Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hello all,

I am posting pictures of a WIP Urban Residential Building. It is a 2-3 story ruined building that can be glued, or possibly magnetized.

This is my first building thread, feel free to ask questions and add comments as it goes. Thanks for checking it out:

The objective of this project is to make an interesting, ruined, multi-part building that can be molded, added too and modified for use on our gaming table. The building pictured below is the proof of concept, to see if I want to invest more time and energy into the concept.

The main problem I find with creating buildings is the need to make all window and door openings individually, so I started this project by creating window and door openings designed to fit into the openings in the walls and then molding and casting them, pictures to follow.

I do have access to a laser cutter and I plan to take full advantage of it. However, the molding process is the same regardless of how the original item is made. If there is enough interest, I can post more detailed pictures of the mold making process.

Thanks again for looking at my project and please feel free to comment and question the process and techniques.

Hello again,

After the window molds worked out, I decided to make additional architectural details and mold those as well, doors and corner details, etc.

Then I began gluing them to the walls, made of Gator Board, which is very similar to Foam Core. The main difference is that Gator Board uses thin layers of rigid material with a foam layer in between. The benefit is that you can easily crack the Gator Board to help make the walls/floors look destroyed. It is more difficult to get than Foam Core, but worth it if I decide to make molds.

I want to be able to take the walls apart, for storage or shipping, so I am looking into magnetizing the corner pieces and floors.

I use a "Light Modelling Paste" to add a light texture to the exterior of the building. This will allow for easier drybrushing when it is ready for paint. I think I will keep the interior a bit more smooth, or even add a lathe and plaster look. The edges of the Gator Board were filled in using a combination of Green Stuff and/or baking soda and thin super glue.

Looking really good, mate! I for one would love to see more pictures of your mould-making process. I'm a bit of a casting geek myself, and always keen to see if someone else uses different techniques!

Great idea on making a mold for the windows and casting them.

I think that I might need to steal this idea for my own buildings because my windows look terrible.

How long about did it take you to make those? Like from making the original window and casting it?

Turalon,
Feel free to steal the idea. That is why I am posting this project. Building terrain has always been a passion for me, I tend to invest more time into the table than painting my armies.
I would guess that I spent about 2 hours from cutting out the individual parts, gluing them together and priming/sanding. The mold took about an hour to add the tape parting line and suspend in the box, before pouring. I do not have any in progress pictures of the window moldmaking process, however, I will document the next mold I make, which should be next week, or perhaps the following, depending on the holiday schedule.

Chilledmonkeybrains,
I would be happy to add photos of my moldmaking process as stated above. I like using translucent silicone, so I can see the part, in case it has any bubbles. I use that type of silicone with the historical replicas I make, so I have it around the Shop. This type of silicone is best used with a vacuum to remove bubbles.
I will get a more detailed description of the moldmaking process posted here with pictures as soon as possible.

Thanks again for the interest.

werkshop wrote:

Chilledmonkeybrains,
I would be happy to add photos of my moldmaking process as stated above. I like using translucent silicone, so I can see the part, in case it has any bubbles. I use that type of silicone with the historical replicas I make, so I have it around the Shop. This type of silicone is best used with a vacuum to remove bubbles.
I will get a more detailed description of the moldmaking process posted here with pictures as soon as possible.

Thanks again for the interest.

Yeah, that's exactly the type of RTV silicone I use, for exactly the reasons you give. Sadly I don't have access to a vacuum machine at the moment, so de-gassing is not currently an option (hence mould-making and casting being on hold for me at the moment). I'm sculpting/converting some Mechanicum skitarii at the moment and I want to cast them to increase production for my army. I'm gonna see if my old company mind me coming along one weekend to use their facilities…

chilledmonkeybrains,

Not having a vacuum pump can be a problem with silicone, there really is no substitute. If you are allowed to use the one at your old company that would be the way to go. Before I saved up for mine, I was mixing the silicone and poking a small hole into the cup that let a small trickle of silicone pour out, it had surprisingly good results. If I used clear silicone with a long work time, I could nearly eliminate all of the bubbles. The other option is to try out the Mold Star line of silicones from Smooth On. They feature a very low viscosity, decent work times and a fast cure time. If I carefully mixed the silicone and did not whip too many bubbles into the mix, then used the "small hole in cup method", the results were pretty good. Even with a vacuum pump, I still use the Mold Star products from time to time, they work even better under a vacuum. The main drawback is that the silicone is opaque, but it has not caused many problems, due to the low viscosity.

