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2014/05/05 19:19:43
Subject: Sternguard templerish marine (now with updates and a 2 more complete)
So im not a pro but any tips on how to make this model that little bit more special and improve it.
rest of squad il add once i slowly but carefully get them painted.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/11 18:41:43
Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.
"May the odds be ever in your favour"
Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.
FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.
That looks really good as it is, thing should be asking is "what can't I add" lol
DarkMistro For my work & other source of 40K showing in game and models : https://www.youtube.com/user/DivisionZeroWoWAlive Aiming to become Commissioned Painter, do please feel free to ask me about possible painting commissions and helping hands
Oddly enough this IS well done for "Block Painting".
I would suggest two things:
1) Try washes on your "high texture" areas like the eagle up top (red or brown) and on the loin cloth (blue or black), flesh wash or sepia for the red. Stuff like those really pick-up washes well. Other note: they also work better by "drybrushing" than edging to highlight raised edges.
2) Try "edging" the most raised edges with a slightly lighter color that was block painted: black use 2 to 1 with grey, grey 2 to 1 with white, etc...
<edit> I did a very similar scheme for chaos space marines: black legion and they always looked a little "busy" (as noted by others) so the washes tone things down and cover the wobbles of uneven painted surfaces and the highlights draw attention only on what you want to stand out. I tended to add a shine to the exhausts on the back and a bright highlighted red to the guns.
Good luck! good to see!
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/05 20:36:00
A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte
Well that's a complement, must of taken 5+ hours on and off over the weekend and bank holiday.
I'll try a careful wash on the details like the eagle, given my lack of experience in those matters m going to read lightly as it where.
Automatically Appended Next Post: My main element of force is more simple, I just went all out on sterguard as kit is detailed, and I wanted them to stand out somewhat and try and push skills.
I know there bright, n the flash does not help that effect though.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/05/05 20:42:40
Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.
"May the odds be ever in your favour"
Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.
FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.
jhe90 wrote: Well that's a complement, must of taken 5+ hours on and off over the weekend and bank holiday.
This does happen, people forget their first starting out.
It is a VERY busy model that has a great deal of gear so it is a challenge to take-on, people think black is the "lazy" army color but no; the contrast is brutal if not carefully done.
I started painting a squad at a time and saved the character models for later.
When I finished painting my third squad of ten you could see the improvements, I wanted to paint my first 10 over again... but that is the way of madness.
I find what you did hard which is the block painting, the fussy highlighting and washes is what makes it all look nice and not quite so "raw".
You have a model there 2/3rds done and will be amazing with a few touches.
There are a few good tutorials out there for BT that are helpful, check them out...
Here is a picture of a few models from a couple years back from me:
This was before I got into using washes so you will have an easier time of it getting good at this.
I am better now but there are many FAR better than I, I just hope you can get it so a normal trouper does not take 5 hours!
A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte
I have improved a lot, I have some old models, a captain and there a real contrast! I'm embarrassed to post that lol
The basic tac marines are much easier as they don't,t have all the pyurity seals etc and gear is far more ornate. I don't,t mind the 5 hours it took, some things worth doing right.
Very nice black templers, like your twist on them with the parchment colour and detail. And that rhino looks different, your own modification on classic design,?
Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.
"May the odds be ever in your favour"
Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.
FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.
jhe90 wrote: I have improved a lot, I have some old models, a captain and there a real contrast! I'm embarrassed to post that lol The basic tac marines are much easier as they don't,t have all the pyurity seals etc and gear is far more ornate. I don't,t mind the 5 hours it took, some things worth doing right.
Very nice black templers, like your twist on them with the parchment colour and detail. And that rhino looks different, your own modification on classic design,?
Thanks for the compliment, I find with black you must do some edging in the areas you figure the light would catch so it is not a black blob.
I still have chaos models I had first painted, we could have a war on which models were the most ghastly in technique, conversion and painting.
Keeping them around help me keep from spouting off when someone shows me their painted model done in enamel paints...
The parchment I wanted to make some elements look older so that choice made it easier but the shoulder pads must be eye gouging white.
That tank is an original Whirlwind with the metal tubes, I added the old krack missile housings on the outside to "protect" the tubes and act as an "in-between" model of the newer boxy looking whirlwind launchers since my model collection literally spans decades.
A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte
Rare find, I have a rougue trader era tactical sqaud and terminaitor from 1989 though, old metal inquisitor + apochery.
Most gained free from charity shops :-)
Oh I could post the epiomy of awful, badly painted, glue bulges, layers not quite covering, the captain of the first company of awfulness!
My shoulder pads are on main force are the classic white, gold on officers for bling factor, but that's just for id purposes and easy rank marking.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Thank you for advice, I've not been painting that long n are not that experienced as yet so always trying to learn a bit here and there.
Nice to do something well.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/05/05 21:30:19
Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.
"May the odds be ever in your favour"
Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.
FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.
Okay, now I feel obligated to help on stuff I learned the hard way: take em or leave em.
(Man I ramble-on)
Spoiler:
- Mold lines, get them off, line at top and sides of helmet, sides of legs, top of backpack, on round vents, along top of bolter at the very least. This is more important than I can say, hands-down mold lines seen after priming become a mental condition that has no cure other than more care.
