavy black wash for shading (or dark brown, darker than Agrax though), then an edge highlight, then use a brush with a watered down gloss varnish to bring back some of the shine that the wash took away. You have to use the correct amount of varnish though, too much and it'll look wet, you actually want more varnish on the raised surfaces than in the crevices (which is the opposite of what happens when you brush on a varnish, it naturally wants to go in to the crevices more, so it takes a bit of control to get it to look right).

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/12/16 02:50:02


 
   
 
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