The holidays have made my posts slower than normal.

Finally got a chance to sit down and make/post more work.

I hope to pour some silicone tomorrow, with some 1:1 scale ordnance replicas I am working on.

Gray primer really makes it easier to see the detail that I missed when it was unpainted, or painted black.

Now onto the mold...

Very well executed. Keep up the good work

Oh my goodness that building looks awesome. I want it to play dust warfare on, would look perfect. Exclnt work!!!

Here are a few shots of the interior window, prior to the mold walls being added. I like to pour small molds like this in one pour. So what I do is add tape to the perimeter and color the edges with a Sharpie marker. This gives me a place to aim for when I am cutting the mold open (more detailed shots will follow later). I suspend the piece on thin brass/steel rod and suspend it the middle of the cavity. Once the walls are glued in place, I pour the silicone and cut it out the next day. Add some gates and it is ready to start cycling.

The wall mold seems like a better candidate for a two part mold. I made an MDF box to make a rigid shell, then I placed the original into one side of the box and began to clay around it, as I imagine many of you have seen before. Much more time consuming than a monolithic pour, but it is good for making mold masters from.

Hope to add pictures of the silicone pour in the next 24 hours or so.

Happy holidays all.
Almost finished with the molds for the walls.
Need to mold the floors and small walls, but I suspect there will be some resolution by the weekend.
This has turned into a slightly larger project than anticipated. When I am finished there should be:
2 different destroyed wall pieces
2 different floor sections
2 different destroyed short wall sections
1-3 small piles of rubble, to help tie everything together

Thanks for looking and comments are always welcome...

any more updates???? this is great work :-)

This is looking great don't stop

Hey all,
Thanks for the encouragement, the terrible weather and busy schedule have conspired to sap my motivation.

Finally got a chance to cast some of the molded pieces. The walls turned out well and I am finishing up the floors this weekend.

The walls cast reasonably well with a little baby powder and a pressure pot. I need to add a couple of gates to help eliminate trapped air. Other than that, I hope to start making more as the other pieces of this building are finished. Next week I plan to work on finishing and posting the corner piece to tie the wall sections together, a rubble pile and 1-2 back walls of the building (destroyed half walls).

This might even get finished to add to the Necromunda game our group just started playing.

Thanks for looking...

Awesome work!

these are amazing. its tempting me to try it myself!!

Very impressive sir, i salute you!

This is excellent, I'm very much impressed! I wasn't expecting much when I saw the slats of board, but once I saw all the resin detailing bits I was 100% on board.

Its been a busy couple of weeks, on this project and with everything else.

Thanks for all of the feedback!

I finally finished casting the two floor sections and have begun the two mostly destroyed walls.

I cannot wait to get the last remaining pieces into silicone and paint the finished thing.
Thanks again,
More pictures to follow, when I get more finished...

Hello again,

Finally had a chance to put one of the 90% cast buildings on our gaming table.

It has a 5.5" x 5.5" footprint and is 6.5" high. It looks smaller than expected, but it is next to a 3 story building with a roughly 18"x 15" foot print that is approximately 16"-18" tall.

I think it will fit well on the table once it is based and painted. Can't wait to open that can of worms, so many paint options...

Thanks for looking and commenting.

Project Wrap Up:

Here is the final mold, followed by some rough shots of the assembled building.
It was an enjoyable experiment and I am fairly pleased with how it turned out. I plan to paint one up and post shortly.
Thanks again for all the encouragement...

Project Wrap Up:
Final Pictures...

I painted up the finished product and have decided to post castings for sale on ebay to help offset the cost of casting the ones we will use on our gaming table:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=201029026107

I hope this does not violate any posting rules. If so, I can take the link down.

Thanks again for the encouragement and suggestions.

Hope to see everyone again soon with another project.

Looking great.
My only 'criticism' would be to suggest that you make the walls whole then you could do buildings of any size.
Once cast you then hit them with a hammer to create the ruined wall & have bits left over for the rubble.
That way no 2 buildings will look the same.
Still they do look great & once I get my mojo back I might try to do something similar - got to use my Architecture degree for something other than drawing crappy houses!!

wow, you did an amazing job. This actually looks about 100 times better then the terrain that you can get from GW.
I have a question about molding though, if I wanted to get into it and try to do some of this
myself, where should I start? Where can I get starting with a "starter molding/casting kit"
if there is even such thing?
It looks like you do this as a major hobby or even a living (based on the background of
your pics, I see blown up building models all over) so of course I know I won't be able to make anything as extensive
or good as yours, but is this a possibility for people who just want to make their own terrain? Or is it too expensive to
get all the materials you need.