- Run a file (disposable nail files work good) across the model base to rough it up. Had glued on base peel off before, washing plastic not a bad idea to get mold release off.
- Your choice at this point: keep the bolter off and the shoulder pads but assemble everything else (some do backpack).
- Drilling bolters look cool, use a pin to mark the center first before you use a tiny drill in a pin vice (I think you need a 1/16" bit for barrel and 1/32" for the side vent).
- Normal white glue and a mix of varied sand/fine gravel for the base.
- I prime the guns red, the shoulder pads white and backpacks grey and the rest of the guy black.
- Shake that can, do it again, make sure you had it in the house where it is a nice room temperature as well.
- Prime about 8" away and make sure no long strings of models: farther away = furry marines: the paint partially dries and then sticks as a ball of paint to the model.
- Paint coverage should just barely cover, less is more. If you really must get good coverage go away and do something for around 10 minutes and give it another light spray.
- Whatever looks good to you apply a watered down 4 part black with 1 part white (or grey) where your main black model looks just slightly grey. The reason is that when the model is completely black you cannot go any further with washes to darken details and crevices. Just trying to get a nice smooth looking model... with no visible mold lines...
- Any thoughts on base color? I use Sepia not quite desert and not quite muddy earth to off-set the model, I found city pavement colors were not as striking.
- Reds: Start a little darker "gore-red" or the more wine colored is a start, then edge with a true "blood red" then wash with a darker red, edge a little bit in the most raised areas and I tended to add a dab of "blazing orange" on corners only.
- Black: Highlight with "shadow grey" wash with the good old "Badab Black" and re-highlight the more raised areas with "shadow grey" again and then "fortress grey" dab in corners or sharp edges.
- You may see a pattern here... you will get a gradient that is about 4 colors or slightly more with the blending while trying to keep the work to a minimum. Strongly suggest assembly line method with a squad of 10 at a time.
- Metalics: Use separate brush and water always or the flakes find their way into things you would not want to have shining. Think how hard it is to get the bits off when someone wearing glitter gives you a hug.
- Look in a dollar store for mixing sticks, cups and things.
- Later-on look up "flow-aid" and "mixing medium" for added properties for painting.
- I would suggest looking into an air-brush at some point, it is rather distressing how good it is after building up brush skills.
There is so much more in videos on the net that is silly for me to try listing it all but it at least shows a map or plan of each stage is laid out.
It really is figuring out how much work you want to do where the end result is good enough for the time spent.
Now at some point I have to fix all those bases painted "Snot Green" when we thought all wars were fought on golf greens...
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/06 18:43:26
A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte
I'll ytake it all in mind, I know about washing but not had too many peobnle s with plastic vs some resin, that was a true pain to do if not washed first!
Automatically Appended Next Post: Lol, well you never know a chaos invasion of the emperors define golfing planet, its shrines to whole in ones and rituals to banish a bogey :-)
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/10 10:42:03
Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.
"May the odds be ever in your favour"
Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.
FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.
Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.
"May the odds be ever in your favour"
Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.
FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.
2014/05/12 13:55:36
Subject: Re:Sternguard templerish marine (now with updates and a 2 more complete)
Couple touch-up suggestions (or what I would do if those models were mine...)
Please take with a grain of salt since pictures like these may not show fully all the details.
1a) The gold/brass bits could probably use another "flesh wash" or "sepia (brown/red)", some of the detail got good shading but not all of them.
1b) Use a tiny bit of silver to edge highlight the "top" areas that would catch the sun like the top of wings and heads of the Aquila. Just lightly touch with the side of the brush with most of the paint removed (a bit like dry brushing).
2) The loin cloth: for those sharp edges sticking the most out add a lighter grey and edge highlight. Usually if you edge highlight, then wash, you need to highlight again but to a finer line.
3) The red on the top of the head needs a bit more "pop", line highlight of a brighter red (or red-orange) of upper edges would be ideal.
I find I struggle with trying to get those metallic bits to have their edges "sharp" where they transition from metal to non-metallic paint. I have sometimes cheated by using ink pens to make a line between the two or keep adding those special washes to fill-in those borders. I have found when you try to paint a raised surface you can easily see anywhere the metallic paint curled around off the edge so touch-up is critical to prevent it from looking blobby.
Again, it is easy to see hordes of ways to add to a model so it is up to you on where to draw the line.
A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte
2014/05/18 17:17:19
Subject: Sternguard templerish marine (now with updates and a 2 more complete)
I'll try some of those suggestions, sorry thread got lost in the great sea of dakka!
Yes true the wash could do with more but did not want to over do after all the work I put into them.
The red, well I'm not got best paint collection so try best but not so easy.
I tried several ways from layers to thick paint but never could get a perfect layer on metallic gold. I chose to stick with though as made them stand out from my tactical etc.
IS easy as camera shows 1000 flaws at inch's, not normal gaming feet min.
Though on what learned I'm now redoing my HQ or 2 so it certainly ewas worth it :-)
Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.
"May the odds be ever in your favour"
Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.
FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.