Bubber,
Thanks, I agree with your "critisism", my gaming group suggested this as well. This started out as a test piece, to see if I wanted to continue making this type of building. It got much more detailed than I had anticipated. The reason I did not make an undamaged wall section and then destroy it was that I know how the Gator Board reacts and that was the look I wanted. However, I am thinking about making an un-ruined piece or two, that would allow people to destroy the walls to their liking. My gaming group is interested in that option as well. Thanks for the suggestion, it is the next thing I am going to do with this project.
I almost went into architecture, much respect to you for sticking it out through school, I went with the art degree instead... It can be tough to get your mojo back, I have been in slumps before, I have always found that projects for the gaming table, or backyard projects for the kids help get me back on track.

Gosick,
Thanks for the compliment. I hope that my enjoyment for making these items shows in the final result.
The easiest way to start would be to find a local company that sells resin and silicone type products. I recommend Smooth-On (to whom I have no affiliation, other than buying gallons and gallons of their material). They are a good source for materials and information, plus they sell smaller sample size kits which can allow you to test out different products without investing in gallons of material. Other vendors I work with do not offer that type of option, they prefer industrial clients and do not bother with smaller quantities.
http://www.smooth-on.com/
They offer small starter kits for $50 and up.
I recommend the 300 series of resins, they are inexpensive and flow well. Mold Star, Rebound and Mold Max Stroke silicones are good if you do not have access to vacuum chambers and pressure pots.
Yes, I make molds and resin castings as a side business, for the extra income, so I have been slowly acquiring the tools that make casting and moldmaking easier. But it is something that can be done in a garage or basement, using several techniques to make up for not having a vacuum chamber or pressure pot. Dusting your molds with baby powder is critical if you are not using a pressure pot. I imagine there are plenty of threads about moldmaking and casting here on Dakka Dakka, but I am happy to add my 2 cents worth if you have questions.
The main thing I like to mention to people when they begin moldmaking and casting is to make the best original piece you can. The silicone will copy all details, including fingerprints. The resin will pick up all of the details in the silicone and that will be the piece you are left with.

Thanks again for the suggestions and encouragement. I hope to start a tutorial on either large scale 28mm buildings (4+ stories and a large footprint), or perhaps techniques for low tech moldmaking.
Please let me know what you think and I will get working on my first tutorial.
Take care...

Dude, thank you SO much. I've been digging around for a decent silicone/PU-vendor and smooth-on has their distributor here. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find something here. The hobby shops don't have it, the local home depots don't have it, the art stores don't have it, no one freaking has it.

Any tuts on moldmaking and casting are highly appreciated (by me), but the board administration is not too fond of it to avoid any legal problems with model recasting issues.

Try browsing:
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/EdgeImpactShop/category.php?Category=9&Content=Mouldmaking++
They do books as well, such as:
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/EdgeImpactShop/product.php?Product=53&Content=Silicone+Rubber+Booklet+Books+%26+Videos+Technical+Booklets++Cold+Cure+Silicone+Rubber+for+Mould+MakingCovering+the+various+types+of+silicone+rubbers%2C+and+how+they+are+used.+Includes+block+moulds%2C+skin+
for only £2.50

Excellent skills, sir!

 bubber wrote:
Try browsing:
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/EdgeImpactShop/category.php?Category=9&Content=Mouldmaking++
They do books as well, such as:
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/EdgeImpactShop/product.php?Product=53&Content=Silicone+Rubber+Booklet+Books+%26+Videos+Technical+Booklets++Cold+Cure+Silicone+Rubber+for+Mould+MakingCovering+the+various+types+of+silicone+rubbers%2C+and+how+they+are+used.+Includes+block+moulds%2C+skin+
for only £2.50

If you were refering to my post: well, I kind of hoped to get stuff like this from a local store without having to pay

a) international shipment
b) conversion fee for Eur --> Gbp

But thank you anyways. If I can't get my hands on the stuff, I'll rather be ordering from UK than from US (shorter delivery time and prices are often better too).